The stone figure in Caldragh graveyard on Boa Island has stood in the same spot since at least 1841, and nobody is quite sure who carved it or when. That uncertainty is much of the draw. Boa Island (Irish: Inis Badhbha) is a slender strip of land in the northern arm of Lower Lough Erne, roughly five miles long, with the A47 running its full length across two bridges to the mainland near Enniskillen. It carries a small population and working farmland, but people come for the two weathered carvings in the graveyard, free to visit and among the strangest early stone figures in Ireland. Set expectations first: this is a small, boggy burial ground down a short muddy lane, not a grand monument. Come for the oddness of the stones, not the scale.
The Stone Figures
The primary draw is the pair of sculpted stones within Caldragh graveyard, both carved from local sandstone. Their date is genuinely disputed: for years scholars placed them in the pagan Iron Age, around the 1st century AD, while more recent readings lean towards the early medieval period. Nobody has settled it, and the figures are protected as Scheduled Historic Monuments. The larger one was recorded as far back as 1841 by the antiquarian George Victor Du Noyer, but it was Dorothy Lowry-Corry who first brought it to academic attention, in 1933.
The Dreenan (the so-called Janus figure) The Dreenan figure is usually called the Janus Stone, after the two-faced Roman god – but the name is a misnomer. This is not one figure with two faces; it is two complete figures, more or less identical, placed back to back, each with its own face and torso. Both share wide, staring eyes, a straight nose and a half-open mouth, with arms crossed over the chest and a belt at the waist; an interlace design down the joined sides may represent hair. The stone stands on a base long assumed to be a later prop, but it turned out to be the figure’s own lower section – complete with carved hands – which had lain half-buried nearby before being rediscovered and reattached.
The Lustymore Man The Lustymore Man presents a simpler profile. Originally discovered on the nearby Lustymore Island within a disused graveyard, this single-faced figure was moved to Caldragh Cemetery in 1939 for preservation. The carving shows a solitary face with a straight nose and open mouth, while the arms rest on the knees. The style is less detailed than the Dreenan but shares the same rugged, expressive quality.
Caldragh Cemetery and History
Caldragh Cemetery is an active burial ground, adding a layer of solemnity to the visit. The cemetery sits on a site with deep historical roots, associated with early Christian activity in the region. The presence of these stone figures within a Christian burial ground suggests a complex layering of cultural practices, where pre-Christian symbols or early medieval art forms were integrated into sacred spaces over centuries.
Local tradition holds that visitors should leave a coin in the shallow groove atop the head of each stone. This offering is said to ensure good luck or safe passage, a practice that continues today. Visitors will often find coins lodged in the carvings, adding a tactile connection between past and present.
The island’s name, Inis Badhbha, translates to “Badhbh’s Island”, referencing the Celtic war goddess associated with the carrion crow. Beyond the cemetery, archaeological evidence points to a dense history of settlement, including the remains of ancient raths and a cairn near Inishkeeragh Bridge, though these features are less visible to the casual visitor.
The lough has darker modern history too. On 9 January 1944, an RAF Catalina flying boat came down in Lower Lough Erne near Boa Island during a bombing exercise; seven of the ten crew were killed.
Visiting Boa Island
Accessing the stone figures is a short, easy walk of about 1.5 miles out and back from the roadside on the A47. The graveyard is open to the public with no admission charge. As this is an active burial ground, keep a respectful demeanour: dogs on leads, and stay clear of recent graves and private family plots.
The drive across Boa Island gives good views of Lower Lough Erne. The A47 is a smooth route with several lay-bys where you can stop for photographs of the water and surrounding islands. The landscape is characterised by low hills and reflective waters, a tranquil backdrop for the journey. The two bridges that connect the island to the mainland offer particularly striking vantage points, framing the stone figures against the wider lough landscape.
Practical Information
- Opening Hours: The graveyard and roadside access are open year-round, with no set hours. Daylight is best for seeing the carvings clearly.
- Admission: Free entry.
- Accessibility: The approach to Caldragh Cemetery involves uneven ground and grassy paths. The terrain may be difficult for wheelchairs or pushchairs, and visitors with mobility issues should exercise caution.
- Facilities: There are no visitor centres, toilets, or refreshment points on the island. Visitors should bring water and plan accordingly.
- Getting There: Boa Island is northwest of Enniskillen. Follow the A47, crossing the first bridge onto the island. The parking is a small lay-by beside a farm gate with room for only two or three cars, and the approach path can be very muddy in wet weather, so bring suitable footwear.
Nearby Attractions
Boa Island sits within a network of heritage sites around Lower Lough Erne. After visiting the stone figures, consider exploring these nearby locations:
- Tully Castle – A remarkably preserved 17th-century tower house, often cited as one of the finest examples of its kind in Ireland.
- Castle Caldwell – A historic estate featuring extensive woodland walks and period architecture.
- Caldragh Cemetery – For detailed information on the history and maintenance of the cemetery grounds, see the dedicated page.
- Devenish Island – Accessible by ferry from Newtownbutler, this island hosts the ruins of St Molaise’s House and offers a deeper dive into early Christian monastic history.
Plan your visit to allow time for the drive across the island and a respectful pause at the cemetery. The stone figures are best viewed in natural light, which brings out the texture of the sandstone and the detail in the facial carvings. Check weather conditions before travelling, as the exposed location can be windy, and the roads are narrow in sections.