Overview
On the night of 28 October 1927 a sudden Atlantic storm caught the Inishkea fishing fleet at sea and drowned ten young islanders. It was the beginning of the end for the community, and within a few years the twin Inishkea Islands (Inis Cé) were empty. They lie three to five kilometres off the western tip of the Mullet Peninsula, low sheets of white sand and machair over silver-green schist ridges, with no roads, cars or utilities. Today a few people are back on the islands, three living here year-round and about fifteen through the summer, and a handful of local boat operators run visitors across from the Mullet.
History & The Lost Village
Human presence on the Inishkeas stretches back at least 5,000 years, to the Neolithic burial mounds known as the Baileys on Inishkea North. An early Christian monastic settlement associated with St Colmcille had taken root by the 7th century, leaving behind beehive huts (clocháns), a small stone church and carved cross-slabs. One late 7th-century slab carries a rare stylised crucifixion scene.
For centuries a Gaelic-speaking fishing community lived here, up to 380 people at its 19th-century peak, with a school, a shop, a shebeen and the two-storey house known locally as the “King’s House”. They made purple dye from dog-whelk shells and venerated a terracotta “Godstone” (Naomhóg) believed to calm storms and secure a good potato crop; a priest eventually ordered it broken and thrown into the sea. During the Great Famine, deprivation drove some islanders to piracy, rowing out in currachs to intercept passing cargo vessels.
Industry arrived in 1908, when a Norwegian company built a whaling station on the tidal islet of Rusheen (Norway had banned whaling in its own waters in 1904). It ran until at least the outbreak of the First World War in 1914, and some sources say on to 1922; the concrete pier and iron foundations still surface at low tide. Then came the storm of October 1927 that drowned ten young men. The loss broke the community, and the last inhabitants were evacuated in 1932, leaving the roofless cottages that stand today.
What to See & Do
A visit to Inishkea is mostly about walking and looking. The islands are small but full of things to stop at, and if you only do one thing, walk the abandoned village on Inishkea South and then out to the seal beaches. Discover Ireland suggests planning for four to five hours ashore, which is about right once the crossing is counted.
- Inishkea North: Focuses on the ancient monastic site. Walk among the ruins of St Colmcille’s church, explore the Bailey Mór burial mound, and examine the weathered cross-slabs. The surrounding machair is ideal for spotting wildflowers and nesting birds.
- Inishkea South: Once the heart of the fishing village. Trace the paths between the abandoned stone cottages, visit the old schoolhouse and King’s House, and climb Alt Mór hill for sweeping views of the Erris coastline and the Atlantic horizon.
- Rusheen Island: A small tidal islet connected to the mainland at low tide, where the remains of the Norwegian whaling station surface, a stark trace of early 20th-century industry.
Most visitors combine their island time with a sea safari. Small RIB tours navigate the clear waters around the islands, often stopping for a swim or to watch marine life from the boat. Guided walks are occasionally available, led by local descendants who share oral histories of the village life, the monastic past, and the legends of St Kea and St Colmcille.
The islands are a Special Protection Area and a Natural Heritage Area, and they sit on a major migratory flyway. Grey seals are the most visible residents: roughly a third of Ireland’s Atlantic population breeds here, with around 150 pups born each year. The pupping season runs from mid-September to the end of October, so autumn, not summer, is the time to see newborns.
Birdlife peaks on the spring and autumn migrations. Up to 3,000 barnacle geese winter on the machair between October and April, and you may see peregrine falcons off the schist cliffs and waders like dunlin and lapwing along the shore. Little terns nest on the sandy beaches in summer, so keep to marked paths in nesting season. Dolphins, porpoises and the occasional basking shark or minke whale turn up around the boat or off the higher ground.
Getting There & Practical Tips
- Boat Services: Boats cross from Blacksod Pier at the southern tip of the Mullet, a run of about 35 minutes, with free parking at the pier. Operators include Blacksod Sea Safari, Belmullet Boat Charters, Wild West Boat Tours (formerly Geraghty Charters) and Mullet Peninsula Boat Service. Sailings run daily in June, July and August and at weekends in May and September, all weather dependent, so book ahead and expect cancellations when the Atlantic turns. Belmullet Boat Charters runs guided walks led by descendants of the island families.
- Dogs: Dogs are no longer allowed on Inishkea, under National Parks and Wildlife Service rules.
- What to Expect: There are no facilities on the islands, no shops, toilets or cafés. Bring your own water, food and a bag for all litter, and wear sturdy shoes for uneven stone paths, soft sand and rock.
- Weather & Safety: Atlantic weather changes quickly; even in summer, pack a waterproof and a wind layer. Tides around Rusheen can be strong, so only approach the whaling pier at low tide and on your crew’s guidance. Swim only in sheltered bays and only when it’s calm.
- Admission: There’s no fee for the islands themselves; you pay for the crossing. Blacksod Sea Safari, for example, charges around €40 per adult and €25 per child; other operators’ prices vary, so check before booking.
Nearby Attractions
The Inishkea Islands make an excellent addition to a north Mayo itinerary. After your boat trip, you can easily reach other local highlights:
- Ballycroy National Park: A short drive inland, featuring vast blanket bogs, ancient oak woods, and the challenging Bangor Trail.
- Belmullet: The Gaeltacht gateway town, with craft shops, places to eat and the Mullet Heritage Centre.
- Glencastle: A historic coastal village with ruined castles and dramatic cliff walks along the Wild Atlantic Way.
Take the morning crossing if you can, and give yourself the full four or five hours ashore rather than a rushed couple: the village and the seal beaches sit at opposite ends of the islands. Check the forecast before you book, because the weather, not the timetable, decides whether the boat sails at all.