Overview
The Great Military Road – also called the Old Military Road or An Bóthar Míleata – stretches roughly 60 km from the Dublin suburb of Rathfarnham, through the heart of Wicklow Mountains National Park, to the village of Laragh. The route is open 24 hours a day, free of charge, and can be driven at any time, though severe winter weather may force temporary closures. At the highest point the road crosses the Sally Gap (≈ 500 m a.s.l.) where the historic alignment is popularly known as Murderin’ Pass. The drive, with frequent lay‑bys for photos, takes 2–3 hours and pairs perfectly with a visit to the monastic site of Glendalough for a full‑day excursion from Dublin.
History / Background
In the aftermath of the 1798 Irish Rebellion the British army commissioned a strategic road to chase guerrilla fighters into the Wicklow hills. Construction began on 12 August 1800 under the direction of engineer Alexander Taylor (1746‑1820) and was completed by October 1809. Four barracks were erected along the line – at Glencree, Laragh, Glenmalure, and Aghavannagh – many of which survive as ruins or have been repurposed (e.g., the Glencree Reconciliation Centre).
The section that now forms the R759 across the Sally Gap follows an older east‑west track along the Cloghoge River. In the mid‑1700s the valley of Lough Tay was reclaimed, prompting a higher alignment that locals later dubbed “Murderin’ Pass” because of its treacherous winter conditions. The name endures, and the pass has even been mentioned by actor Daniel Day‑Lewis, who praised its stark beauty.
Two centuries later the military artery has become a beloved scenic route, celebrated for dramatic vistas, stone‑wall remnants, and the lingering sense of 19th‑century engineering.
What to See & Do
- Glencree – First major stop after leaving Dublin. Explore the former barracks and the quiet German war cemetery.
- Sally Gap / Murderin’ Pass – The highest crossroads (498 m) offers sweeping views of blanket bog, granite hills and the turquoise Lough Tay (often called “Guinness Lake”). A short walk from the R759 car‑park provides the classic viewpoint framed by Djouce and Luggala.
- P.S. I Love You Bridge – A small stone bridge just beyond the pass, made famous by the 2007 film P.S. I Love You; a quick photo stop for movie fans.
- Lough Tay – Private property owned by the Guinness family trust; the lake is visible from the viewpoint and was used as a filming location for the TV series Vikings.
- Lower and Upper Lough Bray – Small glacial lakes a short detour north of Glencree; accessible via a brief walk for better views.
- Lough Dan – Visible from the road and from walking routes that link the two lakes.
- Glenmacnass Waterfall – An 80 m cascade a few kilometres west of the pass; a modest car‑park and viewing platform make it an easy photo stop.
- Glendalough – The road descends to Laragh, the gateway to the 6th‑century monastic settlement with twin lakes and ancient stonework.
- Powerscourt Estate – A short side‑trip from Enniskerry leads to Ireland’s highest waterfall and formal gardens (not on the main road but worth the detour).
- Seefin Passage Tomb – An ancient megalithic tomb visible from the road near the Sally Gap; a short walk brings you to the cairn.
Walking & Hiking
The military road forms the backbone of several popular walks:
- Lough Tay to Lough Dan Loop – A 10 km circuit starting from the Lough Tay viewpoint, passing the private lake shore, then descending to Lough Dan via well‑marked forest tracks.
- Djouce Mountain Walk – Begins at the JB Malone car‑park (near the Sally Gap) and climbs to the summit of Djouce (724 m) for panoramic views of the Wicklow range.
- Lough Ouler Hike – Accessed from the Glenmacnass car‑park; a challenging 12 km trek to the remote Lough Ouler, offering dramatic mountain scenery.
- Ballinastoe Woods Trail – A gentle woodland walk that starts off the R115 near Glencree, ideal for families.
- Seefin Passage Tomb Trail – A short 1 km walk from the road to the ancient tomb, with interpretive signage.
Cycling
The Sally Gap cycling loop (≈ 26 km) follows the Old Military Road and the R759. It is popular with experienced cyclists because of steep climbs, strong winds and narrow bends. Safety tips:
- Wear a helmet and high‑visibility clothing.
- Check the weather forecast – the pass can be icy in winter.
- Use the designated pull‑outs for overtaking; traffic can be unpredictable.
- Dogs are allowed on the road but must be kept on a leash.
Food & Refreshments
- Wicklow Heather – A cosy café near the Glenmacnass Waterfall, serving hot drinks and light meals; a good stop in colder months.
- Coach House (Roundwood) – Offers hearty Irish fare and a fireplace during winter.
- Picnic facilities are available at the Lough Tay viewpoint and at the Glenmacnass car‑park.
Practical Information
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Opening hours | Open 24 hours, 7 days a week (free access) |
| Admission fee | Free |
| Parking | Informal pull‑ins and lay‑bys along the route; designated car‑parks at Lough Tay viewpoint, Glenmacnass Waterfall, and Glendalough. Limited spaces at Lough Tay – arrive early in summer. |
| Road condition | Fully paved but narrow; occasional on‑coming traffic and wandering sheep. Not wheelchair accessible. |
| Winter | Snow and ice can make the pass impassable; check Met Éireann forecasts and local signage before travelling. |
| Transport | Rental car recommended. No direct public transport to the Sally Gap; buses run to Rathfarnham and Laragh, where you can walk or cycle to the road. |
| Guided tours | Day‑tour packages start at €40 (e.g., Wild Wicklow Tour, Glendalough & Wicklow Tour from Dublin). |
| Facilities | No visitor centre on the pass; toilets at Glendalough and Powerscourt Estate. Picnic tables at Lough Tay viewpoint. |
| Dog friendly | Dogs are permitted on the road and most walking routes but must be kept on a leash in the National Park. |
| Accessibility | The road itself is drivable, but the steep climbs and uneven surfaces of the walking trails are not suitable for wheelchair users. |
Tip: Arrive early in summer to avoid the peak tourist rush and to enjoy longer daylight for photography. Autumn offers colourful foliage, while winter provides dramatic, snow‑capped scenery – just be prepared for possible road closures.