Overview
Lough Eighter is the lowest of the three lakes in the Coomloughra Horseshoe, the ridge walk that strings together Ireland’s three highest peaks – Carrauntoohil, Beenkeragh and Caher. Most walkers barely stop at the lake itself; they pass its dam on the way up and again on the way down. The dam, though, is worth the walk on its own.
If you’re not committing to the full horseshoe – and it is a serious mountain day – the climb to the dam at the lake’s western end gives you the best of the view for a fraction of the effort. From there the water drops away below and the steep cirque between Carrauntoohil and Caher rises across it. It’s a stiff pull up the concrete Hydro Track, but as an out-and-back a fit walker can manage it in a morning and turn round at the dam.
The landscape
The Coomloughra valley is a textbook U-shaped glacial trough cut into the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, the range that fills the Iveragh Peninsula. It holds three lakes: the broad Lough Coomloughra, the mid-sized Lough Acoose and little Lough Eighter. This is private farmland, and the signs at the trailhead say so; sheep graze right across the ground and often onto the path, and dogs are not allowed. The concrete track that gives the climb its steady gradient was built to serve hydroelectric works before the terrain turns wild higher up.
What to see and do
- The dam viewpoint – From the dam at Lough Eighter, look north-west across the water to the cirque separating Carrauntoohil and Caher. On a calm day the lake mirrors the peaks. It shows again from the higher ridges later in the circuit.
- Underfoot – There’s a river to cross within the first few minutes of the walk, and boggy ground to squelch through before you reach the lake, so waterproof boots earn their place even in dry weather. Above the dam the concrete gives way to grass, loose boulders and rocky scrambling.
- Mountain plants – On the higher rocks, look for St Patrick’s cabbage (Saxifraga spathularis) and sea thrift clinging to the outcrops.
- The full circuit – Lough Eighter marks the low point of the loop. From the dam the route runs clockwise up towards Skregmore, along the exposed Beenkeragh Ridge, over Carrauntoohil, across to Caher and back down to the lake and car park. It covers 12 km with about 1,300 m (4,265 ft) of ascent. Allow five to seven hours; guided operators quote it at four to five, but few casual hikers move that quickly over this ground.
Practical information
The walk starts at the Hydro Road car park, reached via Glencar. Parking is a narrow verge along the road, so arrive before 9am on summer mornings; outside the peak season it’s rarely a problem. There’s no charge, but respect the private land, keep to the paths and take everything out with you.
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Distance (loop) | 12 km (7.5 mi) |
| Estimated time | 5–7 hours |
| Total ascent | ~1,300 m (4,265 ft) |
| Difficulty | Very strenuous |
| Access | Hydro Road car park, via Glencar |
| Dogs | Not permitted |
| Fees | Free |
Navigation – The path is faint in places and fades altogether on the higher ridges. Carry a detailed map of the Reeks and a compass, and know how to use them; GPS apps help, but batteries fade fast in cold and wet. In icy, high-wind or low-visibility weather, don’t attempt the ridge at all.
Safety – The Beenkeragh Ridge, which starts shortly above the lake, is narrow and exposed. It needs no ropes or technical gear, but it does demand a head for uneven rock and the odd hand-hold, and wet slate with a sudden gust is a bad combination. If the weather turns, turn back. There are no toilets, water points or shelters at Lough Eighter, so carry enough water for the whole day.
For full route descriptions and GPS tracks, see Mountain Trails or ActiveME.
Getting there and nearby bases
Reach the car park via the N72 from Killarney, turning off towards Glencar and following signs for the Hydro Track. No public transport serves the trailhead, so most people drive or book a guided day from Killarney. The village of Beaufort, a short drive north, makes a practical base, with B&Bs, a shop for supplies and a couple of pubs to thaw out in afterwards; it’s also a starting point for shorter, less exposed walks if the weather closes the ridge.
Seasonal advice
Weather in the Reeks changes fast. The ridge is at its most forgiving from late May to early September, when the days are long and there’s little snow. Autumn brings rain, wind and shorter light; winter often needs an ice axe, crampons and the experience to use them. Check the Met Éireann mountain forecast before you set out, and don’t be too proud to turn round at the dam if the tops are in cloud – the view from there is reason enough to have come.