The Knockalla Mountains (Cnoc Colbha) dominate the north-west edge of Donegal’s Fanad Peninsula, their jagged silhouette earning the local nickname The Devil’s Backbone. Reaching 363 m (1,191 ft), this heather-strewn range offers one of the most rewarding ridge walks in the province. From the summit cairns, the view stretches across Lough Swilly, the Urris Hills, and the dramatic Atlantic coastline, making it a staple for hill-walkers, photographers and anyone driving the Wild Atlantic Way.
Trail Options
The mountains cater to different fitness levels, though all routes demand sturdy footwear and a head for heights.
- Knockalla Mountain Trail (Short Ascent): A 2 km out-and-back route starting from the car park beside the Knockalla Crosses. After a brief 250 m stretch on the road, a grass track climbs steadily to a cairned summit. Allow 1–1.5 hours for a moderate walk with roughly 150 m of ascent.
- The Devil’s Backbone Ridge Walk: A 6 km point-to-point traverse from the Shanky lay-by (north of Kerrykeel) to the Ballymastocker Bay viewpoint. This Grade 3 route follows the high ridge, skirts the twin summit lakes, and offers uninterrupted coastal panoramas. Budget 3.5–4 hours and be prepared for 363 m of total ascent.
- Full Ridge Loop: An 8.37 km circuit combining the Shanky start with the western viewpoint, returning via the short trail. It circles the summit plateau, passes both lakes and the outdoor chapel, and requires around 4.5 hours. Total ascent is approximately 338 m.
Landscape & Wildlife
The Knockalla range is classic glaciated Donegal terrain: smooth, rounded summits capped by stone cairns, interspersed with peat-rich hollows and hardy vegetation. Late summer brings a vivid carpet of purple heather, while the boggy slopes host a range of insects, small mammals, and breeding waders. The twin summit lakes, often glazed with ice in winter, provide a crucial resting spot for migratory birds. Autumn is particularly rewarding for wildlife watchers, with curlews calling across the ridges and the landscape shifting through russet and gold.
History & The Pilgrim Trail
Long before it became a hiking destination, the ridge served as a practical corridor linking inland villages to the coast, carrying livestock and goods across the peninsula. Today, its spiritual history is marked by the historic Knockalla Crosses near the main car park, ancient way-markers that still attract walkers. A short detour from the ridge leads to the Way of the Cross, a series of stations climbing the southern slopes to a modest outdoor chapel. Perched on the hillside, it offers a quiet space for reflection against a backdrop of open sky and distant sea.
Camping & Facilities
Nestled between the mountain slopes and the Blue Flag sands of Ballymastocker Bay, Knockalla Caravan & Camping Park is a 4-star Fáilte Ireland-approved site. Open from mid-March to mid-September, it operates as a family-run park with modern amenities:
- Pitches: Super pitches include water, electric hook-up and grey-water removal. Grass tent areas offer views of the bay or the mountains.
- Amenities: Heated toilet block, token showers (€1), laundry, gas supply, a fully equipped campers’ kitchen, Wi-Fi, and a shop/café serving homemade scones and full Irish breakfasts.
- Extras: On-site bar, TV/games room, playground, sports courts, and a boat launch. Dogs are welcome but must be kept under control.
The park is an ideal base for combining ridge walks with beach time or surfing lessons at the bay.
Getting There & Practical Tips
From Letterkenny, take the R245 to Rathmelton, continue to Milford, then turn right onto the R246 toward Kerrykeel. In Kerrykeel, head left for Portsalon and at the second crossroads turn right onto the coastal road. Follow signs to the car park near the Knockalla Crosses (short trail) or the Shanky lay-by for the ridge traverse. Both parking areas are free and well-signposted.
Walkers should note:
- The ridge is largely unmarked and features boggy, uneven sections. Trekking poles and waterproof boots are highly recommended.
- Weather in Donegal changes quickly. Carry layers, a waterproof jacket, and sufficient food/water.
- The 6 km ridge walk is an A-to-B route, so plan for two cars or arrange a pickup at the Ballymastocker Bay viewpoint.
- Mobile signal can be patchy on the summit; download offline maps before setting out.
Nearby Attractions
The Knockalla Mountains sit at the heart of a compact, highly scenic stretch of the Fanad Peninsula:
- Fort Dunree – A 19th-century coastal fort with a maritime museum and excellent bird-watching hides.
- Horn Head – A nature reserve on the peninsula’s northern tip, known for its dramatic cliffs and nesting seabirds.
- Fanad Head Lighthouse – An iconic Victorian lighthouse with a visitor centre and panoramic coastal views.
- Portsalon Village – A quiet harbour village with cafés, craft shops, and direct access to the bay.
Website: https://knockallacaravanpark.com/ (caravan park information)