Overview
This is the walk for the day you’ve had enough of the coast. The Hymany Way runs up the western bank of the Shannon through the flat, watery middle of East Galway, from Portumna Bridge to the small town of Ballygar – a section of the Beara-Breifne Way, the long-distance route that traces Donal Cam O’Sullivan Beare’s 1603 march. Sport Ireland lists it at 98.3km and grades it moderate; you’ll see 80km quoted elsewhere, and Wikipedia still gives 50km for the original, shorter Portumna-to-Aughrim route, so take any single figure with a pinch of salt and plan by the stages below.
The reward here isn’t drama, it’s quiet. The path stays largely off-road along country lanes, forest tracks and bog footpaths, waymarked with a yellow arrow on a black background. There’s very little climbing – under 100m by the official figures – but that’s not the same as easy going: the bog sections turn heavy and slick after rain, and waterproof boots are not optional. Dogs are not permitted, to protect the livestock and ground-nesting birds.
The history along the way
The Hymany Way was officially opened in September 2010, but the ground it covers has witnessed centuries of Irish history. Most notably, the trail retraces a segment of the desperate 1603 march of Donal Cam O’Sullivan Beare and his followers. After the fall of Dunboy Castle in County Cork, roughly a thousand men, women, and children fled northwards through the winter, eventually reaching safety in Leitrim. Walking the Hymany Way means following the western bank of the River Shannon that the marchers once crossed, a journey that still carries a palpable sense of resilience.
Beyond the march, the trail passes some of Galway’s most significant heritage sites:
- Clonfert Cathedral: A 12th-century Romanesque masterpiece. Look out for the intricately carved doorway, the 15th-century baptismal font, and the striking 19th-century oak pulpit.
- Meelick Church: Often cited as the oldest Catholic church in Ireland still in regular use, its medieval stone walls hold centuries of local worship.
- Battle of Aughrim: The site of the bloodiest engagement of the Williamite War (1691). The nearby Battle of Aughrim Interpretative Centre offers excellent context for the clash that shaped modern Ireland.
- Blackloon Castle & Cloonigny Castle: Two very different fortifications. Blackloon is a compact 500-year-old tower house that remains a private home, while Cloonigny is a ruined 16th-century moated castle accompanied by a ringfort and souterrain.
Interpretive panels are placed at key waypoints – including the Shannon crossing, St Ruth’s Bush, and the cathedrals – so you can piece together the story as you walk without needing a guide.
Landscape & Wildlife
The first leg of the Hymany Way tracks the Shannon Callows, a vast floodplain that transforms with the seasons. In spring and early summer, the reed beds and wet grasslands become a sanctuary for birdlife. The area is internationally important, hosting over 40% of Ireland’s Corncrake population. If you walk quietly at dawn, you might catch the distinctive, rattling call of the Corncrake, along with sightings of Skylarks, Sedge Warblers, and Reed Buntings.
As the trail pushes inland, the landscape shifts to the rolling ridges of the Esker Riada, a massive glacial formation that stretches from Dublin to Galway. North of Aughrim, the path skirts the exposed face of the esker, offering sweeping views over the surrounding farmland. Further on, the route crosses Killure Bog and Loonaghton Bog. Declared Natural Heritage Areas, these raised bogs are peat-rich ecosystems supporting rare flora like Sundew and Bog Cotton, as well as a variety of dragonflies and moths.
Walking the Trail: Stages & Practicalities
Most walkers tackle the Hymany Way over four days, though the official route can be completed in three if you’re in good shape. The trail is easily broken down into manageable stages:
- Portumna to Meelick (17.2km): A gentle riverside start that introduces the Callows and ends at the historic Meelick Church.
- Meelick to Clonfert (7.4km): A short, scenic day linking two of Galway’s most important ecclesiastical sites.
- Clonfert to Ballinasloe (21km): The longest stage, taking you through mixed farmland and quiet villages before reaching the market town of Ballinasloe.
- Ballinasloe to Aughrim (13km): A steady walk through rural Galway, finishing at the Williamite battle site.
- Aughrim to Ballygar (≈22km): The final push across bogland and esker ridges to the trail’s official terminus.
For those wanting to extend their journey, an optional 19km leg continues north to Ahascragh, and a further 23km brings you back to Ballygar, creating a 100km loop. The Beara-Breifne Way also offers a walking passport; collect stamps at visitor centres in Portumna, Meelick, Clonfert, Ballinasloe, Aughrim, and Ballygar to receive a completion certificate.
Getting There & Resources
The trailhead at Portumna Bridge is accessible by car, with riverside parking available nearby. Public transport options include Bus Éireann and Kearns Transport, which run services from Dublin and Galway city. Mid-trail, Ballinasloe offers frequent bus connections, while the finish at Ballygar is served by Boyle Coaches and local Bus Éireann routes.
Accommodation is plentiful in Portumna and Ballinasloe, with a mix of hotels, guesthouses, and self-catering options. Smaller villages like Meelick and Clonfert offer cosy B&Bs. For wild campers, Meelick Harbour provides a scenic riverside spot, but always check local signage and seek landowner permission. Portumna Forest Park also has designated camping sites.
Trail conditions & safety Check the trail status before you set out: the section at Loonaghton Bog is closed until further notice, not just occasionally, and you’ll need to follow the posted diversions or ring the Rural Recreation Officer on 086 262 2306 to confirm the current route. Bog sections are slippery after heavy rain, so waterproof boots are essential. Mobile coverage is patchy in the bogland and forest, so carry a physical map – OSI Discovery Series sheets 40, 47 and 53 cover the full route, and free PDF stage maps are on the Sport Ireland site. The trail is managed by Aughrim Development Company (hymanyway@gmail.com), a useful first contact for access queries.
If you do just one stage, make it the opening leg from Portumna: it’s the flattest, it follows the river, and it puts you in the Callows at the right hour. Set out at first light in late spring and you may hear the corncrake before you see anything at all.