Overview
Custume Barracks (Dún Chostúim) sits on the eastern bank of the River Shannon in the heart of Athlone, County Westmeath. Officially the headquarters of the Irish Defence Forces’ Western Command, the installation is home to the 6th Infantry Battalion, the 2nd Brigade Artillery Regiment, and detachments of the 2 Engineer Company and Medical Corps. Because it remains a fully operational military base, the grounds are fenced and interior access is restricted. However, its layered history and commanding riverside presence make it a focal point for anyone tracing Ireland’s military heritage.
A History Forged in Fire & Stone
The Williamite Wars & Sergeant Custume
The site’s origins date to the Williamite siege of Athlone in 1690. During the fierce fighting, Sergeant Custume of Maxwell’s Dragoons was killed while defending the bridge that connected the town’s two banks. Following the Williamite capture of Athlone in 1691, a collection of wooden huts was erected on the west side of the Shannon to house cavalry and infantry. These temporary structures formed the nucleus of the garrison that would eventually bear the sergeant’s name.
Georgian Grandeur & The 1922 Handover
As Athlone’s strategic importance grew, so did the barracks. Between 1784 and 1815, a major expansion programme replaced the original timber structures. The centrepiece of this rebuild is the imposing twenty-three-bay, two-storey range constructed around 1810. Built from coursed rubble limestone with red-brick dressings, the façade is dominated by a four-storey pedimented clock tower of ashlar limestone, topped with a cast-iron weather vane. The building’s repetition of well-proportioned elements gives it the appearance of five separate structures merged under one roof, creating a striking silhouette visible across the river.
The complex remained a British installation, known locally as Victoria Barracks, until the Irish Free State took control in 1922. General Seán MacEoin officially renamed it Custume Barracks to honour the 17th-century soldier. The main gate visitors see today is actually a twentieth-century addition, reconstructed from the stones of a former caponière that once guarded the original Market Square entrance. It was relocated to make way for the Church of SS Peter and Paul, a tangible reminder of how the barracks and the town have evolved together.
Cold War Secrets Beneath the Parade Ground
Beneath the historic parade grounds lies a stark reminder of mid-twentieth-century geopolitical tensions. During the 1960s, a secret underground nuclear bunker was constructed to serve as a command-and-control centre in the event of a nuclear exchange. Designed to accommodate up to 100 senior officials, the facility included a map room, communications equipment with a direct hotline to Whitehall, kitchens, and sleeping quarters.
In 1968, the Department of Defence and the Office of Public Works drafted plans for an even larger Integrated National Control Centre (INCC) capable of housing 300 people for a month. The project featured operations rooms, a broadcasting studio, and a dedicated water supply, but the plans were ultimately abandoned as Cold War tensions eased. Today, the surface hatch and surrounding concrete works remain visible from the perimeter, a quiet testament to a hidden chapter of Irish history.
What You Can See Today
While the interior remains off-limits to the general public, the exterior offers several points of interest for history enthusiasts and photographers:
- The Clock Tower: A four-storey landmark that has guided navigation on the Shannon for over two centuries.
- Georgian & Victorian Architecture: The main range features segmental-headed doorcases, fanlights, and original sash windows that showcase early 19th-century military design.
- Jadotville Memorial: A stone monument on the grounds commemorating the bravery of Irish soldiers during the 1961 UN mission in the Congo.
- Historic Photographic Exhibition: In September 2025, a collection of curated photographs was unveiled in the Officers’ Mess. The display covers the 1922 handover from British forces, historic buildings, and notable personnel. Public viewing dates are announced periodically by the Defence Forces.
The riverfront promenade along the Shannon provides the best vantage point for photographing the barracks’ façade and clock tower. The walkway is level and wheelchair-friendly, offering unobstructed views without crossing security perimeters.
Practical Information & Access
- Admission: Free. The site is an active military base and is not open for routine interior tours. Exterior viewing from the public promenade is free.
- Public Events: Occasional exhibitions or commemorative events are held on-site. These are announced by the Irish Defence Forces and may require advance registration.
- Opening Hours: The exterior promenade is accessible 24/7. Public event hours vary and are published when announced.
- Accessibility: The riverside walkway is fully accessible. The barracks interior is not open to visitors.
- Dog Friendly: Leashed dogs are welcome on the public promenade and surrounding town centre areas.
Getting There & Exploring Athlone
Athlone’s central location on the M6 motorway makes Custume Barracks easily reachable by car. From the town centre, follow signs for Grace Road and the River Shannon; the barracks sit just east of the main bridge. For those avoiding traffic, the Old Rail Trail greenway runs parallel to the river and provides a scenic, traffic-free approach. Bus Éireann routes 71 and 71A stop near the town centre, with a short walk down to the riverfront promenade.
If you are in Athlone, the barracks form just one part of a rich historical circuit. A short walk across the bridge leads to Athlone Castle, while the 5-kilometre Shannon Banks Nature Trail offers interpretive panels on local wildlife and river ecology. Further afield, the 18th-century gardens of Belvedere House, the mythic Hill of Uisneach, and Ireland’s oldest working distillery at Kilbeggan Distillery are all within a short drive.
For the best photographs of Custume Barracks, visit the promenade at sunrise or just before dusk. The limestone façade catches the low light beautifully, and the clock tower stands out sharply against the evening sky. Check the Defence Forces website or local tourism boards before your trip, as public exhibition dates are announced on a rolling basis and often fill up quickly.