Overview
Dunmore East sits on the west side of Waterford Harbour, where red-sandstone cliffs drop to a working fishing port – one of Ireland’s five designated National Fishery Harbours, and one of the busiest in the country for fish landed. Around 1,700 people live here; in summer it fills with day-trippers down for the beaches, the cliff walk and the boats. If you’ve only got an hour, walk the cliff path as far as Portally Cove and back, and leave the longer haul to Ballymacaw for a day you’ve set aside for it.
History and the harbour
The name Dún Mór (“big fort”) traces back to an Iron Age promontory fort at Shanoon, locally known as Black Nobb, where a cave still runs beneath the old pilot station. After the Norman arrival the area passed through several knightly families before Lord Power of Curraghmore built a cliff-top castle around 1640; a single tower stump is all that remains.
The harbour that shaped the modern village was designed by the Scottish engineer Alexander Nimmo in 1818, built as a landing point for the Royal Mail packet boats running between England and Ireland. The original estimate was £20,000; by 1837 it had reached £108,000. By then steam ships could run the winding channel straight up to Waterford city, the river was silting, and the packet station moved upstream – but the harbour turned out to be made for fishing, and it has worked at it ever since.
Maritime life runs through the place. The Fisherman’s Hall was funded by Nanette Malcomson in memory of her son Joseph, on two conditions: no alcohol inside, and a fire always lit to warm fishermen coming off the water. A blue plaque to her was unveiled in 2025. The harbour also has a place in lifeboat history as home to the first official woman crew member on an Irish RNLI lifeboat.
The cliff walk
The signature walk here is the linear coastal path heading west from the harbour, signposted with red arrows on a white background. It is really two walks: an easy-to-moderate 4 km there-and-back to Portally Cove, or a strenuous 15 km return all the way to Ballymacaw Cove. Most people do the short one, and there’s no shame in it. The path runs on ‘pudding stone’ cut from the same quarry that built the harbour walls.
Start from the harbour car park – the only sensible place to leave the car, as there’s no parking at Portally or Rathmoylan and barely any at Ballymacaw. Along the way you pass:
- Flat Rocks – the old quarry where the red pudding stone was cut for the harbour and for Hook Lighthouse.
- Bishop’s Cave – a small, fenced rock shelter traditionally linked to open-air Masses during the Penal Laws.
- Portally Cove – a sheltered inlet with benches and clear views across the estuary; the natural turnaround for a shorter walk.
- Ballymacaw Cove – the far end, with Boat Rock and a pub, for anyone seeing the full 15 km through.
The trail is fenced in places and includes steps, stiles and a stream crossing, so it’s no good for prams or buggies; dogs are welcome on a lead. Keep well back from the edges, and expect it to get slippery after rain.
Beaches and coves
Dunmore East’s coastline is a patchwork of sandy strands and rocky inlets. The tides here are strong and tend to cover the beaches completely, so check the harbour tide board before heading down.
- Counsellors’ Strand – The village’s main beach holds a Blue Flag and is lifeguarded from June to August. There are toilets, a bar with a terrace and ample parking, but access is down a steep slipway that is not wheelchair-friendly. See also the dedicated page for Counsellors’ Strand.
- Lawlor’s Beach – In the Lower Village, a sandy stretch popular for swimming and for watching the fishing fleet come and go.
- Badger’s Cove, Ladies Cove and Men’s Cove – Smaller, sheltered bays with calm, clear water for swimming and snorkelling. Seals haul out on the rocks below the cliffs.
Woodland and adventure
A short way inland lies Dunmore East Woods, 42 acres of mixed forest granted to the village in 1924 by the 7th Marquis of Waterford for public recreation, and held in trust ever since. The marked loops are a quiet escape from the coastal wind, with a children’s playground and fairy-door sculptures tucked among the trunks, and they suit most fitness levels.
For something more active, the Dunmore East Adventure Centre runs from beside the harbour, with kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, sailing, archery, caving and the Wibit Wipeout Aquapark that families tend to make a beeline for. Adaptive equipment is available for visitors who need it.
Food and pubs
Fresh seafood is the local specialty, and the harbour and main street are where to find it. East Pier and O’Shea’s do fish and chips by the water; The Strand Inn and Spinnaker Bar & Restaurant run fuller menus, the Strand Inn’s terrace looking across to Hook Head. For coffee and baking the Seagull Bakery is the local pick, and Power’s Bar is the long-standing spot for a pint and live traditional music.
If you can time a visit to it, the Dunmore East Bluegrass Festival has run every August for three decades; the 31st edition is set for 27–30 August 2026.
Getting there
Dunmore East is about a 20-minute drive south-east of Waterford city, reached via the R683 off the N25. Without a car, Bus Éireann route 354 runs from Waterford city in around 30 minutes; the Suirway bus service also covers the route.
- Parking: The harbour car park has plenty of space and doubles as the cliff-walk trailhead, though it fills fast on summer weekends; a seasonal charge can apply.
- Best time to visit: Summer brings lifeguarded beaches and calm water for paddling. Spring and autumn are better for birdwatching, with migrating waders along the shore and the occasional red-legged chough on the cliffs.
- Safety: Check tide times before exploring rocky coves, and carry waterproof footwear if you mean to walk the full cliff trail.
Nearby
Dunmore East makes a handy base for the wider coast. The cliff path of the Ardmore Peninsula lies to the south-west, the market town of Dungarvan is about 30 km west along the coast, and the Copper Coast Geopark beyond it offers a UNESCO-recognised landscape of old mine workings, hidden beaches and clifftop walks.
For a full day, pair a morning on the cliff walk with an afternoon working through the harbour’s seafood, then a slow loop of the village woods as the boats come back in.