Overview
Gullaba Hill is a walk for people who already know what they’re doing on Irish hills. There is no marked path to the top; it’s a pathless, boggy 603-metre summit that rewards a long day with map and compass and punishes a casual one. Its Irish name, Cnoc Ghullaba, means roughly ‘hill of the beak or snout’, after the blunt buttress on the nearby Caoinkeen cliffs. It rises on the Kerry–Cork border in the Shehy–Knockboy hills south of Kilgarvan in County Kerry, listed on the Arderin, Vandeleur-Lynam, Myrddyn Dewey and Simm classifications as the 277th highest summit in Ireland. It has none of the fame – or the crowds – of the higher Kerry peaks, and that emptiness is the draw.
The Walk & What to Expect
The usual round is a loop of roughly 14 km taking about six hours – the Irish Times has it at six hours; the exact distance varies with the line you take. The terrain shifts between boggy boulder-clay, fine grass and patches of heather, with two wet cols on the ridge that need careful route-finding. The first kilometre follows a forest path before joining a cut drainage channel that leads up to the main ridge, and from there the ground climbs steadily to the 603 m summit.
The views from the top justify the effort. Looking south-east, you can trace the skyline to Knockboy (706 m), the highest peak in County Cork. To the west, the panorama sweeps across the Kenmare harbour coastline and reaches the distant, layered peaks of the Iveragh Peninsula. Northwards, the oddly shaped Bird Hill (412 m) breaks the horizon. In summer, the grassy summit is often dotted with bog cotton, its white blooms standing out against the green and brown terrain.
Early in the loop, the trail skirts the edge of Lough Akinkeen, backed by the sheer Caoinkeen cliffs. Further along, a short detour drops into the valley holding Coumyfaun Lake, known for its unusual surface patterns, while a 100 m descent northward leads to Coomclogherane Lake, set in a classic corrie.
Navigation & Route Options
A detailed OS Discovery Series map (sheet 85) is strongly recommended. The summit sits at grid reference W005 681, with the lower col at 567 m (grid reference V996 667). The two wet cols on the crest can be tricky in poor weather; experienced walkers usually skirt the marshiest patches by keeping to slightly higher ground.
For those seeking a longer day out, the standard loop can be combined with the neighbouring Knocknamanagh circuit. This extended trek covers roughly 14.39 miles (23.1 km) with 3,681 ft of ascent and takes about six and a half hours. The extended route offers an alternative approach via The Priest’s Leap and is well documented on hiking platforms like Hiiker.
Practical Information
- Access & Parking: The walk begins at a sharp bend south of Kilgarvan, where a small lay-by holds only three or four cars – if it’s full, there’s nowhere obvious to leave a car, so an early start matters. The start point is marked by a track heading toward Lough Akinkeen (grid reference 022 657).
- Facilities: There are no toilets, cafes or visitor centres on the hill. Plan to carry enough water and snacks for the full six hours.
- Season & Conditions: Classified as a “hard” route, Gullaba Hill demands sturdy walking boots, waterproof layers and a reliable sense of navigation. Weather on the Shehy–Knockboy tops changes quickly; the exposed ridge can be cold and windy, though on clear summer days the summit can become surprisingly warm.
- Cost: Entry is completely free.
- Safety: Hill-walking involves inherent risks. The route includes steep sections, peat bogs and exposed ridges, and the weather here changes quickly, so check the forecast before setting out and turn back if visibility drops or conditions deteriorate.
Summit Statistics
- Height: 603 m (1,978 ft)
- Prominence: 39 m
- Parent Summit: Knocknamanagh (Barrerneen)
- Range: Shehy / Knockboy
- Recommended Map: OS Discovery Series 85
Nearby Amenities
The village of Kilgarvan lies just 3 km to the south and offers a handful of B&Bs, a pub and a small shop for basic supplies. For a wider selection of restaurants, hotels and transport links, Kenmare is approximately 12 km east. Both towns make convenient bases for an early start, which is recommended to avoid afternoon cloud cover rolling in from the Atlantic and to secure a spot in the limited lay-by parking.