Overview
After the friary at Bonamargy fell out of use, Layd Church became the chief burial ground of the MacDonnells, the clan that ran this stretch of the Antrim coast for centuries. That’s the real draw here – not the walls, which are roofless and plain, but the graveyard packed tight around them. The church sits in a steep-sided glen about a mile (1.5 km) north of Cushendall in County Antrim, where the ground falls away to Red Bay and, on a clear day, the Mull of Kintyre shows across the water. It’s free and open all year. One thing to know before you set out: the coastal cliff path from the village is closed while its wooden decking is repaired, so for now you reach the ruins by road.
Centuries of rebuilding
The earliest record of a church here is in the Taxation of Pope Nicholas (1291–92), as Ecclesia de Layde – a 13th-century Franciscan foundation. It served as the parish church from 1306 until about 1790, when a new church was built closer to the village. In between it was rebuilt at least three times:
- c. 1638 – a red-sandstone reconstruction gave the building a more permanent footprint.
- 1696 – a Protestant restoration in red sandstone and schist, marked by an inscribed stone in the east wall. The McArthur family preached here in Irish across three generations, from 1696 to 1796.
- 18th century – further repairs kept it in use before it was finally left to the weather.
Since the last services, the walls have stood as a quiet record of centuries of worship and rebuilding on an exposed coast.
The MacDonnell burial ground
The graveyard is dense with old headstones, many carved with Celtic motifs, and the MacDonnell coat of arms is still visible above the main doorway. Below ground, vaults trace the MacDonnell line alongside the McArthur, McAuley and Delargy families. At the gate you’ll find two ‘corp stones’ – flat slabs where coffins were rested on the way in – and a holestone.
Two crosses are worth finding. The one at the western end commemorates Dr James MacDonnell (d. 1845), remembered both for helping organise the last Belfast Harp Festival in 1792 and, as the official listing puts it, as a pioneer of chloroform in surgery. Nearer the entrance is the Cross Na Naghan, a holed stone set into the grave of Frank McDonnell (d. 1861). It may pre-date Christianity and is linked to old oath-taking rituals; it was moved into the churchyard at some point, either by Fr Nicholas McCrickard or by Monsignor O’Laverty.
Getting to the ruins
For now, come by road. Layde Road runs off the Shore Road (A2) at Cushendall up towards the church. There’s a layby on the Shore Road with space for a few cars and toilets, plus a small gravel parking area nearer the site, from which a short grassy walk brings you to the ruins.
The scenic approach is the coastal cliff path, which starts at Shore Street by the entrance to the golf club, runs about 200m up the laneway, then turns onto the cliff path past Salmon Rock and Port Vinegar – roughly half a mile (0.8 km) to the church, moderate going on hard-core and grass. It’s currently closed while the decking is repaired, so check locally before relying on it. When open, sturdy shoes are essential; it gets slippery after rain and windy on the exposed sections.
Practical information
Parking and facilities
The layby on the Shore Road (A2) has parking for a handful of vehicles and toilets. There’s no café or shelter at the ruins themselves, so bring water and check the forecast.
By public transport
- Bus – the nearest stop is in Cushendall, served by Ulsterbus. From there it’s a short walk or drive to the site along the Shore Road.
- Train – the nearest railway station is Coleraine, on the north coast, with connecting bus services. Verify timetables before travelling, as rural services change seasonally.
Dogs and access
Dogs are welcome but must be kept on a lead near the graves and the road. The terrain is uneven and not fully wheelchair-accessible; visitors with mobility restrictions can take in the ruins and the sea from the Shore Road instead.
Nearby stops
- Cushendall – the village itself, a mile south, with pubs, shops and the curfew tower.
- Red Bay – the headland below the ruins, good for photographs and short coastal walks.
- Ballycastle – further up the coast, with a working harbour, independent restaurants and the Ballycastle Museum.
- Bonamargy Friary – near Ballycastle, this 15th-century Franciscan friary was the MacDonnells’ burial place before Layd, so the two make a neat pair.
- Antrim Coast and Glens – the wider landscape of glens, beaches and trails.
Come early or late for the light on the stones, and pair Layd with Bonamargy at Ballycastle to follow the MacDonnell story from one burial ground to the next.