Overview
Custume Barracks sits on the eastern bank of the River Shannon in the heart of Athlone, County Westmeath. Officially the headquarters of the Irish Defence Forces’ Western Command, the installation is home to the 6th Infantry Battalion, the 2nd Brigade Artillery Regiment and detachments of the 2 Engineer Company and the Medical Corps. While the site is a working military base and therefore closed to the general public, its layered history – from a 17th‑century cavalry encampment to a Cold‑War nuclear command centre – makes it a focal point for anyone interested in Irish military heritage.
History
1690‑1691: The birth of a garrison
The barracks trace their origins to the Williamite siege of Athlone in 1690. Sergeant Custume, serving with Maxwell’s Dragoons, fell defending the bridge that linked the town’s two banks. After the Williamite forces finally captured Athlone in 1691, a modest collection of wooden huts was erected on the west side of the Shannon to house cavalry and infantry units. These temporary structures formed the nucleus of what would become Custume Barracks.
18th‑19th centuries: Expansion and architectural ambition
During the Napoleonic era the British recognised Athlone’s strategic position and dramatically expanded the garrison between 1784 and 1815. A major rebuilding programme around 1810 produced the imposing twenty‑three‑bay, two‑storey range that dominates the site today. The façade is of coursed rubble limestone with red‑brick dressings, punctuated by a four‑storey pedimented clock tower of ashlar limestone. The tower’s cast‑iron weather‑vane and the hipped slate roof give the complex a distinctive silhouette that can be seen from across the river.
The main gate, a twentieth‑century addition, was constructed from the stones of a former caponnière that once guarded the original Market Square entrance. Relocated to facilitate the building of the Church of SS Peter and Paul, the gate is a tangible reminder of the barracks’ evolving relationship with the town.
Early 20th century: From British to Irish hands
The barracks remained a British installation (known as Victoria Barracks) until the Irish Free State took control in 1922. General Seán MacEoin renamed the complex Custume Barracks in honour of the 17th‑century hero. Throughout the War of Independence (1919‑1921) the site was a flashpoint, with Crown forces using it as a base for operations that deeply affected the local community.
Cold War: A hidden nuclear bunker
In the 1960s a secret underground facility was constructed beneath the barracks. Designed to accommodate up to 100 senior officials in the event of a nuclear exchange, the bunker featured a command‑and‑control centre, a map room, communications equipment (including a hotline to Whitehall), kitchen, sleeping quarters and bathroom facilities. A later, never‑realised plan called for a larger Integrated National Control Centre capable of housing 300 people for a month, but the project was abandoned.
Today
Custume Barracks remains an active Defence Forces site and the oldest occupied barracks in Europe. Its historic fabric is largely intact, and the clock tower continues to dominate the Athlone skyline. In September 2025 a major photographic exhibition – curated by veterans – opened in the Officers’ Mess, showcasing hand‑over images from 1922, historic buildings, and notable personalities associated with the barracks. The exhibition is scheduled for limited public viewing on dates to be announced.
What to See & Do
| Feature | Description |
|---|---|
| Clock Tower | A four‑storey pedimented tower with a cast‑iron weather‑vane; visible from the Shannon and a landmark for navigation. |
| Georgian/Victorian Range | Twenty‑three bays of limestone and brick, with segmental‑headed doorcases, fanlights and original sash windows. |
| Former Water‑Gate | Remains of the 19th‑century water‑gate that gave the barracks direct river access; now a photographic subject. |
| Jadotville Memorial | A modest stone memorial on the grounds commemorating the 35th Battalion’s bravery during the 1961 UN mission in the Congo. |
| Cold‑War Bunker (Exterior) | While the underground chambers are not accessible, the surface hatch and surrounding concrete works can be viewed from the perimeter. |
| Historic Photographic Exhibition | When open, the exhibition in the Officers’ Mess offers a visual narrative of the barracks’ evolution. |
Because the site is an active military installation, interior tours are not offered and the perimeter is fenced. However, the riverfront promenade along the Shannon provides excellent photographic angles of the clock tower and the barracks’ façade, especially at sunrise or dusk.
Practical Information
- Access: The barracks are not open to the public for routine visits due to security considerations. Occasional public events (e.g., the photographic exhibition) are announced by the Irish Defence Forces and may require pre‑registration.
- Nearest public transport: Athlone railway station (approximately 0.9 km north‑west of the barracks) offers regular services to Dublin, Galway and other major towns. From the station, a short walk or a brief taxi ride brings you to the barracks’ outer perimeter.
- Parking: Limited on‑site parking is reserved for military personnel. Visitors attending a public event should use the public car park on Grace Road (adjacent to the Riverbank) or the town centre car park, both a 5‑minute walk away.
- Coordinates: 53.4251478 N, ‑7.94454104 W (decimal) – useful for GPS navigation.
- Website: For official updates, see the Defence Forces page on Custume Barracks (official URL to be added).
- Admission: No entry fee when events are open; otherwise the site is closed.
- Accessibility: The interior is not accessible to the public. The riverfront walkway is level and wheelchair‑friendly, offering external views of the complex.
Visiting Tips
- Check event listings on the Defence Forces website or local tourism boards before travelling; public openings are infrequent and often require advance booking.
- Arrive early if you plan to photograph the clock tower from the promenade – the light at sunrise and the golden hour at dusk are particularly striking.
- Public transport: Bus Éireann routes 71 and 71A stop near the town centre; a short walk will bring you to the riverfront.
- Cyclists: The Old Rail Trail greenway runs close by and provides a traffic‑free approach to the barracks.
Getting There
Athlone lies on the M6 motorway between Dublin and Galway, making the barracks easily reachable by car. From the town centre, follow the signs for Grace Road and the River Shannon; the barracks sit just east of the main bridge. For cyclists, the Old Rail Trail greenway passes a short distance to the north, providing a scenic, traffic‑free route into town.
Nearby Points of Interest
While you wait for a possible exhibition opening, the surrounding Athlone area offers a wealth of attractions within walking or short driving distance:
- Athlone Castle – a medieval stronghold overlooking the Shannon.
- Shannon Banks Nature Trail – a riverside walk with interpretive panels on local wildlife.
- Lough Ree – a large lake popular for boating and fishing (no internal link available).
- Belvedere House – an 18th‑century mansion with formal gardens and the famous Jealous Wall.
- Hill of Uisneach – mythic centre of Ireland, offering panoramic views and ancient monuments.
- Kilbeggan Distillery – Ireland’s oldest working whiskey distillery, a short drive north.
- Jadotville Memorial – located on the barracks grounds, commemorating Irish UN soldiers.
Custume Barracks stands as a living monument to centuries of Irish military history – from the Williamite wars to the Cold War – and, despite its closed doors, its imposing architecture and riverside setting continue to shape Athlone’s skyline.