Smithfield, Dublin

Overview

Smithfield is a compact yet dynamic quarter on Dublin’s north side, a ten‑minute walk from the city centre and a stone’s throw from Phoenix Park. Once the site of a bustling 17th‑century market, today the square is surrounded by glass‑fronted apartments, independent cafés, artisan shops and a string of cultural venues. The neighbourhood’s reputation as one of the world’s coolest districts – ranked 2nd by Time Out in 2023 – is built on its blend of historic charm and contemporary creativity.

History

The original market charter was granted by Maurice FitzGerald in 1245, allowing a weekly market and fair on the site – known then as Margadh na Feirme (the farmer’s market). The square’s present layout was formalised by Dublin Corporation in the mid‑1600s, creating the open‑air market that dominated the north‑side trade for centuries.

The area formed part of the historic Oxmantown district and fell within St Paul’s parish, which once housed both St Paul’s Church of Ireland and St Paul’s Roman Catholic Church (now used for community purposes).

Modern Redevelopment

In the late 1990s the Historic Area Rejuvenation Plan (HARP) launched an architecture competition won by McGarry NiEanaigh Architects. Over 400,000 historic cobblestones were hand‑cleaned and re‑laid, and twelve 26.5 m gas‑lighting masts were installed, each topped by a 2 m flame that changes colour for festivals (e.g., green for St Patrick’s Day, rainbow for the 2015 GAZE LGBT Film Festival). A 50‑foot‑high multi‑coloured torch installation and a modern lookout tower now dominate the plaza, providing a striking backdrop for events.

What to See & Do

Smithfield Square

The heart of the neighbourhood, Smithfield Square now hosts the indie Light House Cinema (arthouse screenings and themed film nights) and the legendary trad‑music venue The Cobblestone. The square also houses the Jameson Bow Street Distillery, where visitors can join guided tours that trace the brand’s 1780 origins and sample contemporary whiskey blends (Mon‑Fri 10:00‑17:00, Sat 11:00‑16:00).

Observation Tower

The former distillery chimney was reopened in 2018 as an observation tower. Visitors climb 244 steps to a viewing platform offering panoramic city views; the lift remains out of service.

Museums & Memorials

• National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts & History (Collins Barracks) – free admission, showcasing Irish military history, design and fashion across four floors.
• Croppies’ Acre Memorial Park – a quiet green space commemorating the 1798 Rebellion.
• Arbour Hill Military Cemetery – final resting place of the 1916 Rising leaders.

Historic Sites

• St Michan’s Church (11th century) – famous for its underground vaults where mummified bodies lie in open coffins.
• Wellington Monument in Phoenix Park – the tallest stone obelisk in Europe, offering panoramic views of the capital.

Phoenix Park & Dublin Zoo

Bordering Smithfield, Phoenix Park is Europe’s largest enclosed public park. It hosts Dublin Zoo, a herd of wild fallow deer, and the presidential residence Áras an Uachtaráin. Bike rentals from Phoenix Park Bikes make it easy to explore the park’s 707 hectares.

Food & Drink

Smithfield’s culinary scene ranges from upscale to street‑food chic:

• Fish Shop – stylish seafood on Benburb Street (mussels, cockles in sherry, award‑winning fish‑and‑chips).
• Token – retro arcade bar with classic pinball machines, burgers and tacos.
• Third Space – community‑run café offering Irish‑roasted coffee and comfort food.
• Fidelity Bar – craft‑beer bar with a bespoke sound system, open late.
• The Cobblestone – Dublin’s most authentic trad‑music pub, nightly sessions.
• Oscars Oasis Café – bright brunch spot on Benburb Street.
• Christophes – popular lunch venue serving hearty Irish fare.
• Fresh Market – weekend food market offering local produce and artisan stalls.
• Proper Order Coffee Co – specialty coffee on the cobbles, perfect for a morning stop.

Family & Kids

• Playground & Green Seating Area – located beside the 50‑foot torches, ideal for families.
• Smithfield Horse Fair – first Sunday of March and September, featuring livestock, craft stalls and live music.
• TwinkleTown Christmas Market – late November to early January, with a super‑size ice rink, vintage rides, Spiegeltent concerts and the cosy Twinkle Tavern.

Accommodation

• Maldron Hotel Smithfield – 3‑star hotel adjacent to the car park.
• Generator Hostel – budget‑friendly hostel next to the Jameson Distillery.
• The Hendrick – boutique hotel opened in 2019, offering stylish rooms and an on‑site bar.

Events & Festivals

• Smithfield Horse Fair – first Sunday of March and September, a traditional market with livestock, crafts and music.
• TwinkleTown Christmas Market – late November to early January, featuring an ice rink, panto, vintage rides, Spiegeltent live music and workshops. Entry to the market is free; tickets required for the ice rink and panto.

Practical Information

Public Transport

• LUAS Red Line – Smithfield stop (directly on the square) provides easy access to the city centre and Connolly. The Heuston stop is two stops away for south‑side connections.
• Bus – Routes 46A, 46 and 123 run along the North Circular Road with stops a minute’s walk from the square.
• Car – M50 exit 7 leads to the North Circular Road. On‑site Smithfield Car Park (adjacent to the Maldron Hotel) offers paid parking.

Opening Hours (selected venues)

Admission Fees

• National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts & History: Free
• Jameson Distillery tours: €15‑€20 per adult (includes tasting)
• TwinkleTown ice rink: €10‑€12 per session (early‑bird discounts available)
• Token arcade entry: free (pay‑per‑play)

Accessibility

The National Museum at Collins Barracks provides wheelchair access and accessible restrooms. Most cafés and bars on the square have step‑free entry, though some historic venues (e.g., St Michan’s) have limited accessibility due to their age.

Getting There

• By LUAS: Smithfield stop (Red Line) – 2‑minute walk to the square.
• By Bus: 46A, 46, 123 – alight on North Circular Road.
• By Car: M50 exit 7, then follow signs to Smithfield; use the on‑site car park.

Websites & Further Info

• General neighbourhood guide: https://www.ireland.com/en-au/magazine/guides/smithfield-stoneybatter/
• Fidelity Bar: https://www.fidelitybar.ie/
• Jameson Distillery tours: https://www.jamesonwhiskey.com/en/visit-our-distilleries/jameson-bow-street-distillery-tour/
• TwinkleTown Christmas Market: https://twinkletown.ie/attractions/spiegeltent-2/
• National Museum – Decorative Arts & History: https://www.museum.ie/en-IE/Museums/Decorative-Arts-History

Smithfield’s compact layout makes it easy to wander on foot, hopping from a morning coffee at Proper Order Coffee Co to an afternoon museum visit, then winding down with a pint at The Cobblestone. Whether you’re chasing history, hunting for great food, or simply soaking up the buzz of one of Dublin’s coolest neighbourhoods, Smithfield offers a richly layered experience that feels both timeless and unmistakably contemporary.