Overview
Lough Erne is not one lake but two: the Upper (confusingly, the southern one) and the Lower (the northern), linked by the River Erne as it runs north towards the Atlantic. Together they hold around 55 square miles (140 km²) of water, threaded with more than 150 islands, sheltered bays and winding inlets – the second-largest lake system in Northern Ireland and the fourth largest on the island. The Upper Lough is shallow, averaging only a couple of metres; the Lower is deeper and more open.
The lakes form the core of the Fermanagh Lakelands UNESCO Global Geopark, known for limestone karst, drumlins and birdlife. Enniskillen, a town built on an island in the narrow channel between the two loughs, is the natural gateway: from here you can pick up a boat, head for the monastic islands, or follow the shore where water meets woodland.
If you visit one island, make it Devenish – round tower, ruined churches and a high cross, a short boat-hop from Trory jetty.
History and legend
The name Lough Erne probably traces to the ancient Érainn people, or to Érann, a mythological figure linked to Ériu, who gave Ireland its name. Local lore offers three origin stories for the lake: a drowned lady-in-waiting of Queen Méabh, a spring that burst its banks, and a battle that split the earth to form the basin.
- Early settlement – Ptolemy’s second-century map records the Menapii here, a people who became the Fir Manach and gave County Fermanagh its name.
- Monastic heritage – The islands were centres of early Irish Christianity. The Annals of Ulster were compiled on Belle Isle, and Devenish Island grew into one of the most important monasteries, founded in the sixth century by St Molaise.
- World War II – RAF Castle Archdale on the Lower Lough was a flying-boat base in the Battle of the Atlantic; crews used the ‘Donegal Corridor’, a narrow strip of neutral Irish airspace, to cut hours off the route out to the convoys.
- Modern note – The resort on the shore hosted the 2012 G8 summit.
Island highlights
The islands are the heart of the lakelands, and all of them are reached by water – regular passenger boats and hire craft run from late spring to autumn.
- Devenish Island – A round tower almost 30 m high, dating to the 12th century, stands over St Molaise’s Church, St Mary’s Abbey and a carved high cross. The grounds are free to walk, though you’ll pay for the boat across; the visitor centre generally opens Thursday to Sunday at the height of summer.
- Boa Island – Joined to the mainland by a road bridge, and known for the Caldragh cemetery with its enigmatic double-faced Janus stone and the older ‘Lustyman’ figure.
- White Island – Reached by ferry from Castle Archdale, with the remains of a 12th-century church whose wall holds a row of carved stone figures.
- Crom Estate – A National Trust nature reserve on the Upper Lough: ancient woodland, red squirrels, pine martens and marked trails. Weekends fill quickly.
Watersports and the outdoors
The sheltered water and steady breezes suit paddlers, sailors and anglers alike.
- Sailing – The long-established Lough Erne Yacht Club races out of Gublusk Bay.
- Kayaking, canoeing and paddle-boarding – Local operators hire gear and run guided trips, from gentle island-hopping to longer outings.
- Fishing – The Erne system is well known for brown and rainbow trout and pike. You’ll need a rod licence, available online, before you fish.
- Cycling – The Kingfisher Trail’s Southern Loop (227 km) and Northern Loop (155 km) run through the lakelands, crossing the water by passenger ferry.
- Boat tours and hire – Options run from the chauffeur-driven Erne Water Taxi to Erne Tours’ MV Kestrel from the Round O jetty in Enniskillen, cruiser hire from Carrick Craft at Bellanaleck, and Erne Boat Hire’s small open ‘wee red boats’. An ‘Island Discovery’ combo pairs a Marble Arch Caves tour with an Erne Water Taxi trip.
- Nearby – The Cuilcagh Boardwalk (‘Stairway to Heaven’) and the Marble Arch Caves are short drives away.
Lakeside stays and dining
The Lough Erne Resort sits on a 600-acre peninsula, with two championship golf courses, a spa and several restaurants including the Catalina. For self-catering and family stays, Rossharbour Resort, Killyhevlin Chalets and Share Discovery Village have lodges on the shoreline. Pubs and cafés in Enniskillen, Belcoo and Belleek serve local produce and lake fish.
Getting there and practical information
Getting there
- Air – Belfast International and Belfast City are the nearest hubs, about 100–110 km south; Derry/Londonderry is roughly 80 km north.
- Road – The A32 runs through Enniskillen, linking the two loughs to Dublin, Derry and Strabane.
- Public transport – Ulsterbus routes 95/95A/95C serve Enniskillen and Newtownbutler (near Crom Estate).
- Boat access – Every island needs a water transfer. Main operators include Erne Water Taxi, Erne Tours, Carrick Craft and Erne Boat Hire; fares and timetables vary by season, so check before travelling.
Parking and access
Free car parks at Trory jetty (for Devenish), Castle Archdale Country Park, Castle Caldwell Forest and Crom Estate. On peak summer weekends they fill by mid-morning, so come early. Wheelchair parking is provided at the Devenish visitor centre and Crom Estate.
On the water
The Lower Lough’s islands draw breeding Sandwich terns, lapwings and curlews to the Lower Lough Erne Islands nature reserve (RSPB), reached from Castle Caldwell Forest. The RNLI runs inland lifeboats at Gublusk and Carrybridge; wear a flotation device and check the forecast before heading out.
Nearby attractions
- Crom Castle – A 17th-century fortified house set in extensive parkland.
- Castle Archdale Country Park & War Museum – Lakeside picnic spots, a museum on the RAF base’s WWII role, and the ferry to White Island.
- Enniskillen Castle – Over the River Erne, home to the Fermanagh County Museum.
- Belleek – The pottery town, with a visitor centre and live demonstrations.
- Florence Court – A stately home and arboretum on the Upper Lough.
Boats mostly run from March to October, so plan island trips for the season and check the last sailing before you set off – on the water, the day ends earlier than you think.