Overview
Lough Foyle is one of the few places on the map that two countries both claim outright. The broad tidal estuary of the River Foyle sits between County Londonderry in Northern Ireland and County Donegal in the Republic, and since partition in 1922 the UK has held that the whole lough lies within the UK while Ireland disagrees. None of that shows on the water. Day to day it is the second-largest stretch of intertidal habitat in Northern Ireland, a Ramsar wetland of mudflats, salt-marsh and shifting sandbanks, and in winter it fills with birds.
History & maritime heritage
People have used these shores for a very long time: a Neolithic settlement excavated at Clooney Road near Ballykelly has been dated to around 3800 BC. In the sixth century St Colmcille is said to have sailed out of the Foyle on his way to found the monastery on Iona.
The water’s later story is one of trade and defence. The four-mile Strabane Canal opened in 1792, linking inland Strabane to the tidal estuary before falling out of use in 1962; on the southern shore the Broharris Canal was cut to help drainage and navigation. The lough’s strategic mouth put it in the front line of both world wars – the United States Navy ran a seaplane base on the Inishowen coast during the First World War, and after the Second the estuary was the setting for Operation Deadlight, when surrendered German U-boats were towed out and scuttled. Because the border runs through the water, cross-border activity today is managed jointly by the Loughs Agency under the Good Friday Agreement.
Medieval history is easiest to see at Northburg Castle, also known as Greencastle Castle. Built in 1305, the stone ruins once guarded the shipping lanes and now make a windswept spot to trace the area’s defensive past.
Wildlife
The RSPB manages a reserve on the shore near Ballykelly, though ‘reserve’ oversells the infrastructure: there is no visitor centre and no staff on site, and you watch the birds from the road and the lay-bys rather than from hides. What brings people is the sheer numbers. In autumn and winter more than 500 Whooper Swans fly in to roost, Golden Plovers wheel over the flats and Peregrines send whole flocks of waders wheeling. Pintails, Wigeon and Teal stay on the water for much of the year, with Irish Hares on the fields behind. Come spring, Lapwings display over the fields and otters fish the larger drains.
Walking the Lough Foyle Trail
The 8 km Lough Foyle Trail follows the eastern shore between Ballykelly and the Roe Estuary. Starting from the free car park at Station Road in Ballykelly, the gravel path tracks the sea wall, climbs briefly to cross the Burnfoot River, and continues past a bird hide, the historic Broharris Canal and the distinctive “horseshoe bends” at Myroe.
The route is designed for straightforward walking and can be broken into shorter sections. Access points include Carse Road (Broharris), Ballymacran (Carrowclare Road) and Shore Avenue (Myroe). Each entry point has free parking. While the trail is largely flat, the short ascent near the Burnfoot River may be difficult for visitors with limited mobility, and there are no formally managed wheelchair-accessible paths on the reserve.
Ferry crossing & rail routes
The Greencastle–Magilligan ferry is the shortcut across the mouth of the lough, turning a 90-minute drive round by Derry into a 10- to 15-minute hop and linking the Wild Atlantic Way with the Causeway Coastal Route. It runs seasonally, roughly spring through summer; after a spell out of service it is due back in spring 2026, so check the operator before you build a day around it. A car with passengers is from €20, cyclists and motorbikes €5, and campervans, motorhomes and caravans €25–€30.
Rail is the other scenic approach. NI Railways runs along the lough’s eastern shore between Derry~Londonderry and Belfast, with uninterrupted views of the water. Castlerock station is a short walk from the shore and a handy gateway to Mussenden Temple; Bellarena is a useful stop for exploring the eastern shoreline.
Cultural Stops & Accommodation
- Northburg Castle (Greencastle) – 13th-century ruins overlooking the water, accessible via a short coastal path.
- Inishowen Maritime Museum & Planetarium – Located in the former coastguard station at Greencastle, the museum covers local shipwrecks, the Spanish Armada and 19th-century emigration, all set against panoramic lough views.
- Redcastle Golf & Spa Hotel (Moville) – A 4-star waterfront resort on the lough’s southern shore, suitable for visitors planning an overnight stay.
- The Castle Inn (Greencastle) – A waterside restaurant specialising in locally sourced seafood, ideal for a meal after a coastal walk.
Fishing & Aquaculture
Commercial and recreational fishing have long defined life around Lough Foyle. In 1613, the Honourable Irish Society was granted salmon and eel fishing rights as part of the Plantation of Ulster. Modern conservation measures have banned commercial salmon netting to protect declining stocks, but Greencastle and Moville remain active ports for other species.
The lough supports several licensed aquaculture activities:
- Native flat oysters: Harvested from the shallow seabed by around 50–60 licensed fishers, yielding 100–150 tonnes annually.
- Pacific oysters: Introduced in 1965, now farmed on thousands of trestles, though expansion is currently limited by jurisdictional licensing.
- Blue mussels: Cultivated on ropes and trestles, with potential for further growth.
- Recreational angling: Rod licences are available through the Loughs Agency. Anglers target sea trout, cod and other coastal species from the shore, local boats or the rivers feeding the estuary.
Getting There & Practical Information
By road: The A2 from Derry-Londonderry leads directly to the Magilligan ferry terminal. From the Republic side, the N13 runs to Greencastle. Both routes are clearly signed for the ferry and trailheads. By rail: The Belfast–Derry line stops at Castlerock and Bellarena, both within walking distance of the shoreline. By bus: Ulsterbus services connect Derry with Magilligan, while Bus Éireann routes reach Greencastle via Derry and Letterkenny. Timetables vary seasonally, so check schedules before travelling.
Facilities & visitor notes: Manage your expectations at the reserve – there is no visitor centre and no staff on site, and you watch from lay-bys rather than hides. Don’t count on toilets here; use the facilities in Ballykelly or Derry before you come. Parking is limited to free lay-bys and the small car parks at the trailheads and ferry terminals. Dogs are welcome if kept under control, and assistance dogs are permitted. Ferry times change seasonally, so confirm before travelling.
Arrive an hour or so before high tide, when the rising water pushes the wading birds up close to the road. It is the single best trick for seeing them here.