Kells Bay Gardens – tree ferns by the sea

Overview

The Primeval Forest here holds hundreds of Dicksonia antarctica tree ferns, some dating to the 19th century, and it is among the largest tree-fern forests in the northern hemisphere. That it grows at all on the Ring of Kerry is down to the Gulf Stream, which keeps this V-shaped valley mild enough for palms, bamboo and succulents from the Southern Hemisphere. Kells Bay House & Gardens sits on the Wild Atlantic Way overlooking Dingle Bay, built round a 19th-century Victorian hunting lodge.

History

Rowland Blennerhassett built the hunting lodge for the Blennerhassett Estate in the 1800s. The Ladies’ Walled Garden was laid out in the 1870s for Lady Mary Blennerhassett and keeps its three-level terraced shape. In the early 2000s Billy and Penn Alexander bought the place. Billy, an RHS Chelsea Flower Show gold medallist, sources plants from around the world; Penn runs the dining. They turned the house into a four-star boutique guesthouse and opened the grounds as a public garden.

What to see

The gardens

• Palm & Succulent Garden – yuccas and succulents on a terrace above the bay.
• Ladies’ Walled Garden – three terraced levels of tree ferns and plants from Australia, New Zealand and South America.
• Primeval Forest – the tree-fern forest, with its hundreds of Dicksonia antarctica.
• Bamboo Glade – over 60 species of bamboo from the Americas and Asia, with a timber Wishing Chair.
• Gunnera Pool – giant rhubarb-like leaves over peaty water, with dragonflies.
• River Ramble – a fast stream past moss-covered stones and ferns, crossed by the SkyWalk, a 112ft rope bridge.
• Cliff Walk – views of Dingle Bay and Cnoc na dTobar, with wooden dinosaurs carved from storm-blown timber.
• Waterfall Way & Bog Walk – a loop over a waterfall and a boardwalk through bog, planted with New Zealand and Australian species.

If you have an hour, head for the Primeval Forest and the SkyWalk and skip the rest: the tree ferns are what the place is known for, and the rope bridge keeps children moving.

The house

The 1800s lodge has been restored, with nine guesthouse rooms looking onto the garden, mountains or sea, each with a private entrance and free garden entry.

• The Alexander Room – large, with windows onto the gardens, mountains and bay.
• The Bell Tower Suite – two bedrooms over two floors, with stone-carved steps.
• The Dingle Bay Suite – private entrance, two king bedrooms, direct access to Kells Beach.
• The Bay View Room – front-facing garden and sea views with private outdoor seating.

All rooms have Wi-Fi, tea facilities, en-suite bathrooms and resident parking.

Eating

• Sala Thai Restaurant – chef-owner Penn Alexander cooks Thai food with local produce. Lunch 13.00–16.00 (no booking); dinner 18.00–20.00 (book ahead). A Thai kitchen in a Kerry hunting lodge is the surprise of the place.
• Garden Room Café – open during garden hours for tea, coffee, scones and sandwiches. No ticket needed for the café.

Shop

The on-site Plant Centre sells tree ferns, palms and other exotics grown on the estate, and a boutique carries limited-edition botanical prints by Susan Sex and Pauline Bewick.

Extras

• SkyWalk rope bridge – the long rope bridge, a hit with families.
• Dinosaur sculptures – eight life-size wooden dinosaurs along the Primeval Forest trails.
• Blue Flag Kells Beach – a sandy beach a short walk away, used for swimming.
• Outdoor Pursuits will arrange horse riding, cycling, mountaineering, fishing and tee times at nearby links courses (Dooks, Waterville, Hogs Head).

Practical information

Booking – garden tickets and rooms book online via the Kells Bay website, and dinner reservations go through the same site.

One honest note: the SkyWalk and dinosaurs make this a hit with children, but anyone coming purely for the planting should know the forest trails can be muddy and the gardens are at their lushest from late spring on.

Getting there

Address: Kells, Cahersiveen, Co. Kerry, V23 EP48. The estate is 11km north of Cahersiveen on the N70 Ring of Kerry road.

• By car – free parking on site.
• Public transport – buses stop at Kells in summer, a 5-minute walk from the entrance.
• Dogs – welcome throughout the grounds on short leads.

Accessibility

The main garden paths are level, but some forest trails have uneven ground and steps. Wheelchair users will find the lower Palm & Succulent Garden and the café easiest.

Nearby

Kells Bay works as a base for the Skellig Islands, the Kerry Way, Ballycarbery Castle and the golf links at Dooks and Waterville. Blue Flag Kells Beach is a few minutes’ walk from the gardens.