Overview
The Mullet Peninsula (an Mhuirthead) juts out of north-west County Mayo, forming a dog-legged promontory between Blacksod Bay and Broadhaven Bay. Stretching roughly 30 km long and 12 km wide, it narrows to just 50 metres at its thinnest point near Elly Bay. With a population of just under 4,000, the area is a sparsely settled Gaeltacht where Irish is heard daily in villages such as Belmullet, Aughleam, Elly and Binghamstown. Its quartzite cliffs, sweeping sand dunes, four historic lighthouses and a string of award-winning beaches make it a standout segment of the Wild Atlantic Way.
History & Heritage
The peninsula’s name may derive from the Irish muileat (“the isthmus”) or from an English reference to the fish-shaped heraldic mullet. Human presence dates back to the 5th-century monastic settlement of St Brendan on Inishglora, and the early Christian church of St Dairbhile, whose well is still reputed to cure eye ailments. The Spanish Armada ship La Rata Santa Maria Encoronada sank off Blacksod Bay in 1588, its wreck still a point of interest for divers.
Napoleonic-era signal towers dot the coastline, with Glosh Tower on Termon Hill being the most visible. Medieval ruins include Cross Abbey (c. 1200 AD) overlooking the sea, and the early-Christian St Dervla Chapel and a solitary high-cross near the southern tip. The Ionad Deirbhile Heritage Centre in Aughleam has been expanded into Solas – the Light Visitor Centre. Solas showcases the peninsula’s geology, language, emigration stories and maritime heritage, with exhibits on the four lighthouses, a traditional currach and a historic lighthouse lens.
Sculpture Trail & Landscape Art
Since 1993 the North Mayo Sculpture Trail (Tír Sáile) has operated as the largest public arts project in Ireland. Four permanent sculptures are scattered across the peninsula, including the striking Travis Price blow-hole sculpture at Doonamo Point. Near Fallmore lies Deirble’s Twist, a large stone circle that forms a quiet contemplative spot on the southern edge of the peninsula.
Coastal Walks & Island Escapes
The peninsula rewards slow travel. Key stops include:
- Erris Head Loop: A 5 km coastal walk offering dramatic Atlantic vistas, a WWII “EIRE” sign, and chances to hear the rare corncrake. The trailhead is off the R313 near Belmullet with free parking. Dogs are not permitted due to sheep grazing.
- Annagh Head: Features 1.75-billion-year-old bedrock and views of Eagle Island and the mythic Inishglora. A short walk from the car park.
- Doonamo Point: Home to Travis Price’s 2002 sculpture commemorating lost seafarers and a powerful blow-hole at high tide. Parking and a pedestrian gate are at the cliff-top; always stay behind the safety rail.
- Glosh Tower: A 19th-century signal tower with panoramic views of Blacksod Bay and interior dunes. Reach it by walking up Termon Hill from the nearby car park.
- St Dairbhile’s Church & Well: A ruined medieval church and holy well reputed to cure eye problems, a short drive south from Aughleam.
- Lighthouses: Blacksod Lighthouse (1865) offers 30-minute guided tours for €7 per person. Ballyglass Lighthouse sits on the north-eastern tip, while Eagle Island Lighthouse stands 1 km off the north-west coast, best viewed from Doonamo Point.
- Inishkea Islands: Uninhabited islands featuring 6th-century monastic ruins, stone cottages, and seal colonies that produce around 300 pups annually. Full-day boat trips cost €40, half-day €25, departing from Blacksod Pier.
- Inishglora Island: An early-Christian monastic site with beehive huts, St Brendan’s Well and cross slabs, linked to the Children of Lir legend. Seasonal boat services depart from Blacksod Pier.
- Beaches: Elly Bay (sheltered, Blue Flag), Mullaghroe (surf-friendly, Blue Flag), Belderra Strand, Cross Strand, Emlybeg, and the tidal Barranagh Island. Most have free parking; Mullaghroe’s car park is small and not wheelchair-accessible.
Wildlife & Nature
The peninsula is a designated Special Protection Area. Summer visitors may hear the plaintive “crex-crex” of the endangered corncrake, spot gannets, shearwaters and wintering barnacle geese, or watch grey seals and occasional dolphins from the Inishkea boat tours. The Stags of Broadhaven – a quartet of steep rocky islands off Benwee Head – host large seabird colonies and are easily spotted from the coast.
Practical Information
Getting there: The nearest airport is Ireland West Airport Knock. Drive the N59 to Ballina, then follow the R313 into Belmullet. The narrow isthmus connecting the peninsula to the mainland is well-signed.
Public transport: Bus Éireann route 446 runs daily (including Sundays) between Ballina and Belmullet, with a single service each way and an extra Friday-evening run from Ballina. Connections to other towns like Crossmolina and Bellacorick are available at Ballina.
Parking: Most beaches and trailheads have free car parks. Mullaghroe’s car park is limited; early arrival in summer is advisable. The Benwee Head car park has a short, steep access road suitable for most vehicles but not large coaches.
Accommodation: Options range from dormer bungalows near Elly Beach (€120/night, includes sauna) to self-catering cottages, glamping pods on Claggan Island, and hotels like the Talbot Hotel in Belmullet. Carne Golf Links also offers on-site lodging.
Admission & Fees: Blacksod Lighthouse tours are €7 per person. Inishkea boat trips run €40 full-day / €25 half-day. Solas Visitor Centre is free. Check websites for current opening hours and lesson rates at local adventure centres.
Seasonality: May to September offers the mildest weather, longest daylight, and the best chance to hear corncrakes. Boat tours to the islands run through the summer season; some facilities like lifeguard-supervised pools operate only in peak months.
Language & Etiquette: Irish is the everyday language in the Gaeltacht; road signs and many shop owners use Irish. A simple “Dia dhuit” is warmly welcomed. Seals and seabirds are protected – keep a respectful distance. Dogs are not permitted on Erris Head and some other grazing areas.
Nearby detours: Consider a day-trip to the Bangor Trail for a rugged inland walk, or visit Belmullet for shops, pubs and the tidal pool. The Aasleagh Falls and Ashford Falconry School are also within easy driving distance.
Plan your visit around the tide tables for the island ferries, and pack a waterproof layer regardless of the season – the Atlantic weather on the Mullet Peninsula shifts quickly, but the coastal light is worth every detour.