Overview
Nine glacial valleys (Irish: Glinnte Aontroma) radiate from the Antrim Plateau down to the coast between the port of Larne and Ballycastle, each cut by its own river and carrying its own name. Together they form part of the Antrim Coast and Glens Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The villages strung along the shore Cushendun, Cushendall, Waterfoot, Carnlough and Glenarm are small, and the appeal is less any single sight than the drive that links them.
If you have only an afternoon, spend it at Glenariff: the forest park holds the best of the waterfalls and the most walkable trails. With a full day, drive the coast road end to end and pull off into the quieter valleys as the mood takes you.
History, Myth & Landscape
Long before they became a favoured visitor destination, the glens served as vital strategic corridors. From the 13th century, the Anglo-Norman Bissett family held the Lordship of the Glens, eventually passing control to the MacDonnells of Antrim in the late 1300s. The MacDonnells, originally Lords of the Isles, used the narrow valleys as defensive strongholds and trade routes between Antrim and their lands in the Scottish isles.
Beneath the history lies a landscape carved by ice and fire. The underlying basalt, laid down by volcanic eruptions 55 to 60 million years ago, is the same rock that forms the Giant’s Causeway and gives the higher ground its dark character. Far more recently, Ice Age glaciers scoured the Antrim Plateau into the deep U-shaped and V-shaped troughs you drive through today. Thin glacial deposits and limestone cliffs, particularly in Glencloy, add to the mix.
Older stories cling to the valleys too. Local legend ties the area to the warrior-king Fionn mac Cumhaill and his son Oisín. In Glenaan, the Neolithic court cairn known as Oisín’s Grave is a tangible link to those tales, while standing stones and raths scattered across the glens hint at millennia of human presence. The scenery is also said to have helped inspire C.S. Lewis’s Narnia; he holidayed on this coast as a boy.
Exploring the Nine Glens
Each valley has its own distinct character and name origin:
- Glenarm (“Valley of the Army”): Home to the historic village and Glenarm Castle, whose gardens have won multiple national awards. The riverside walk and nearby Templeoughter ruins make it a relaxed starting point.
- Glencloy (“Valley of the Sword”): Known for limestone cliffs, the old mineral railway, and the striking Cranny Falls. The harbour at Carnlough offers a good base for coastal walks.
- Glenariff (“Queen of the Glens”): A classic U-shaped valley containing the extensive Glenariff Forest Park. The famous Mare’s Tail waterfall and well-maintained walking loops draw visitors year-round.
- Glencorp: The main corridor for the Causeway Coastal Road, offering sweeping views of the Trostan and Lurig mountains and easy access to Cushendall Bay.
- Glenballyeamon: Features a series of dramatic waterfalls that swell after rain, plus the atmospheric ruins of Retreat Station.
- Glenaan: A quieter, private-access valley known for Oisín’s Grave and summer wildflowers.
- Glendun (“Valley of the River Dun”): Dominated by the three-arch Glendun Viaduct, built in 1839 as part of William Bald’s Antrim Coast Road.
- Glenshesk (“Valley of the Rushes”): Steep slopes lead to the 15th-century Friary of Bonamargie and offer clear views across to Rathlin Island.
- Glentaisie: Named after the legendary daughter Taisie, this glen features motte forts, standing stones, and remnants of a narrow-gauge railway.
What to See & Do
- Walk the Moyle Way: A challenging 26-mile trek that threads through five of the nine glens over two days. It’s ideal for experienced hikers seeking rugged mountain scenery and quiet forest trails.
- Glenariff Forest Park Walks: Choose between the 3 km waterfall loop featuring the Mare’s Tail cascade, or the shorter 1 km viewpoint trail that winds through ornamental plantings. Both are well signposted.
- Glendun Viaduct: A photographer’s favourite. The stone bridge sits perfectly framed by the surrounding hills and is easily accessible from the main coastal road.
- Day trip to Rathlin Island: Just off the coast, Rathlin hosts Ireland’s largest seabird colony. Regular ferries depart from Ballycastle harbour.
- Glenarm Castle & Gardens: Book a guided tour to explore the historic house, walled garden, and seasonal flower displays. The May tulip festival is particularly popular.
- Village life: Spend an afternoon in Cushendall or Waterfoot, where community festivals, craft stalls, and traditional music sessions keep the local culture alive.
Wildlife & Birdwatching
The coastal cliffs and offshore islands provide crucial nesting grounds for puffins, razorbills, guillemots, and kittiwakes. Spring and early summer are the best times to spot them, especially from the shores of Glenshesk or on a trip to Rathlin Island. Inland, the mixed oak and ash woodlands of Glenariff support red squirrels, badgers, and a variety of songbirds. Late spring brings a reliable bloom of red fuchsia, lupins, and bluebells, which attract pollinators and add vivid colour to the valley floors.
Food & Drink
Fresh seafood is a staple in Carnlough, and Glenarm does traditional pub fare. In Cushendun, Mary McBride’s bar has long been a fixture for a quiet pint and conversation.
Events & Festivals
- Tulip Festival: Glenarm Castle Gardens, May
- Heart of the Glens Festival: Cushendall village green, August
- Summer Music Sessions: Various village pubs across Cushendun and Waterfoot, June–August
- Rathlin Island Seabird Festival: Rathlin Island, late May to early June
Practical Information
Getting There
- By car: The A2 Causeway Coastal Route links Larne to Ballycastle in roughly 90 minutes. The road is two lanes with narrow sections in Glenshesk and Glendun, so allow extra time for photo stops and passing slower traffic.
- Public transport: Ulsterbus routes 212 and 213 run from Belfast to Ballycastle, with onward services to Glenarm, Cushendall, Carnlough, and Waterfoot. Belfast Lanyon Place is the nearest rail station.
- Air travel: Belfast International Airport is approximately 45 km away. A rental car or shuttle is the most straightforward way to reach the glens.
Parking & Facilities
Free car parks are available in the main village centres and at most trailheads. Glenariff Forest Park charges £5 per vehicle to park; the trails themselves are free and open dawn to dusk. Tea rooms and cafés operate in Waterfoot, Glenarm, Carnlough, and Ballycastle. Accommodation ranges from boutique B&Bs to self-catering cottages, with most options concentrated in the coastal villages. Village streets and visitor centres are generally wheelchair accessible, though most glen trails involve uneven, natural terrain.
Seasonal Tips
- Waterfalls at Glenariff and Glenballyeamon are most powerful after heavy winter and early spring rain.
- Wildflower displays peak in late spring and early summer, particularly in Glenaan and along the Glenariff forest loops.
- Summer brings the busiest visitor numbers, so booking accommodation and castle tours in advance is recommended.
One practical note: the coast road carries the tour buses, so the quiet is up the side valleys they skip Glenaan for wildflowers in June, Glenballyeamon for the waterfalls after rain. Time a visit for a day or two after heavy rain and the falls alone are worth the trip.