Paps of Danu

Overview

The Paps of Danu (also called the Paps of Anu) dominate the Derrynasaggart Mountains just east of Killarney in County Kerry. Rising to 694 m (East Pap) and 690 m (West Pap), the twin peaks are instantly recognisable for their rounded, breast‑shaped silhouettes – a visual tribute to the ancient mother goddess Anu/Danu. From the summit you are rewarded with sweeping views across Sliabh Luachra, the rolling hills of Kerry, and on clear days the distant silhouette of Mullaghanish in County Cork.

History & Background

The name derives from Anu, a pre‑Christian mother goddess described in Cormac’s Glossary as “the mother of the gods of Ireland”. Later glossaries refer to the same deity as Danu, linking the hills to the mother of the Tuatha Dé Danann – the mythic tribe of Irish gods. Archaeologists identify two prehistoric cairns on the summits, likely Bronze‑Age burial or ritual monuments dating to around 2,500 BC. The eastern cairn is the larger of the pair – about 4 m high and 16 m in diameter – while the western cairn is roughly half that size. A line of stones, known locally as Na Fiacla, connects the two tops and is thought to have served as a processional route for ancient worshippers.

Archaeologist Frank Coyne has argued that the mountaintops were deliberately used for ritual, noting the cairns’ placement just north of the true crests to accentuate the “breast‑shaped” profile when viewed from the nearby stone enclosure Cahercrovdarrig (also called “The City”). Cahercrovdarrig is a circular stone fort containing a possible ruined megalithic tomb, an ogham stone, a holy well that still bubbles when the water table is high, and a faint Celtic‑cross‑inscribed altar. The site has hosted Beltane (May Day) festivities for millennia, evolving from pagan rites to a Christian‑infused pilgrimage that still sees a small Mass each May Day.

Folklore & Legends

Local tradition links the Paps to the legendary Fianna – the warrior band of Fionn MacCumhail. The Irish name for the starting point, Derrynafinna (Doire Na Feinne), translates as “Oak Wood of the Fianna”, reflecting the belief that the Fianna hunted deer here with a pack of 500 Irish Wolf Hounds. The stone line Na Fiacla is said to trace the Fianna’s ancient footpaths, offering walkers a tangible connection to these mythic hunters.

The peaks themselves are named after the mother goddess Danu (also Anu), a figure associated with fertility, water and the land. Modern pagan groups mark Day of Danu on 18 January with small gatherings at the holy well in Cahercrovdarrig, underscoring the continued spiritual resonance of the landscape.

What to See & Do

• Summit Cairns – The stone cairns atop each Pap are striking landmarks. The eastern cairn’s height makes it visible from the valley floor, while the western cairn offers a quieter, more intimate experience.
• Na Fiacla Stone Line – Follow this ancient processional route between the two summits; the stones are aligned with the sunrise on the summer solstice.
• Panoramic Vistas – From the East Pap you can see the poetry‑rich landscape of Sliabh Luachra, the glimmering Lough Glannafreaghn (Shrone Lake) in the Slyggudal Pass, and the distant peaks of the MacGillycuddy Reeks.
• The City (Cahercrovdarrig) – A short walk north‑east from the Paps brings you to this ancient enclosure. Its holy well still bubbles, the cross‑inscribed altar bears a faint Celtic cross, and the surrounding stones hint at a long‑forgotten tomb.
• Seasonal Walks – In summer, the Killarney Walking Festival organises a guided sunrise walk for the summer solstice, with a bus departing at 02:00 am from Killarney. Winter charity walks are also held around the winter solstice, complete with hot drinks at the car‑park.

Walking Routes

The ActiveME guide provides a 6 km GPX file (min altitude 247 m, peak 691 m, climb 448 m) and free iPhone/Android apps for navigation.

Guided Walks & Events

• Summer Solstice Sunrise Walk – Part of the Killarney Walking Festival (usually 19–21 June). Participants meet at the festival office in Killarney, board a dedicated bus at 02:00 am on the Saturday night before the solstice and ascend in darkness to watch the sunrise over Sliabh Luachra. The walk follows the historic Na Fiacla stone line and is led by award‑winning photographer Valerie O’Sullivan. Registration is via the festival’s official site killarneywalkingfestival.ie.
• Day of Danu (18 January) – Small, informal gatherings by modern pagan groups at the holy well in Cahercrovdarrig, often including a brief ritual and a short walk to the cairns.
• Winter Charity Walks – Organized by local outdoor clubs around the winter solstice, these shorter 2–3 km routes focus on the stark winter landscape and include hot drinks at the car‑park.
• Beltane Mass (May 1st) – A modest Catholic Mass is held at the cross‑inscribed altar in Cahercrovdarrig, continuing a tradition that blends ancient Beltane celebrations with Christian worship.

For detailed GPX files and a printable route map, see the ActiveME guide The Paps of Danu Mountain Walking Route.

Seasonal Highlights

• Summer Solstice (21 June) – Guided sunrise walk (see above).
• Day of Danu (18 January) – Modern pagan celebrations at the holy well.
• Beltane (1 May) – Small Mass at The City.
• Winter Walks – Charity walks with hot drinks provided at the car‑park.

Getting There & Transport

• By Car – The most convenient base is Killarney (≈ 12 km). From the N22 take the R564 towards Derrynafinna; follow signs to the Cahercrovdarrig car‑park. The western approach (Islandmore) is a narrow gravel track with cattle gates – a suitable vehicle is recommended. The road to the Slyggudal Pass was declared a public road in 1974 but remains a narrow, uneven gravel lane.
• Public Transport – Regular Bus Éireann services run to Killarney. From there, a local taxi can drop you at the Cahercrovdarrig car‑park (approximately a 15‑minute drive). No direct bus service reaches the summit.
• Nearest Airport – Kerry Airport (Killarney) is about 20 km away and offers flights to Dublin and other UK destinations.
• Parking – A small free car‑park sits beside Cahercrovdarrig. It fills quickly during festival events, so early arrival is advisable.

Practical Tips

• The Paps are freely accessible; there is no admission fee.
• Dogs are a popular companion on many Kerry walks, but official guidance on dog access for the Paps routes is not confirmed – check locally before you go.
• Wear sturdy walking boots and bring a waterproof jacket; weather can change rapidly.
• For the summer‑solstice sunrise walk, a head‑lamp is essential as the ascent begins in darkness.
• Carry plenty of water and a snack; there are no facilities on the mountain.
• The Slyggudal Pass road is narrow and has several cattle gates – be prepared for uneven footing.

Accommodation & Nearby Stays

For a comfortable base with views of the Paps, consider the following glamping options within a short drive of the trail:

• Nádúr Pods – Eco‑friendly pods located 15 minutes from Killarney. Each pod accommodates up to four guests, offers a private bathroom, kitchenette, fire‑pit and patio with panoramic views of the Paps of Danu. Free private parking and Wi‑Fi are provided. The site is pet‑friendly, allowing dogs to join you on walks.
• Other glamping sites – Several farms and cabins across County Kerry (e.g., Atlantic Bay Rest, Farmyard Lane, Gateway Glamping) market themselves as ideal bases for walkers exploring the Derrynasaggart range. Many are pet‑friendly and provide on‑site hot tubs or saunas for post‑walk relaxation.

Staying in Killarney or the nearby village of Beaufort also gives easy access to the Paps, as well as to other attractions such as the Ring of Kerry and Killarney National Park.

Useful links

• Wikipedia – Paps of Anu
• ActiveME – Summer Solstice Walk Route
• Voices from the Dawn – VR tour
• Killarney Walking Festival (official site)
• Nádúr Pods – glamping near the Paps

The Paps of Danu offer a rare blend of natural beauty, ancient spirituality and accessible hill‑walking. Whether you are chasing sunrise on the longest day of the year, tracing the steps of the Fianna, or simply admiring the twin stone‑crowned peaks from The City, the experience feels like stepping into a living myth.

Coordinates: 52.0403 ° N, ‑9.2559 ° W