Kenmare Bay – Kerry's drowned fjord

Overview

Kenmare Bay is a fjord, not a river, despite the older name Kenmare River that you’ll still see on maps. It runs roughly 55 km between the Iveragh Peninsula to the north and the Beara Peninsula to the south, a drowned glacial valley cut into Old Red Sandstone. Most of the shoreline is in County Kerry, with a small southwestern tip in County Cork. The ‘river’ label was a legal fiction once used to protect fishing rights; the water is salt. At the head of the bay sits the town of Kenmare, a gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way and the Ring of Kerry.

The bay is fed by the Roughty River (An Ruachtach) and smaller streams including the Sheen, Slaheny and Blackwater, all holding sea trout and salmon.

History and landscape

The inlet’s older Irish name, Inbhear Scéine, appears in the 11th-century Lebor Gabála Érenn as the landing place of the mythic ancestor Partholón. The town’s name, Ceann Mhara, ‘head of the sea’, marks its position at the furthest inland reach of the Atlantic.

Kenmare town was formally founded in 1670 when the land was granted to Sir William Petty, though the sheltered waters had drawn Viking raiders long before. In 1841 a suspension bridge was built here, said to be the world’s first of its kind, linking the town to the country beyond. The Great Famine of the 1840s hit hard and left a mass grave on the edge of town. Recovery came in 1861 when nuns led by Sister Mary Frances Cusack introduced Kenmare Lace, a craft that gave local women an income and is still made today.

Geologically the bay is a classic glacial fjord, its steep sides dotted with islands: Dunkerron, Greenane, Rossdohan, Garinish, Inishkeragh and more. The whole area is a Special Area of Conservation (SAC), protecting wild salmon, otter, lesser horseshoe bat and the only known Irish population of the northern sea fan.

Wildlife

Common seals haul out on the rocks and bottlenose dolphins ride the waves; arctic terns, gulls and cormorants gather around the spring salmon run. Otters and a wide range of marine invertebrates live here too, and re-introduced white-tailed eagles now nest on the surrounding cliffs. Summer gives the best odds for dolphins; autumn brings quieter water.

What to see and do

The bay is water, so the honest answer is to get out on it; the views from the N71 are fine, but they don’t show you the seals or the islands. A wildlife cruise from the town pier is the easy default. A kayak gets you closer to the haul-out rocks if your arms are up for it, and divers have the kelp reefs more or less to themselves.

Boat cruises and rib trips

Several operators combine wildlife commentary with the scenery.

• Kenmare Bay Cruises – depart Kenmare Pier aboard the Island Explorer, with indoor and outdoor seating, a snack bar and live narration. More at https://www.discoverireland.ie/kerry/kenmare-bay-cruises.
• Seafari Cruises – seal-watching, eagle-spotting and eco-nature tours from the town harbour, on quiet-running vessels that suit photography.
• Star Outdoors – day cruises circling the bay with views to the Caha and MacGillycuddy’s Reeks.
• RibTrips – inflatable rib tours from Wavecrest Caravan & Campsite, Glanbeg, including ‘Wavecrest to Kilmacillogue’ (3.5h) and a seal, whale and dolphin watch (3h). Phone 087 290 6229, http://www.ribtrips.ie/.
• Skellig Tours – from Derrynane Harbour, passing the Deenish and Scariff islands before a 2.5-hour stop at Skellig Michael. Phone +353 86 689 8431, https://www.facebook.com/skelligtours.

Kayaking

Kayak rentals are available at the Parknasilla Hotel pier and through Sunfish Explorer Tours, which run motor-assisted kayaks for an easier glide across the calmer water.

Diving

For certified divers, Kenmare Bay Diving offers PADI courses and guided dives among the bay’s kelp forests and rocky reefs.

Fishing

Both Kenmare Bay Diving and the Skellig operators run sport-fishing trips, from reef and drift fishing for pollock, mackerel and cod to deep-sea angling for conger, skate and shark (catch-and-release).

Walking and hiking

The Kerry Way skirts the bay in several sections.

• Stage 7 (Staigue River to Sneem) – 11 km, moderate, with coastal views.
• Stage 8 (Sneem to Tahilla to Blackwater Bridge) – two easy 10 km sections hugging the shore.
• Old Kenmare Road – a 16 km historic route from Kenmare to Torc Waterfall, across mixed sea, lake and woodland terrain.
• Gleninchaquin Park – a loop with waterfalls, log bridges and picnic spots.

A self-guided town walk runs 3.6 km, mostly flat, starting at the stone circle and passing Reenagross Woodland Park’s rhododendron tunnel before returning to the centre (about 1.5h). The route is marked on the Kenmare Tourist Information Centre map.

Cycling

Kenmare is a base for cyclists. Routes include the Molls Gap Circuit (57 km, moderate to challenging) and the easier Kilgarvan Loop (25 km) back to Kenmare via coastal roads. Bike hire is available in town and at several holiday cottages.

Star Outdoors adventure centre

On the shore of the bay, Star Outdoors runs land and water activities: Sea Safari rib rides, a Wild Atlantic Water Park with slides and trampolines, archery, paintball, the Gauntlet obstacle course and crazy golf. It’s family-friendly and open year-round.

Town attractions

• Kenmare Stone Circle – a Bronze-Age circle a short walk from the centre, known locally as ‘The Shrubberies’.
• Reenagross Woodland Park – a quiet park whose rhododendron tunnels turn purple in late spring.
• Tom Crean Brewery – tours marking the explorer’s legacy, with craft-beer tastings.
• Molly Gallivan’s Cottage & Traditional Farm – a 200-year-old thatched cottage on historic rural life.
• Bonane Heritage Park – Stone, Bronze and Iron Age sites, 15 minutes south of Kenmare.
• Kissane Sheep Farm – sheep-dog demonstrations and seasonal lambing.
• Park Hotel Kenmare – known for its afternoon tea.
• Pubs for trad – Crowley’s runs traditional sessions; Florry Batt’s on Henry Street is a reliable spot for a pint and music.

Horse riding and golf

Dromquinna Stables and River Valley Stables offer pony-trekking along the coast. Golfers can play the Ring of Kerry Golf Club or the older Kenmare Golf Club, both with sea views.

Conservation

The bay is a Special Area of Conservation, and the protections are taken seriously: in September 2025 Inland Fisheries Ireland seized over 1,000 illegally harvested oysters at Cuis Strand, Templenoe. Mind size limits and licensing, and report anything that looks off.

The Kenmare Bay Hotel & Resort, a short walk from the centre, runs what it says is Ireland’s largest EV-charging hub with 50 points. Parking is free for guests and the public.

Nearby attractions

• Ahamore Abbey – an early medieval ecclesiastical ruin on Abbey Island in Derrynane, reachable on foot across a sand spit at low tide. (/ahamore-abbey/)
• Derrynane House – the home of Daniel O’Connell, on a peninsula jutting into the bay.
• Gleninchaquin Park – waterfalls and woodland walks near the water’s edge.
• Bonane Heritage Park – the archaeological complex a short drive away. (/bonane/)

Events and festivals

• Kenmare Lace Festival – workshops, exhibitions and market stalls celebrating the town’s lace-making.
• Pattern Day – 15 August, a street market trading crafts, food and antiques.
• Halloween Howl – a week of October parades, workshops and family activities.
• Seasonal boat regattas and wildlife weeks run each summer; check dates with the Kenmare Tourist Information Centre.

Practical information

There’s no admission fee for the water or the SAC. Most boat operators run daily from late spring to early autumn, with peak season (June to August) needing advance booking.

Getting there

Kenmare is on the N71, a short detour from both the Ring of Kerry (anti-clockwise) and the Ring of Beara. The nearest airports are Kerry Airport (Killarney) and Cork Airport, each about an hour’s drive. Bus Éireann serves Kenmare; from the stop you can pick up a local taxi or hire a car for the coastal drives.

Visitor Information Centre

The Kenmare Tourist Information Centre (Fáilte Ireland) is in the town centre (V93 XVX6), open weekdays 9am–5pm and weekends 10am–4pm. Phone +353 126 555 634. Staff have maps and current details on events, parking and tours.

Launch points and facilities

• Kenmare Pier – the main hub for Kenmare Bay Cruises; toilets and snack bar on board, limited parking nearby (arrive early).
• Westcove Harbour – a natural harbour used by RibTrips and private launches; very limited parking.
• Parknasilla Hotel pier – shallow enough for motor-kayak landings, with a small café.
• Derrynane Harbour – departure point for Skellig Tours and several rib itineraries.

Key operators

Accessibility

Most main piers have level access, and the Island Explorer has a wheelchair-friendly toilet on board. The Kerry Way varies: the Tahilla-to-Blackwater Bridge segment is relatively flat and suits most abilities, while the Ardmore ridge on Stage 7 involves steeper climbs.

Parking

Parking at Kenmare Pier and Westcove Harbour is limited and unstaffed, so come early in summer. Public car parks in the town centre near the Tourist Information Centre are free.

Best time to visit

Spring and early summer for bird activity and the start of the salmon run; July and August for the best chance of dolphins; autumn for quieter water and the white-tailed eagles.