Overview
About a mile north of the seaside village of Cushendall in County Antrim, the ruins of Layd Church sit in a secluded, steep-sided valley that opens directly onto the Atlantic. The site commands dramatic views across Red Bay and toward the Mull of Kintyre, making it one of the most atmospheric historic stops on the Causeway Coast. Reachable via a short coastal cliff path or a lay-by on the Shore Road, the ruins are open all year with free admission. It is a place where medieval stone, clan history and raw coastal scenery meet.
A Century of Rebuilds
The earliest record of a church on this site appears in the Taxation of Pope Nicholas (1291–92) as Ecclesia de Layde, confirming a 13th-century Franciscan foundation that served both the local community and the powerful MacDonnell clan. Like many coastal buildings in Antrim, the original structure did not survive intact. Over the centuries, the church was rebuilt at least three times:
- c. 1638 – A red-sandstone reconstruction gave the building a more permanent footprint.
- 1696 – A Protestant restoration, marked by an inscribed stone set into the east wall. The McArthur family preached here in Irish until the late 18th century.
- 18th century – Further repairs extended the life of the building before it eventually fell out of regular use.
The last services were held in 1790, when a new parish church was constructed closer to the village. Since then, the walls have stood as a quiet monument to centuries of worship, rebuilding and coastal weathering.
The MacDonnell Burial Ground
As Bonamargy Friary declined, Layd Church became the chief burial ground for the MacDonnell clan and their allies. The graveyard is dense with centuries-old gravestones, many carved with intricate Celtic motifs. Above the main doorway, the MacDonnell coat of arms remains visible, a reminder of the family’s historic dominance over this stretch of the Antrim coast. Beneath the surface, vaults trace the lineage of the MacDonnells alongside the McArthur, McAuley and Delargy families.
Two crosses stand out among the headstones. The western-end cross commemorates Dr James MacDonnell (1798–1845), a pioneering physician whose medical work extended well beyond the local area. Closer to the entrance stands the Cross Na Naghan, a smaller holed stone set into the grave of Frank McDonnell (d. 1861). The stone may pre-date Christianity and is linked to ancient oath-taking rituals, adding a layer of pre-Christian mystery to the site.
Walking to the Ruins
The approach to Layd Church is part of the experience. The site serves as the terminus for the popular Cushendun Long Walk and Cushendun Short Walk, both of which loop through coastal scenery starting from Cushendall. The cliff path is well-signposted but steep and uneven. Sturdy walking shoes are essential, and the path can be slippery after rain or in high winds.
The walk rewards visitors with sweeping sea views. On the way, you can spot Salmon Rock and Port Vinegar, while clear days reveal the distant silhouette of the Giant’s Causeway. The valley itself is steep-sided, funneling the Atlantic breeze and creating a distinctly wild atmosphere that feels worlds away from the nearby village.
Practical Information & Getting There
By Car
A small lay-by on the Shore Road (A2) provides parking for a few vehicles. From the lay-by, a short but steep path leads down to the ruins. There is no formal car park, so visitors should park considerately and avoid blocking access.
By Public Transport
- Bus – The nearest bus stop is in Cushendall, served by Ulsterbus routes 242 and 245. From the stop, it is a 20-minute walk north along the coastal path to the lay-by and down to the church.
- Train – The closest railway station is Coleraine (approximately 30 km south-east). From there, you can catch an Ulsterbus service to Cushendall before walking to the site.
- Always verify current bus timetables before travelling, as rural services can change seasonally.
Dog Policy
Dogs are welcome at Layd Church but must be kept on a leash at all times. The narrow cliff path and local wildlife make this a necessary precaution for both safety and conservation.
What to Bring
There are no facilities on site, including toilets or a café. Bring water, wear sturdy footwear, and check the weather forecast before heading to the cliffs. The terrain is uneven and not fully wheelchair-accessible, so visitors with mobility restrictions should consider the coastal views from the Shore Road as an alternative.
Nearby Stops
If you are exploring this stretch of the coast, Layd Church pairs well with several other historic and scenic destinations:
- Ballycastle – A lively seaside town 7 km east, offering a working harbour, independent restaurants and the Ballycastle Museum.
- Red Bay – The dramatic headland visible from the ruins, ideal for photography and coastal walks.
- The Gobbins Cliff Path – A world-famous cliff-side walkway a short drive north, featuring dramatic sea-cave views and restored walkways.
- Antrim Coast and Glens – The wider landscape provides numerous walking trails, beaches and historic sites.
- Bonamargy Friary – A short drive north, this 15th-century Franciscan friary adds further context to the MacDonnell heritage explored at Layd Church.
Visit early in the morning or late afternoon to catch the best light on the stone walls and to avoid the midday coastal winds. The path to Layd Church is short, but the views and the quiet atmosphere make it one of the most rewarding coastal stops in County Antrim.