Coolkerry Church

Overview

Coolkerry Church lies in the townland of Coolkerry, a short distance north‑west of Rathdowney in County Laois. The ruin sits on a modest rise overlooking the River Erkina, surrounded by low‑lying pasture and a modest D‑shaped graveyard. The site is marked on the 1841 Ordnance Survey map as “Coolkerry Church (in ruins)”, and today the only standing fragment is the west gable, its stonework draped in ivy. The church’s footprint measured roughly 17 m long by 7.3 m wide, a typical size for a rural parish of the early 13th century.

History

The parish of Coolkerry was established in the early 1200s, under the patronage of the Norman lords who built the nearby Coolkerry Castle. These patrons allocated the parish’s tithes to St Thomas’s Abbey in Dublin, linking the modest rural church to a major religious house of the Canons Regular. By the mid‑17th century the church was already recorded as a ruin in the Down Survey, which noted a “ruined church, weir and cabin” on the site. The surrounding landscape once featured a weir on the Erkina River and a ford that formed part of an ancient road linking western Upper Ossory to Kilkenny. This route, known as the Sligh Dhála, was one of the principal medieval highways from Tara and is still commemorated in local heritage walks.

The graveyard, recorded as a D‑shaped enclosure of about 31 m × 33 m, is bounded by a low stone wall that is collapsing in places. The ground inside the enclosure is slightly higher than the surrounding fields, helping to keep the ruins dry in wet weather. The earliest dated headstone is 1768; the most recent is 1983, with many uninscribed stones likely dating to the Great Famine.

What to See & Do

Visitors to Coolkerry Church can:

Admire the west gable – the only surviving wall, its stonework still bears traces of medieval masonry and is framed by a bank of grass where the other walls once stood.
Explore the graveyard – the enclosed D‑shaped burial ground contains a range of 18th‑ to 20th‑century headstones, including Celtic‑cross motifs, recumbent slabs and table tombs. Uninscribed stones, likely famine‑era markers, add a poignant historical layer.
Take in the river views – the church’s elevated position offers sweeping views over the Erkina, especially striking after a rain when the river runs high.
Walk the historic route – the ancient road that once crossed the Erkina near the church is highlighted in the annual Erkina River Festival walks, allowing walkers to trace the medieval pilgrimage path that linked Coolkerry to Kilkenny.

Access & Parking

Coolkerry Church is freely accessible; there is no admission charge. From Rathdowney, follow the minor road east‑by‑south for about 1 mile, then turn onto the field track that leads to a gate on the north bank of the Erkina. A short, un‑paved walk across the fields brings you into the graveyard.

There is no formal car park, but a lay‑by on the Rathdowney road provides convenient roadside parking for a short stay. The site has no visitor facilities, so bring water and wear sturdy shoes. Dogs are welcome on a leash, but keep them under control on the uneven ground. The ruins are not lit after dark; plan your visit for daylight hours.

Events & Walks

The Erkina River Festival (usually held in July) includes an “Ancient Road Walk” that starts at the Woodenbridge over the Erkina and follows the historic Sligh Dhála past Coolkerry Church, across the old ford, and on to Kilkenny. The 10 km walk highlights medieval sites, river scenery and a 18th‑century Mass rock. Registration and parking are provided at the Woodenbridge.

Local heritage groups also organise occasional guided walks along the Laois Heritage Trail and the Laois Monastic Trail, both of which pass near Coolkerry and give context to the Norman and early Christian landscape of the county.

Nearby Attractions

While you are in the area, consider visiting other historic sites in Laois:

Aghaboe Abbey – an early medieval monastic settlement with impressive stonework.
Castle Durrow – a 17th‑century mansion set in extensive parkland.
The Rock of Dunamase – a dramatic hill‑top fortress with panoramic views (see Rock of Dunamase).
The Laois Heritage Trail – a self‑guided route linking numerous archaeological and historic landmarks across the county.

Practical Information

Coolkerry Church is freely accessible; there is no admission charge. The site is reached via a minor road from Rathdowney (approximately 1 mile east‑by‑south) and a short walk across fields to a gate that leads into the graveyard. There are no formal pathways inside the enclosure, and the boundary wall is about 1 m high and shows signs of collapse in places, so visitors should watch their step. The ground within the graveyard is slightly higher than the surrounding fields, helping to keep the ruins dry in wet weather.

The graveyard is maintained by the local community and is mown regularly, keeping the surrounding grass short and the ruins visible. While there is no dedicated parking lot, a lay‑by on the road to Rathdowney provides convenient roadside parking for a short stay. The site is best visited in daylight, as the ruins are not lit after dark.