Overview
Lough Nafooey (Irish: Loch na Fuaiche, ‘lake of the fissure’) sits in a steep-sided valley on the northern edge of Connemara, and the hills around it are the eroded roots of a volcano that was active roughly 490 million years ago. It runs about 2.5 miles (4km) long and half a mile (0.8km) wide, a near-rectangular trench of water hemmed by the Maumturk Mountains to the south and the Partry Mountains to the north. Part of the north-eastern shore crosses into County Mayo, putting the village of Finny minutes away, while the Galway village of Leenane is about 11km to the south-west.
It’s fed by mountain streams and the River Fooey, off Devil’s Mother, and drains through the Finny River into the much larger Lough Mask. At the western end is the thing most people come for: a rare freshwater sandy beach, good for a picnic or a quick, bracing dip when the summer sun breaks through.
Geology and folklore
The volcano is long gone, but it left its evidence in the rock. Pillow lavas and breccia are exposed along the hillsides, formed when lava erupted underwater during the Ordovician period. Local tradition adds its own layer: the lake is said to be home to An Capall Uisce, the Water Horse, a creature of Celtic myth that gives the still water an uneasy edge at dusk.
Walking and hiking
The valley has walks for every level, from flat strolls along the western shore to serious climbs into the hills. The lakeside route on the west side is the easy one – level, fine for families and dogs on a lead, with the funnel-shaped Red Island (An tOileán Rua) out near the south-eastern shore. For height, routes climb into the Partry and Maumturk ranges; the Devilsmother loop or the pull up Bunnacunneen open 360-degree views over Killary Harbour and out to the coast. Beyond the shore path the ground turns boggy and the rock goes slick after rain, so bring waterproof boots and a map or GPS.
Road cycling
Lough Nafooey turns up on cyclists’ maps too: seven road routes around the lake are logged on Komoot, ranging from moderate loops to long, climbing days out. The roads here are mostly well surfaced but narrow, services between Leenane and Finny are thin, and there’s real elevation on the bigger loops, so carry a repair kit and check the forecast before you commit.
Fishing and the water
The cold, clear water holds wild brown trout and pike. You’ll need a local permit, sold in Leenane and Finny; check Inland Fisheries Ireland rules on rod limits and seasonal restrictions before you fish. There’s no commercial boat hire on the lake itself, though several of the self-catering cottages around the shore lend guests a boat or kayak. The western beach is the safest place to swim, but the water stays cold even in July.
What’s on
Two dates worth knowing: the Baa fleadh, a music festival at The Larches pub in May, and the Joyce Country Challenge, a hillwalking event in July.
Practical information
Getting there – the scenic approach is the N59 towards Clifden, then the R336 at Maam Cross towards Maam and Leenane, picking up the L1301 to the lake.
Parking – free parking at the western shoreline, by the beach.
Dogs – welcome on the walks and the beach, but keep them on a lead near livestock and wildlife.
When to go – May to September for the long days and the best odds on the weather. Winter is stark and atmospheric, but the trails ice up and water levels rise.
Nearby – Leenane (Galway) and Finny (Mayo) have pubs and cafés, and the Killary Sheep Farm and Aasleagh Falls are short drives off, making an easy addition to a day in the region.