Devenish Island – round tower & monastery

Overview

You can only reach Devenish by boat, and that crossing of Lower Lough Erne is half the point of the trip. The 81-foot round tower comes into view first, standing clear above a grassy island less than a mile off Enniskillen. This was the most important of Lough Erne’s many island monasteries – Daimhinis, ‘ox island’ in Irish – and for a thousand years it drew pilgrims and parishioners from both shores of the lough. The island itself is owned by the Kilravock Christian Trust; the monastic ruins are a State Care Monument looked after by the Historic Environment Division of the Department for Communities.

Landing brings you to a cluster of medieval churches, an oratory and a graveyard of carved stones, spread over open pasture that’s also protected for its breeding waders. There’s a small visitor centre with toilets and an exhibition, but no shop or café, so bring what you need. Most people spend an hour to ninety minutes here, and the round tower alone is worth the boat fare – if the ladder is open you can climb the interior to the top gallery for a view over the lough.

History & Legends

Saint Molaise (also recorded as Laisrén or Laserian) founded the monastery here in the 6th century, choosing the island for the isolation the early monastic tradition prized. It grew into a major centre of learning: accounts of its peak put the community at up to 1,500 religious scholars, though some sources say closer to 1,000. Either way, it was a working settlement of manuscripts, theology and pilgrimage, not a lone hermit’s rock.

That prominence drew raiders. Vikings struck in 837 and again in 923, and the monastery burned in 1157. The community kept rebuilding, and the transition from timber to stone is what left the ruins you see – the surviving masonry dates mainly from the 12th, 13th and 15th centuries. The dissolution of the monasteries in the 16th century finished the job, and the site was left to slow decay.

Archaeological work in 1973 uncovered the foundations of a second round tower, confirming that the settlement was once significantly larger than the visible ruins suggest. Local folklore still circulates around the island, including tales of Saint Molaise’s ability to understand birds and the “bullán” stone, a sacred rock that pilgrims once rubbed for healing. These stories remain part of the guided commentary offered by local boat operators.

What to see and do

• The Round Tower – Standing at roughly 81 feet (≈25 m), the tower is one of only a few in Ireland with a decorated cornice at the base of its cap. Four small windows face the cardinal points, each topped with a carved stone head. Visitors can climb the interior ladder to the top gallery when conditions allow, though access is sometimes restricted for safety.
• St Molaise’s House (Oratory) – The oldest standing stone structure on the island, this compact oratory was built in the 12th century. It is aligned east-northeast (80°), allowing morning sunlight to fill the interior through the doorway. The exterior features interlaced Romanesque carvings that demonstrate the technical skill of medieval Fermanagh stonemasons.
• Teampall Mór (The Great Church) – The ruined walls of this 12th-century church outline a once-substantial nave. The masonry shows clear evidence of the building’s original scale, and the grassy floor still holds the faint traces of the churchyard layout.
• St Mary’s Priory – Founded in the 15th century by the Augustinian order, the priory sits quietly in the upper section of the island. The remaining walls and cloister foundations are surrounded by open grassland, offering a peaceful spot to pause.
• High Crosses & Grave Slabs – Two intricately carved 15th-century crosses stand in the upper graveyard. Originally painted in bright colours, their weathered surfaces still display biblical scenes woven with Celtic knotwork. Several early grave slabs lie nearby, some with Ogham inscriptions.
• Visitor Centre – Located near the landing stage, the centre provides historical context through carved stone fragments, timeline displays, and a replica of the Soiscél Molaise (a medieval book shrine now housed in Dublin). Staff and volunteers can point out architectural details that are easy to miss on a first visit.

Practical Information

Getting there

Devenish is accessible only by water. Park in Enniskillen and pick up a boat from the town’s waterfront – the main operators are:

• Erne Water Taxi – guided trips from Enniskillen Castle Museums jetty – +44 (0) 77 1977 0588 – ernewatertaxi.com
• Erne Tours (MV Kestrel) – from the Round O jetty – +44 (0) 28 6632 2882 – ernetours.com
• Lady of the Lake (private tours) – +44 (0) 28 6862 2200 – manorhousecountryhotel.com/see-do/the-lady-of-the-lake

There’s also a ferry from Trory Point, run by Erne Water Taxi for the Department for Communities – but its licence is renewed year to year and it doesn’t always run, so call ahead rather than turning up at Trory expecting a boat. The visitor centre keeps to weekends only in May, June and September (to 20 September) and opens daily through July and August, so aim for the summer months if you want it staffed and the exhibition open. In June 2024 the island’s east jetty was extended by 60 metres, doubling mooring space from six vessels to twelve – useful if you’re arriving under your own power. Check the weather before booking; rough water on the open lough can delay or cancel a crossing.

Visitor Tips

• Book return tickets in advance during peak summer weekends to secure your preferred departure time.
• Wear closed, grippy shoes. The path between ruins crosses uneven flagstones and loose gravel that can be slippery after rain.
• Pack a windproof layer and sun protection. The open lake amplifies both breeze and UV exposure.
• Photography is welcome across the site. Tripod use is permitted, but keep pathways clear for other visitors.
• Accessibility – Guide dogs are permitted. The terrain is uneven and includes scattered masonry, meaning wheelchair access is limited to the main landing area and visitor centre. Visitors requiring additional assistance should contact their chosen boat operator ahead of time.

Nearby Attractions

Devenish Island fits easily into a half-day or full-day itinerary across Lower Lough Erne. Pair your visit with:

• Boa Island – Home to the striking Janus stones and other early Christian monuments. (Boa Island)
• Castle Archdale Country Park – Lakeside walking trails, water sports, and a World War II museum. (Castle Archdale Country Park & War Museum)
• Enniskillen Castle – A fortified town centre site with military and regional history displays. (Enniskillen Castle)
• Inishmacsaint – A smaller, quieter monastic island with a well-preserved church and cross slab. (Inishmacsaint)

All of these sites are reachable by the same ferry networks or a short drive from Enniskillen. If you plan to visit multiple islands, coordinate your boat bookings in advance to align departure and return times with the operators’ published schedules.