Overview
Situated just 3–5 km off the western tip of the Mullet Peninsula, the twin Inishkea Islands (Inis Cé) feel worlds away from the mainland. Their low-lying machair grasslands, fine white sand, and striking silver-green schist ridges create a landscape that shifts constantly with the light and tide. Though privately owned, the islands welcome visitors via a handful of locally run boat operators from Belmullet and Glengad. Without roads, cars, or modern utilities, a visit offers a rare step back in time to an Atlantic island community shaped entirely by the sea.
History & The Lost Village
Human presence on the Inishkeas stretches back at least 5,000 years. The earliest traces are found in the Neolithic burial mounds known as the Baileys on Inishkea North. By the 6th century, an early Christian monastic settlement had taken root, leaving behind beehive huts (clocháns), a small stone church, and intricately carved cross-slabs. One slab, dating to the late 7th century, features a rare stylised crucifixion scene that speaks to the artistic skill of the island monks.
For centuries, a tight-knit Gaelic-speaking fishing community thrived here. At its peak in the 19th century, up to 380 people lived across both islands. They maintained a school, a shop, a shebeen, and a distinctive two-storey building known locally as the “King’s House”. The islanders were resourceful, crafting purple dye from dog-whelk shells and venerating a terracotta “Godstone” (Naomhóg) believed to calm storms and ensure good potato harvests.
The 20th century brought both industry and hardship. Between 1908 and 1914, a Norwegian company operated a whaling station on the tidal islet of Rusheen. The concrete pier and corrugated-iron foundations still emerge at low tide, a stark reminder of a brief commercial chapter. Tragedy ultimately ended the island’s permanent habitation. In October 1927, a sudden Atlantic storm drowned ten young fishermen. The devastating loss, combined with economic hardship, led to the evacuation of the remaining residents in the early 1930s. Today, the empty stone cottages stand as quiet monuments to a community that once called these windswept shores home.
What to See & Do
A visit to Inishkea is largely about walking, wandering, and soaking in the atmosphere. The islands are compact but packed with points of interest:
- Inishkea North: Focuses on the ancient monastic site. Walk among the ruins of St Colmcille’s church, explore the Bailey Mór burial mound, and examine the weathered cross-slabs. The surrounding machair is ideal for spotting wildflowers and nesting birds.
- Inishkea South: Once the heart of the fishing village. Trace the paths between the abandoned stone cottages, visit the old schoolhouse and King’s House, and climb Alt Mór hill for sweeping views of the Erris coastline and the Atlantic horizon.
- Rusheen Island: A small tidal islet connected to the mainland at low tide. The remnants of the Norwegian whaling station are visible here, offering a fascinating glimpse into early 20th-century maritime industry.
Most visitors combine their island time with a sea safari. Small RIB tours navigate the clear waters around the islands, often stopping for a swim or to watch marine life from the boat. Guided walks are occasionally available, led by local descendants who share oral histories of the village life, the monastic past, and the legends of St Kea and St Colmcille.
The Inishkea Islands sit on a major migratory flyway, making them a haven for birdwatchers. Grey seals are the most visible residents, with roughly one-third of Ireland’s population using these waters for breeding and pupping. The best time to see newborn pups is May and June.
Birdlife is abundant year-round but peaks during spring and autumn migrations. Look out for peregrine falcons diving from the schist cliffs, barnacle geese grazing on the machair, and wading birds like dunlin and lapwings along the shorelines. Little terns nest on the sandy beaches in summer, so it’s important to stay on marked paths during nesting season. Dolphins, porpoises, and occasionally basking sharks or minke whales can be spotted from the boat or the higher ground on the islands.
Getting There & Practical Tips
- Boat Services: Ferries depart from Belmullet and Glengad. Operators include Blacksod Sea Safari, Belmullet Boat Charters, and Mullet Peninsula Boat Service. Services run seasonally, typically from May to September, with daily trips in July and August. Booking in advance is highly recommended, especially on weekends.
- What to Expect: There are no facilities on the islands – no shops, toilets, or cafés. Bring your own water, food, and a reusable bag for all litter. Sturdy walking shoes are essential, as the terrain includes uneven stone paths, soft sand, and rocky outcrops.
- Weather & Safety: Atlantic weather changes quickly. Even in summer, a waterproof jacket and wind layer are wise. Tides around Rusheen Island can be strong and unpredictable; only approach the whaling pier at low tide and under the guidance of your boat crew. Swimming is best done in sheltered bays and only if conditions are calm.
- Admission: There is no entry fee for the islands themselves. Costs cover the boat crossing and any guided elements, typically ranging from €25 to €40 per person depending on the operator.
Nearby Attractions
The Inishkea Islands make an excellent addition to a north Mayo itinerary. After your boat trip, you can easily reach other local highlights:
- Ballycroy National Park: A short drive inland, featuring vast blanket bogs, ancient oak woods, and the challenging Bangor Trail.
- Belmullet: The gateway to the islands, offering a vibrant Gaeltacht atmosphere, local craft shops, and the Mullet Heritage Centre.
- Glencastle: A historic coastal village with ruined castles and dramatic cliff walks along the Wild Atlantic Way.
Plan your visit for a quiet morning crossing, allowing at least two to three hours on the islands to explore the monastic ruins and abandoned village at your own pace. Check the tide tables and weather forecast before booking, as sea conditions directly impact departure times.