Caldragh Cemetery

Overview

Caldragh Cemetery sits on the banks of Lower Lough Erne on Boa Island. It is a modest 19th‑century burial ground that houses two enigmatic stone sculptures – the two‑faced Dreenan (Janus) Figure and the single‑faced Lustymore Man – set among later headstones. The site is free, open year‑round and makes a compelling stop while exploring the lakeside scenery of Boa Island.

History

The cemetery itself dates to the early Christian period (c. 400‑800 AD), although the surviving headstones are largely 19th‑ and 20th‑century. The two stone figures are far older. Stylistic analysis and limited carbon dating of associated material suggest a 1st‑century Roman‑influenced or Iron Age origin, rather than the early medieval dates once proposed. Both statues are carved from local sandstone that has weathered remarkably well.

• Dreenan (Janus) Figure – standing at about 73 cm (≈ 29 in) tall, the double‑faced stone shows wide oval eyes, open mouths and a shallow depression on the crown where visitors traditionally leave coins. Its crossed arms and belt have been linked to fertility symbolism. Scholars variously interpret it as a representation of the Roman god Janus, the Celtic war goddess Badb (after whom Boa Island is named), or a local chieftain‑type deity. The figure inspired Seamus Heaney’s poem “January God”.

• Lustymore Man – the smaller, single‑faced stone (≈ 2½ ft high) was recovered from nearby Lustymore Island and moved to Caldragh in 1939 by Lady Ernestine Hunt. Its single eye and simplified carving have led some researchers to view it as a precursor to the Sheela‑na‑gig tradition or as a female deity.

Both statues were first recorded by 19th‑century painter‑antiquarian George Victor Du Noyer and later highlighted by archaeologist Dorothy Lowry‑Corry in the 1930s. The site remains one of the few places where pre‑Christian stone art is displayed within a Christian burial ground.

Spiritual Significance

Local folklore treats Caldragh Cemetery as a “thin place” – a spot where the veil between the material world and the spirit realm feels especially thin. Visitors often comment on a subtle, lingering energy among the hazel trees and the fairy tree that marks the entrance. The Janus Figure’s dual faces are said to embody the transition between life and death, making the cemetery a quiet spot for contemplation or a brief meditation.

What to See & Do

• Examine the Janus Figure – note the two distinct expressions, the groove on the crown and the crossed‑arm pose.
• View the Lustymore Man – appreciate its weathered surface and the mystery of its single eye.
• Walk among historic headstones – the gravestones tell the story of the island’s farming families.
• Take in lakeside vistas – the cemetery is a short walk from the water’s edge, offering calm views of Lower Lough Erne and occasional LustyBeg ferry traffic.
• Photography – the contrast of ancient stone, water and sky makes for striking images, especially in the soft light of early morning or late afternoon.

Practical Information

Accessibility – The ground is uneven and overgrown in places; there are no formal paths, so the site is not wheelchair‑friendly.

Parking – A small lay‑by on the farm road near the cemetery provides limited spaces. As the lay‑by is on a working farm, park close to the edge and avoid blocking tractors.

Getting There – From Ballyshannon take the N3 to Magheraboy and Belleek, then follow the A47 (Boa Island Road) until you see the sign for Caldragh Cemetery. Turn right, continue to the end of the road and you will find the car park. The site is roughly 88 miles from Belfast and 16 miles from Enniskillen.

Nearby Attractions – While on Boa Island, consider:

• A walk to the cairn at Inishkeeragh Bridge and the island’s several raths.
• A short boat trip to Devenish Island, home to a 6th‑century monastic settlement with a round tower and several churches.
• The LustyBeg ferry that links Boa Island to the mainland – a pleasant way to see the lake.
• The National Trust properties of Castle Coole, Crom Estate and Florence Court, all within a short drive from the island.

Map Links – OpenStreetMap view | Google Maps pin

Plan your stop at Caldragh Cemetery as a quiet interlude on a day exploring the lakelands of County Fermanagh. The stone idols, the lake, and the sense of ancient myth combine for a memorable experience.