Overview
Teampall Feaghna (often referred to as St. Fiachna’s Church or Graveyard) sits in the townland of Garranes, within the parish of Bonane, County Kerry. What remains at this peaceful, beech-shaded historic site are the ruins of an ancient church, a centuries-old graveyard, and rare ritual stones. Local tradition traces the site to a 6th-century foundation by Saint Fiachna (or Feaghna), making it one of the earliest Christian settlements in Munster. The landscape here is a living archive: pre-Christian ritual stones, famine-era walls, and centuries-old headstones sit side by side under the open sky.
The Ruins & Graveyard
The standing church fragment in the graveyard includes the north half of the east gable and a six-foot section of the north wall, built from three-foot-thick green stone blocks held together with lime and sand mortar. While local legend historically associated these ruins with later buildings, Ordnance Survey records from the 1830s by scholar John O’Donovan confirm the church was already reduced to its foundations by that time, indicating the ruins represent an ancient medieval structure.
In contrast, the active parish church of St. Fiachna is a separate, fully functioning building situated directly on the N71 road in Bonane. Completed in 1892 to replace an 1840s chapel, that modern church was designed by architect Daniel O’Connell (grandson of the Liberator), built by Daniel Foley of Sneem using stones hauled by local farmers, and blessed on 18 May 1892 under the direction of Fr. John Mangan (who later became Bishop of Kerry).
The surrounding graveyard, known as Drom Feaghna, is enclosed by two distinct walls. The inner circular wall dates to the medieval period, while the outer rectangular wall was constructed as a famine-relief project in the 1840s. The narrow strip of unconsecrated ground between them later served as a cillín, a burial area for unbaptised infants, marked by small stone cairns. A massive beech tree anchors the yard, and a wooden viewing platform has been added near the outer wall to safely overlook the site’s most famous feature.
The Rolls of Butter (Petrified Dairy)
Just beyond the graveyard boundary lies a massive earthfast rock known locally as the Petrified Dairy or Rolls of Butter. This bullaún stone measures roughly six feet square and bears seven or eight shallow basins. Each basin cradles a smooth, oval pebble that fits perfectly inside, while rainwater pools around the stones. Antiquarians like Mr and Mrs S.C. Hall documented it in the 1840s, noting how the arrangement resembles a dairy with milk coolers (keelers) and butter pats.
Local legend says Saint Fiachna caught a woman stealing her neighbour’s milk and making butter on May morning. In punishment, he turned the butter rolls into stone and chased the thief across a nearby river, where she too was petrified into an upright standing stone. The site is also used in a traditional folk cure for warts: devotees walk anticlockwise seven times around the rock, recite prayers at each basin, dip a finger in the water, and apply it to the wart. Some researchers suggest the basins align with the constellation Orion or mark the winter solstice sunrise, hinting at its pre-Christian astronomical purpose.
Holy Well & Sacred Landscape
Across the road from the church, a small holy well (Tobar Fiacna) sits beneath a protective arrangement of large boulders. A flat stone above the well bears a worn cross, etched over generations by pilgrims scratching the sign of the cross with a pebble. The water has long been associated with easing rheumatism. Historically, the church, well, bullaún stone, and a nearby holly tree (known as the Blessed Bush) were visited together during a three-day Easter turas, or pattern day, on 29–30 August for Saint Fiachna’s feast.
A short walk north leads to the Mass Rock at Inse an t-Sagairt. During penal times, when public worship was banned, priests celebrated Mass in remote locations. Local folklore recounts a dramatic 1829 incident at this site, and the rock remains a place of quiet reverence. The area around Bonane contains over 250 archaeological monuments, from wedge tombs to standing stones, making it one of the densest concentrations of ancient sites in western Europe.
Practical Information
The historic Teampall Feaghna graveyard and ruins are open to visitors year-round with free entry and no seasonal restrictions. The separate active St. Fiachna’s parish church serves the Bonane and Glengarriff community.
Mass Schedule (at the N71 parish church)
- Saturday: 7:30 pm
Access & Parking
- The historic graveyard is located in Garranes, approximately 2.5 kilometres off the N71 between Kenmare and Glengarriff along the Priest’s Leap route.
- A small lay-by beside the graveyard offers free parking. Spaces are limited, so early arrival is recommended during peak summer months.
- The wooden viewing platform provides level access to overlook the bullaún stone, which sits on private land.
Contact
- Parish Office: 027-63045
- Email: Glengarriff@dioceseofkerry.ie
- More parish details: Glengarriff Parish – Diocese of Kerry
Accessibility The uneven stone foundations and grassy paths mean the site is not fully wheelchair accessible. The viewing platform is level and can be reached via a short, slightly uneven path.
Nearby Routes & Walks
The church sits directly on the Beara Way, a long-distance trail that connects the Ring of Kerry and Ring of Beara. Hikers can follow the old bridle paths toward Esk Mountain or continue along the Sheen River valley. The Bonane Heritage Park trail system links dozens of archaeological sites within walking distance, while a short drive brings you to Glengarriff’s subtropical gardens and the Kenmare estuary.
Visitor Etiquette
As a sacred burial ground and historic monument, visitors are asked to keep noise to a minimum. Do not move or remove any stones from the bullaún basins or the holy well, and stay on established paths to protect the fragile graveyard masonry. If you plan to attend Saturday evening Mass, head to the parish church on the N71; as its interior is small and seating is limited, arriving ten minutes early is advised.