Boa Island (Irish: Inis Badhbha) occupies a prominent position in the northern arm of Lower Lough Erne, extending roughly five miles across the water. The A47 road traverses the island’s full length, crossing two bridges that link it to the mainland near Enniskillen. While the island supports a small population and working farmland, it is best known for the ancient stone figures standing in Caldragh Cemetery. These carvings offer a direct, atmospheric encounter with Ireland’s early medieval past, accessible to visitors without charge.
The Stone Figures
The primary draw for visitors is the pair of sculpted stones located within Caldragh Cemetery. Both figures are carved from local sandstone and exhibit the distinctive style of early medieval Irish art. Scholars generally attribute them to the early medieval period, though debate persists regarding whether they represent pagan idols adapted for Christian use or original Christian monuments.
The Dreenan (Janus Stone) The Dreenan, commonly referred to as the Janus Stone, is the more elaborate of the two. It features two faces carved back-to-back, each gazing in opposite directions. The faces share similar characteristics: wide, staring eyes, a straight nose, and a mouth that appears to be open or protruding a tongue. The torso is a solid square block with arms crossed over the chest and a belt carved around the waist. A later-added base now supports the stone, stabilizing it within the graveyard.
The Lustymore Man The Lustymore Man presents a simpler profile. Originally discovered on the nearby Lustymore Island within a disused graveyard, this single-faced figure was moved to Caldragh Cemetery in 1939 for preservation. The carving shows a solitary face with a straight nose and open mouth, while the arms rest on the knees. The style is less detailed than the Dreenan but shares the same rugged, expressive quality.
Caldragh Cemetery and History
Caldragh Cemetery is an active burial ground, adding a layer of solemnity to the visit. The cemetery sits on a site with deep historical roots, associated with early Christian activity in the region. The presence of these stone figures within a Christian burial ground suggests a complex layering of cultural practices, where pre-Christian symbols or early medieval art forms were integrated into sacred spaces over centuries.
Local tradition holds that visitors should leave a coin in the shallow groove atop the head of each stone. This offering is said to ensure good luck or safe passage, a practice that continues today. Visitors will often find coins lodged in the carvings, adding a tactile connection between past and present.
The island’s name, Inis Badhbha, translates to “Badhbh’s Island”, referencing the Celtic war goddess associated with the carrion crow. This mythological link underscores the island’s long-standing significance in the local landscape. Beyond the cemetery, archaeological evidence points to a dense history of settlement, including the remains of ancient raths and a cairn near Inishkeeragh Bridge, though these features are less visible to the casual visitor.
Visiting Boa Island
Accessing the stone figures requires a short walk from the A47 road. The cemetery is open to the public, and there is no admission charge. However, as this is an active graveyard, visitors are expected to maintain a respectful demeanor. Dogs should be kept on leads, and visitors should stay clear of recent graves and private family plots.
The drive across Boa Island offers scenic views of Lower Lough Erne. The A47 provides a smooth route with several lay-bys where drivers can stop to take photographs of the water and surrounding islands. The landscape is characterized by low hills and reflective waters, creating a tranquil backdrop for the journey. The two bridges that connect the island to the mainland offer particularly striking vantage points, framing the stone figures against the wider lough landscape.
Practical Information
- Opening Hours: The cemetery and roadside access are available year-round, during daylight hours.
- Admission: Free entry.
- Accessibility: The approach to Caldragh Cemetery involves uneven ground and grassy paths. The terrain may be difficult for wheelchairs or pushchairs, and visitors with mobility issues should exercise caution.
- Facilities: There are no visitor centres, toilets, or refreshment points on the island. Visitors should bring water and plan accordingly.
- Getting There: Boa Island is located northwest of Enniskillen. Follow the A47 from Enniskillen, crossing the first bridge onto the island. Caldragh Cemetery is situated along the A47, clearly visible from the road with a small parking lay-by.
Nearby Attractions
Boa Island sits within a network of heritage sites around Lower Lough Erne. After visiting the stone figures, consider exploring these nearby locations:
- Tully Castle – A remarkably preserved 17th-century tower house, often cited as one of the finest examples of its kind in Ireland.
- Castle Caldwell – A historic estate featuring extensive woodland walks and period architecture.
- Caldragh Cemetery – For detailed information on the history and maintenance of the cemetery grounds, see the dedicated page.
- Devenish Island – Accessible by ferry from Newtownbutler, this island hosts the ruins of St Molaise’s House and offers a deeper dive into early Christian monastic history.
Plan your visit to allow time for the drive across the island and a respectful pause at the cemetery. The stone figures are best viewed in natural light, which brings out the texture of the sandstone and the detail in the facial carvings. Check weather conditions before travelling, as the exposed location can be windy, and the roads are narrow in sections.