Overview
Cloonagashel Castle, often referred to as Cloonacastle, sits on the rolling pasture that now forms part of the Ballinrobe Golf Club in County Mayo. The ruin is a substantial rectangular tower house, four storeys high, measuring roughly 14.2 m from north‑east to south‑west and 10.2 m from north‑west to south‑east. Its walls flare outward at the base, a classic defensive technique that adds stability to the stone structure. Though the castle is roofless today, the remaining masonry still conveys the imposing presence it once held over the surrounding countryside and the River Robe that winds toward Lough Mask.
History
The origins of Cloonagashel reach back to the early 13th century. Records indicate that the first stone was laid in 1238 by the Fitzgerald family, a powerful Anglo‑Norman dynasty. In 1312 the stronghold passed into the hands of the Burke clan, who would dominate Connacht for the next three centuries. The Burkes expanded the tower, adding features such as a portcullis‑protected doorway on the south‑east wall and a murder‑hole directly above the entrance – a grim reminder of the violent era in which the castle was built.
The tower’s interior showcases sophisticated medieval engineering. A mural staircase runs up the eastern side, lit by narrow slit windows and capped by a twin‑light window at the top floor. The first floor is roofed by a remarkably well‑preserved vault and contains an ogee‑shaped window on the north‑east wall, as well as a garderobe whose waste chute still exits at ground level. Perhaps the most intriguing element is a concealed chamber hidden within the south‑west wall. Measuring five metres long, 1.4 m wide and 2.3 m high, this windowless room could only be accessed through a small opening in the western corner – a testament to the paranoia and real danger faced by the castle’s occupants.
The Nine Years’ War and Tibbot MacWalter Kittagh Bourke
During the turbulent Tudor period the castle became entangled in the wider conflict of the Nine Years’ War (1593‑1603). The Bourke family, who still held Cloonagashel, were supporters of the Irish rebel leader Hugh Roe O’Donnell. After the escape of Tibbot MacWalter Kittagh Bourke from Athlone prison in 1593, English authorities seized his strongholds in Mayo, including Cloonagashel, Castlebar and Belleek. The loss of these castles weakened the Bourke position and gave the Crown a foothold in the region.
In 1595 Tibbot MacWalter Kittagh returned to Mayo, attempting to reclaim his ancestral seats. Although he briefly retook Belleek, the English forces quickly re‑occupied Cloonagashel, using it as a garrison. The castle’s strategic location overlooking the River Robe made it valuable for controlling movement between Ballinrobe and the Lough Mask basin. After the war ended with the Flight of the Earls, the Bourke line lost its power and the tower fell into gradual decline.
The castle’s fortunes changed dramatically in the late 16th century. In 1592 Sir Richard Bingham, Governor of Connaught appointed by Queen Elizabeth I, captured the castle from the Burkes, inflicting heavy casualties. The violent clash left a lasting imprint on local folklore. One of the most chilling legends tells of the “Mary Burkes” – a group of women from the Burke family who were allegedly hanged from an oak tree on the castle grounds and then buried in a limekiln that still stands on the hillside. The site of their burial is known locally as Poll na Marbh (“Hollow of the Dead”).
The castle continued to evolve after the turbulent Tudor period. Blocked windows and a damaged first‑floor doorway hint at later modifications, while larger window openings on the upper floors suggest that subsequent occupants sought comfort over pure defence, perhaps converting the tower into a more domestic residence before it was finally abandoned.
In the 19th century the surrounding lands were cleared under the direction of Lord Lucan of Castlebar, resulting in the eviction of over a thousand tenants. By the mid‑1800s the estate was leased to James Simpson, a Scotsman who introduced modern farming methods and drainage systems – some of which are still visible as flag‑stone‑lined drains uncovered during the construction of the present golf course.
The 20th century saw the estate’s transformation into a sporting venue. In May 1995 Ballinrobe Golf Club celebrated its centenary and relocated to the Cloonacastle estate, blessing the buildings and grounds. The castle ruins now overlook the fairways, offering golfers and visitors a stark visual reminder of the area’s turbulent past.
What to See & Do
- Exterior Exploration – Walk the perimeter of the tower to appreciate its massive stone walls, the outward‑sloping base, and the remnants of the original portcullis slot. The ivy‑clad façade provides excellent photographic opportunities, especially in the soft light of early morning or late afternoon.
- Murder‑Hole Viewpoint – Stand beneath the entrance on the south‑east wall and look up to the opening that once allowed defenders to pour boiling oil or water on attackers. The sheer drop is still evident, offering a visceral sense of medieval warfare.
- Secret Chamber – Locate the narrow opening in the western corner of the south‑west wall. Though the chamber is cramped, its dimensions (5 m × 1.4 m × 2.3 m) are clearly visible, and the stonework tells a story of hidden refuge or storage.
- Limekiln & Folklore – A short walk downhill leads to a historic limekiln nestled in the woodland. According to local legend, this kiln was the final resting place for the Mary Burkes. The surrounding area, known as Poll na Marbh, is marked by an ancient oak that some say was the hanging tree.
- River Robe Walk – Follow the River Robe as it meanders past the castle towards Lough Mask. The riverbank provides a tranquil setting for a brief stroll, contrasting sharply with the castle’s martial past.
- Golf Course Views – For golf enthusiasts, the castle forms a dramatic backdrop to several holes on the Ballinrobe Golf Club course. While the course is private, the club occasionally allows public access to the grounds for events or guided walks.
Nearby Attractions
While you are in the area, consider a short drive to the spectacular Aasleagh Falls, a series of waterfalls on the River Aasleagh, or explore the wild landscapes of Ballycroy National Park. Both sites are within 20 km of Cloonagashel and make excellent additions to a day‑out in West Mayo.
Practical Information
Cloonagashel Castle is situated on the Ballinrobe Golf Club estate, just outside the town of Ballinrobe in County Mayo. The exact coordinates are 53.64673704 N, ‑9.16391597 W. There is no formal visitor centre, ticket office, or set opening hours; the ruins are visible from the public footpaths that skirt the golf course. Because the site lies on private land, visitors should respect any signage and stay on designated paths.
Getting there – The castle is easily reached by car via the N84 road, turning onto the Ballinrobe Golf Club access road. A small car park is available at the club’s main entrance; parking is free for visitors who are not playing golf, though it is courteous to check with the club staff during peak tournament periods.
Facilities – No on‑site facilities such as restrooms or a café are provided at the ruin itself. The nearby town of Ballinrobe offers a range of amenities, including cafés, pubs, and accommodation options ranging from B&Bs to hotels.
Accessibility – The terrain around the castle is uneven, with stone steps and grassy slopes. While the immediate viewing area is reachable for most able‑bodied visitors, there is no wheelchair‑accessible route to the interior features.
Visiting Tips
- Arrive early in the morning or late afternoon for the best light and fewer golfers on the course.
- Bring a sturdy pair of shoes; the ground can be slippery after rain.
- Respect the private nature of the golf club – stay on the marked footpaths and keep noise to a minimum.
- Check the Ballinrobe Golf Club website or contact the club before planning a visit, as access may be restricted during tournaments or special events.
Whether you are a history buff, a lover of atmospheric ruins, or simply seeking a quiet spot to reflect on Ireland’s turbulent past, Cloonagashel Castle offers a compelling glimpse into medieval life set against the serene backdrop of County Mayo’s countryside.