Overview
Kealys Seafood Bar takes its fish off the boats that tie up a few metres away, which is the short version of what Greencastle is: a working fishing harbour at the mouth of Lough Foyle, with a Norman castle and a Napoleonic tower stacked on the rise above it. This is the north-east corner of the Inishowen Peninsula in County Donegal, about 30 minutes’ drive from Derry, and it makes a better base than a day-trip in its own right. The population was 1,268 at the 2022 census, up by more than half in six years, so it’s growing, but the harbour still sets the pace.
History
The village takes its name from Northburgh Castle, built in 1305 by Richard de Burgh, the Red Earl of Ulster, from green freestone quarried on the spot. It was put there to control the sea traffic on Lough Foyle and to press Norman authority on the O’Donnell and O’Doherty clans of Inishowen. That didn’t go entirely to plan: Edward Bruce, brother of the Scottish king, captured it in 1316, and after centuries of sieges, weathering and quarrying for stone, what’s left is a run of curtain wall and vaulted chamber above the harbour, free to walk at any time.
Greencastle’s defences came back into use during the Napoleonic Wars. Fearing a French landing, the British built a round Martello tower on the harbour edge in 1801, to mount a single heavy gun that could sweep the channel. It never fired a shot in anger and was garrisoned until 1890. Alongside it, a 19th-century pier turned Greencastle into a proper fishing port, and the harbour has been the making of the village ever since.
What to see and do
- The castle and Martello tower – Both sit above the harbour, both are free, and the tower is the one to prioritise: the climb gives you the estuary, the Inishowen hills and the ferries crossing below. The light is best on the stone at either end of the day.
- Inishowen Maritime Museum and Planetarium – In the old coastguard station of 1857 on the waterfront. The collection includes a rocket cart used to fire rescue lines to ships, a Fanad curragh, a wild-fowling punt and artefacts from the 1588 Spanish Armada wrecks; the adjoining planetarium runs shows on the night sky. Opening is Monday to Saturday 10:00–16:00 and Sunday 12:00–16:00, seasonal, so check before a special trip.
- The Lough Foyle ferry – Running since 2002, the Greencastle–Magilligan Point crossing takes about 15 minutes and saves roughly 78 km (49 miles) of driving round by Derry. It operates seasonally, April to October, and drops you onto the Causeway Coastal Route. Handy to know: it’s weather-dependent, so don’t build a tight itinerary around it.
- The beach – A stretch of sand runs beside the village, sheltered by the harbour, fine for a stroll or watching the boats. For better swimming, drive on to Kinnagoe Bay (about 10 minutes) or Culdaff (about 20).
Practical information
- Getting there – Greencastle is signposted from the main Inishowen roads; Derry is about 20 miles (32 km), a 30-minute drive. A separate seasonal ferry links Buncrana and Rathmullan on the far side of the peninsula.
- Parking and access – Free parking near the harbour and the beach. The castle and tower are reached by short, level paths, but there’s uneven ground and steps within the ruins themselves.
- Facilities – Cafés, a shop and a tourist information point sit near the harbour, with public toilets at the museum and the beach car park.
- Food – Kealys Seafood Bar is the name locals will give you first; the fish comes straight off the pier.
Time your visit for a morning ferry, walk the tower and museum before lunch, and eat the catch at Kealys before you cross to Magilligan.