Cloghanecarhan Ringfort and Ogham Stone

Overview

Cloghanecarhan lies on the western edge of the Iveragh Peninsula, a short 7 km drive southeast of the coastal town of Cahersiveen. The monument is a state‑owned National Monument, cared for by the Office of Public Works (OPW). It sits in a low‑lying farming field, surrounded by the gentle rolling landscape that characterises this part of County Kerry. Visitors who arrive will find a compact, circular enclosure that once served as a monastic settlement rather than a defensive fort, and a striking slate ogham stone that marks the site’s early medieval heritage.

History & Background

The name Cloghanecarhan derives from the modern Irish Clóghán Cárthainn – “the stone structure of Cárthan”. Locally the site is known as Keeldarragh, a name thought to stem from Cill Darra meaning “the church of Dara” or “the church of the oak”.

Archaeological evidence points to a complex sequence of use. The central enclosure is a ringfort or cashel, but scholars now believe it functioned primarily as an early monastic site in the early medieval period. Within the ring are the foundations of a circular hut, three leachta (dry‑stone altars used for ritual), an early medieval cross slab, and the remains of a souterrain – an underground passage that would have stored food or provided refuge.

The most iconic feature is the ogham stone (catalogued as CIIC 230). Ogham is the earliest known Irish alphabet, carved by incising lines on a central stem. The stone is slate, measuring roughly 2 m long (208 × 38 × 18 cm). Its inscription, read from bottom to top, reads EQQẸGGNỊ [MA]Q̣[I] ṂẠQI‑CAṚATTỊNN, interpreted as “‘of Ec…án? son of Mac‑Cáirthinn’”. Linguistic analysis dates the carving to around AD 600, placing it firmly in the early medieval period. The stone originally stood at the east entrance of the enclosure but has been repositioned in recent years to the northern side, where it now lies horizontally on two stone supports.

The upward‑reading direction of the inscription is unusual; most Irish ogham stones are read from bottom to top, but the placement on Cloghanecarhan is one of the few where the stone itself is laid horizontally, making the reading direction more apparent to modern visitors.

What to See & Do

• The Ogham Stone – Walk around the stone to view the inscription from different angles. Its horizontal placement makes the lines easier to read, and the stone’s slate surface has weathered beautifully over the centuries.
• Ringfort Enclosure – Follow the low bank that defines the circular perimeter. The east entrance and the “pillars” at the western end hint at the original layout.
• Cross Slab & Leachta – Inside the enclosure you will find a modest early‑medieval cross slab and three rectangular stone altars. These elements illustrate the devotional practices of the early monastic community.
• Souterrain – The concealed underground passage is partially visible from the surface. While the interior is not open for safety reasons, the entrance gives a tangible sense of how early inhabitants stored food or sought shelter.
• Landscape Views – The site overlooks a small stream, the Direen, to the east. The surrounding fields and distant hills provide a peaceful backdrop, perfect for quiet contemplation or a brief picnic.

Practical Information

Cloghanecarhan is unguided; visitors explore at their own pace. The OPW stresses that the monument is located in a working farm field, so care should be taken to stay on the designated path and respect any livestock that may be present. The OPW does not assume liability for injuries or loss of personal items, so a sensible level of caution is advisable.

Getting there – The most convenient way to reach the site is by car. From Cahersiveen, follow the R564 south‑east for about 7 km; a small turn‑off leads to a short, unpaved lane that drops into the field where the ringfort sits. Signage is minimal, so a GPS coordinate is useful:

There is no formal visitor centre, ticket office, or parking fee – the site is free to access. Parking can be arranged on the roadside near the turn‑off; just ensure you do not block any farm vehicles.

Facilities – As the monument is set in a rural field, there are no on‑site amenities such as toilets or a café. Visitors should plan accordingly.

Further research – For those interested in deeper archaeological context, the OPW links to the Historic Environment Viewer where detailed maps and records are available: Historic Environment Viewer.

Nearby attractions – The Iveragh Peninsula is rich in heritage sites. After exploring Cloghanecarhan, consider a short drive to Ballycarbery Castle, the stone forts of Cahergall, or the coastal ruins of Ballinskelligs Abbey.

Preservation – Cloghanecarhan is protected under the National Monuments Acts 1930‑2014. Visitors are encouraged to treat the stone and surrounding earth with respect, avoiding any removal of stones or artefacts.

Visiting Tips

• Parking & Access – Use the roadside lay‑by near the farm gate; the lane into the field is unpaved and can be narrow after rain.
• Footwear – The ground can be uneven and slippery in wet weather; sturdy walking shoes are recommended.
• Dog Policy – As the site is on working farmland, keep dogs on a leash and under control (please verify with the landowner).
• Accessibility – The path is not paved and may be challenging for wheelchair users; confirm accessibility before visiting.
• Seasonal Advice – The monument is open year‑round, but winter weather can make the field muddy. Summer visits usually provide clearer views of the surrounding hills.

Nearby Ogham Sites

County Kerry hosts several other ogham monuments. A short drive north brings you to the Ballintaggart Ogham Stones, a collection of early medieval stones with well‑preserved inscriptions. Comparing the two sites offers insight into regional variations in ogham carving styles.

Further Reading

• OPW page for Cloghanecarhan: heritageireland.ie
• Academic overview of Irish ogham inscriptions (link to external scholarly source can be added by editor).