Paps of Anu

Overview

The Paps of Danu rise prominently from the Derrynasaggart Mountains just east of Killarney in County Kerry. Reaching 694 m on the eastern summit and 690 m on the western, the twin peaks are instantly recognisable for their rounded, breast-shaped profiles. The name honours Danu (also known as Anu), the ancient mother goddess of Irish mythology, and the landscape retains a quiet, sacred atmosphere that draws walkers, history enthusiasts, and nature lovers alike. From the summits, visibility stretches across the rolling hills of Sliabh Luachra, the Slyggudal Pass, and on clear days, the distant outline of Mullaghanish in County Cork.

History & Archaeology

Archaeological surveys identify two prehistoric cairns on the summits, dating to the Bronze Age (circa 2500 BC). The eastern cairn is the larger structure, measuring approximately 4 m high and 16 m in diameter, while the western cairn is roughly half that size. Connecting the two summits is a distinct line of stones known locally as Na Fiacla (The Teeth). Researchers believe this alignment functioned as a processional route for ancient worshippers, deliberately placed to maintain the hills’ distinctive silhouette when viewed from the valley floor.

Just north-east of the peaks lies Cahercrovdarrig, often referred to locally as “The City”. This circular stone enclosure contains a possible ruined megalithic tomb, an ogham stone, and a cross-inscribed altar. A holy well within the enclosure still bubbles when the water table is high. Archaeologist Frank Coyne notes that the cairns’ placement just north of the true crests was intentional, designed to accentuate the breast-shaped profile visible from Cahercrovdarrig. The site has been a focal point for seasonal gatherings for millennia, transitioning from early pagan Beltane observances to a Christian-infused pilgrimage that continues today with a small Mass each May Day.

Mythology & Local Lore

The area’s Irish name, Derrynafinna (Doire Na Feinne), translates to “Oak Wood of the Fianna”. Local tradition holds that the legendary warrior band of Fionn MacCumhail used the surrounding oak woodlands as a hunting ground, accompanied by a pack of 500 Irish Wolf Hounds. The Na Fiacla stone line is said to trace the Fianna’s ancient footpaths, giving modern walkers a tangible link to these mythic hunters.

The peaks themselves remain tied to the worship of Danu, a deity associated with fertility, water, and the land. Modern pagan groups continue this connection by marking the Day of Danu on 18 January with informal gatherings at the holy well in Cahercrovdarrig. The landscape’s spiritual resonance is palpable, particularly in the quiet hours before dawn or during the crisp stillness of winter.

Walking the Peaks

The Paps offer straightforward hillwalking with well-defined paths and no technical scrambling required. The terrain is rocky and uneven in places, so sturdy footwear is essential.

The most popular starting point is the car-park near Cahercrovdarrig, which provides direct access to the eastern approach. The western approach from Islandmore involves a narrow gravel track with cattle gates; a robust vehicle is recommended if you choose this route. GPX files and route maps are available through independent walking guides for those who prefer digital navigation.

Events & Seasonal Visits

• Summer Solstice Sunrise Walk – Held annually as part of the Killarney Walking Festival, this guided ascent begins with a pre-dawn bus departure from Killarney. Participants climb in darkness to reach the Na Fiacla stone line just before sunrise, watching the light spill across Sliabh Luachra.
• Day of Danu (18 January) – Small, informal gatherings occur at the holy well in Cahercrovdarrig, often followed by a short walk to the cairns.
• Beltane Mass (1 May) – A modest Catholic service is held at the cross-inscribed altar in Cahercrovdarrig, continuing a centuries-old tradition that blends early Irish seasonal rites with Christian worship.
• Winter Charity Walks – Local outdoor clubs organise shorter 2–3 km routes around the winter solstice, focusing on the stark, frost-covered landscape. Hot drinks are typically provided at the car-park.

Getting There & Practical Info

By Car: The most accessible route is from Killarney via the R564 towards Derrynafinna. Follow local signage to the Cahercrovdarrig car-park. The road to the Slyggudal Pass is a public gravel lane, declared a public road in 1974, but remains narrow and uneven.

Public Transport: Bus Éireann services run regularly to Killarney. From there, a local taxi can drop you at the trailhead (approximately a 15-minute drive). There is no direct public transport to the mountain itself.

Parking: A small, free car-park sits beside Cahercrovdarrig. It fills quickly during the solstice walk and on dry summer weekends, so arriving before 9 am is advisable.

What to Bring: The mountain is freely accessible with no admission fee, but there are no facilities, shops, or shelters. Carry sufficient water, high-energy snacks, a waterproof jacket, and a headlamp if walking before dawn. Mobile signal can be patchy above the treeline, so download your route map in advance.

Nearby Stays: For a convenient base, consider staying in Killarney or the nearby village of Beaufort. Several eco-pods and farmhouses in the area offer pet-friendly accommodation with direct views of the Derrynasaggart range, making them practical options for multi-day walkers.

Check weather forecasts closely before setting out, as mountain conditions can shift rapidly. Starting your ascent early not only avoids midday crowds but also gives you the best chance of clear visibility across the valley.