Overview
This is a valley carved by ice, a U-shaped glacial trough in Connemara with the Twelve Bens rising to the west and the Maumturk range to the east. The floor is peat moorland, lakes and sheep-grazed fields, with Lough Inagh and Derryclare Lough the largest of the water. The R344 runs the length of it, and the drive alone is the reason most people come.
History and background
Little has ever settled on the valley floor, but the hills carry pilgrimage and folklore. The Maumeen Pass, just over 250 m, was an ancient shrine and later a mass-rock during the Penal Laws. A small chapel to St Patrick marks the site now, and an annual pilgrimage on the first Sunday of August still draws people up to the pass.
The valley holds older marks too. A Bronze Age stone row, three pairs of standing stones, was recorded near the north-eastern end of Lough Inagh, and the remains of a lake-dwelling on Mans Island are thought to have once controlled traffic on the water.
The drive
The R344 links the N59 between Recess and Kylemore and is the spine of the valley, with views of the lakes, the Twelve Bens and the open peatland. The pull-out near Derryclare Lough frames the pine-crowned islet that every Connemara calendar seems to use.
Walking and hiking
The Western Way long-distance trail comes through the valley, dropping from Mám Éan, passing the lakes and turning north for Killary Harbour.
- Mám Éan (Mamean) Pass – a climb to the shrine and chapel, with views back across the valley floor.
- Derryclare Horseshoe – a demanding 13.5 km loop with 900 m of ascent from Derryclare Lough, taking in Bencorragh Beg, Bencorragh and Derryclare. The route runs through the Derryclare Nature Reserve, 19 hectares of oak woodland with red squirrels and native birds. This is a full mountain day, not a stroll; pick a clear forecast.
Fishing
The Lough Inagh & Derryclare Fishery is fly water for spring salmon, grilse, sea trout and brown trout. Normal hours run 9.30am to 7pm, with three angling piers reaching onto Derryclare Lough and boats for hire through Lough Inagh Lodge. You need a State fishing licence and local permits.
Seasonal notes
- Spring – the heather slopes start to green and the days lengthen, giving clear views to the peaks.
- Summer – the lakes mirror the mountains; early mornings are best for walking.
- Autumn – the peatland turns orange and gold, with low light picking out the Maumturk ridges.
- Winter – stark skies and the bare ridges of Sléibhte Mhám Toirc, and the valley to yourself.
Practical information
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Access | Drive the R344 from the N59 at Recess. The road is narrow; drive with care. |
| Parking | At the entrance to Derryclare Nature Reserve and at roadside pull-outs. |
| Opening hours | Open year-round. |
| Admission | Free of charge. |
| Facilities | None within the reserve; carry your own supplies. |
| Public transport | Galway–Clifden buses stop at Recess, near the southern junction of the R344. |
| GPS coordinates | 53.520602, -9.741667 |
Getting there
From Galway City, take the N59 west toward Clifden and turn onto the R344 at Recess; the drive is about 45 minutes. You can also enter from the north off the N59 near Kylemore Abbey, which lets you make a loop through Connemara.
Nearby attractions
- Aughnanure Castle – a well-preserved 16th-century tower house near Oughterard, east of Recess. (aughnanure-castle)
- The Quiet Man Bridge – the stone bridge from the 1952 film, off the N59.
- Kylemore Abbey – the Victorian abbey and walled gardens at the northern end of the loop.
- Connemara National Park – at Letterfrack, with the climb up Diamond Hill.
For the best of it in an hour, drive the R344 north from Recess and stop at the Derryclare pull-out; for a full day, take on the horseshoe.