Erriff Valley

Overview

The Erriff Valley is the last narrow stretch of County Mayo before the landscape opens out into Connemara and the dramatic fjord of Killary Harbour. The River Erriff winds through lowlands, moors and steep mountain flanks, most famously the looming ‘Devil’s Mother’ and the towering Ben Gorm. Sheep and horses graze on the riverbanks, while salmon and trout surge through the clear waters, making the valley a magnet for anglers, walkers and photographers alike.

History & Background

While the valley has long been a working landscape for farming and fishing, it also earned a place on the silver screen. In 1990 Jim Sheridan’s film The Field used the dramatic Aasleagh Falls as the backdrop for its most memorable fight scene, cementing the area’s cinematic legacy. The falls and surrounding scenery have since become a point of cultural interest for film‑enthusiasts visiting the west of Ireland.

Historical Farming & Heritage

In the mid‑19th century the Erriff Valley formed part of the largest sheep farm in Ireland. Captain William Houstoun of the 10th Hussars leased roughly 40 000 acres across the Erriff, Sheeffry and Doolough areas, introducing Cheviot and Scottish Blackface flocks that supplied the wartime wool boom. The lease included the now‑ruined Doolough House, whose stone walls sit among a stand of Scots pine planted by the estate. After the Congested Districts Board acquired the land in 1913 the large estate was broken into smaller family farms, many of which still work the valley today.

Geology & Landscape

The Erriff Valley is a classic Quaternary glacial valley, about 2 km wide and 15 km long, formed during the Late Midlandian (c. 18 000 years ago). The bedrock consists of Middle‑Upper Ordovician conglomerates, sandstones and ignimbrites of the Mweelrea Formation. Post‑glacial processes have left a rich suite of landforms: kame terraces, eskers, and a prominent beaded esker that runs parallel to the valley’s central axis. Notable features include:

• A kame terrace opposite Glennacally Bridge, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.
• Cross‑valley moraine ridges curving westwards near Srahlea Bridge.
• An extensive esker system visible from the N59 road. These geomorphological elements are recognised in the County Geological Site report (GSI MO054) and contribute to understanding the retreat of the Irish Ice Sheet. Access to many of the kames is via private land, so visitors should respect landowner boundaries and use the designated pull‑in points along the N59 for observation.

What to See & Do

Aasleagh Falls

Aasleagh Falls drops a few metres just before the River Erriff meets Killary Harbour. The cascade is framed by ancient forests and the rugged Connemara hills, offering a perfect spot for a quiet picnic or a dramatic photograph. Two small car parks sit on either side of the R335 just north of Leenane, providing easy road access. Although there is no formal footpath, a short walk from the parking area leads to the falls and the historic Aasleagh Bridge, where visitors can watch salmon leaping upstream during the summer months. For more detail see the dedicated page on Aasleagh Falls.

Walking the Western Way

The Western Way long‑distance trail begins at Aasleagh and follows the river for about 12 km to Sheeffry Pass. Highlights include:

• Houston Bridge with sweeping views of Leenane.
• Tawnyard Forestry, a Coillte‑managed pine forest that skirts Tawnyard Lough, home to a crannog island.
• Barnaderg Mountain and the Sheeffry Pass, offering panoramic vistas of the Devil’s Mother and, on clear days, the distant silhouette of Croagh Patrick.
• Saint Dabeoc’s Heath, a blooming heathland from May to October. The route is well‑marked on the Western Way map board near the falls and provides a blend of riverbank strolling, forest tracks and mountain scenery. The GSI report notes that the Western Way follows the N59 for the first 5 km before turning northwest across the Erriff River at Houston’s Bridge.

Fishing on the Erriff River

The Erriff River and its two companion loughs – Tawnyard (250 acres) and Derrintin – form the renowned Erriff Fishery, one of Ireland’s premier salmon fisheries. Anglers can expect eight miles of prime water divided into nine beats, with most beats limited to two rods. The season runs from June to September for salmon, with grilse and sea trout arriving in Tawnyard Lough from June onward. Fly‑fishing is the dominant method, though spinning, worm and prawn may be permitted on a case‑by‑case basis. Boats and outboard motors are available for lake fishing, and a fishery permit plus a State Salmon and Sea Trout licence are required.

Seasonal Angling Notes

A major flood in early 2020 brought an influx of salmon into the river, illustrating how high water levels can dramatically improve runs. Anglers often plan trips around such events, but should check the latest fishery reports before heading out.

Kayaking & Whitewater

For the adventurous, the lower kilometre of the Erriff offers a Grade 2‑4 whitewater run ending in a 12‑ft drop at Aasleagh Falls. The river is generally flat, but the final 0.8 km provides two distinct waves and a small cauldron that can be tackled by experienced kayakers. The Irish Whitewater Guide grades the stretch as V(d), though local guides note that the grade is generous. Kayaking is permitted outside the fishing season (October‑March) and requires awareness of the Fisheries Board’s access rules.

Wildlife & Photography

The valley’s varied habitats support a rich array of wildlife: native birds such as the peregrine falcon, merlin and meadow pipit; otters along the riverbanks; and, of course, the iconic Atlantic salmon that surge upriver in summer. The dramatic backdrop of the Devil’s Mother and the ever‑changing light on the river make the Erriff Valley a photographer’s playground, especially during sunrise and the golden hour.

Guided Tours & Experiences

Near the mouth of Killary Harbour, the Uggool farm offers a three‑hour guided walk that links the farm’s historic stone‑wall‑enclosed fields, a small famine‑village ruin and a pristine strand. The tour, run by local farmer Gerard Bourke, combines storytelling about the 19th‑century sheep‑farm era with opportunities to spot wildlife and enjoy the coastal scenery. It is a popular addition to a day‑trip that also includes the Erriff Valley.

Conservation & Research

The Erriff River is designated as a National Salmonid Index Catchment, serving as a benchmark for high‑quality salmonid rivers in Ireland. Inland Fisheries Ireland operates a hatchery near Delphi Lodge that raises and releases around 50 000 salmon smolts each year, with strict tagging to protect the genetic integrity of wild stocks. Ongoing monitoring and research are carried out in partnership with national and international bodies, making the valley an important site for freshwater ecology studies.

Seasonal Highlights

• Salmon run (June‑September): Peak activity for anglers and wildlife watchers; the river is often at its fullest after autumn rains.
• Spring wildflowers (May‑June): Saint Dabeoc’s Heath bursts into colour, providing excellent photography opportunities.
• Autumn floods: As seen in 2020, high water can dramatically increase salmon numbers – a spectacular time for both anglers and photographers.
• Winter (October‑March): Ideal for kayaking when fishing restrictions are lifted; the landscape takes on a stark, dramatic mood.

Accommodation

While the valley itself has no visitor centre, the nearby Delphi Lodge (a Georgian country house built for the Marquis of Sligo in the 1830s) offers self‑catering rooms, a communal dining area and direct access to the fishery. The lodge has hosted notable guests, including a visit by Prince Charles in 1995. Booking in advance is advised, especially during the salmon season.

Getting There & Access

The main entry point to the valley is via the R335 from Leenane. From Westport follow the N59 to Leenane, then turn onto the R335 towards Delphi Lodge and Aasleagh Falls. Public transport options are limited; the nearest bus stop is in Leenane, with services to and from Westport and Galway. The closest airport is Ireland West Airport Knock (approximately 70 km north). Private car is the most convenient way to reach the valley, and both sides of the R335 provide small car parks (see the table below). The road is narrow and winding, so drivers should be prepared for sharp bends and give way to pedestrians and cyclists.

Parking

Practical Information

The Erriff Valley is open year‑round and free to access. The official tourism page is hosted by Mayo County Council: Erriff Valley – Mayo Ireland.

Fishing Permits & Licences

Guides and equipment hire are available from local operators such as the Erriff Fishery (tel: +353 95 42382) and Connemara Wild Escapes, which offers full‑day guided salmon and sea‑trout trips.

Kayaking Access

Kayaking is allowed outside the official fishing season (October‑March). Outside these months the Fisheries Board has confirmed there are no restrictions, but paddlers should still respect private land and follow Leave‑No‑Trace principles.

Coordinates

• River Put‑in (Aasleagh start): 53.63446, ‑9.60617
• Take‑out (downstream of falls): 53.61795, ‑9.67108

Nearby Attractions

Visitors often combine a trip to Erriff Valley with a stop in nearby Aughagower, a historic pilgrimage village, or a walk along the western edge of Ballycroy National Park. The dramatic scenery also makes a perfect backdrop for exploring the wider Connemara region.

The Erriff Valley offers a blend of dramatic scenery, world‑class angling, and quiet river walks that capture the wild heart of western Ireland. Whether you are chasing salmon, tracing the steps of a film crew, or simply soaking in the mountain vistas, the valley promises an unforgettable Irish experience.