Overview
Ballinakill (Baile na Coille – “town of the wood”) sits quietly on the R432 between Abbeyleix and the border with County Kilkenny. With a population of just over 440, the village punches well above its weight, offering a blend of 17th-century market town history, nationally significant horticulture, and active community amenities. Public transport links are maintained by a daily Town Link service (Slieve Bloom Coaches) connecting Portlaoise and Borris-in-Ossory, alongside a TFI Local Link route 822 running from Mountrath to Carlow.
A Market Town with Unusual Archives
The village’s layout still reflects its origins as a planned estate town. In 1606, Sir Thomas Coatch received a charter to hold a market and fair, establishing Ballinakill as a commercial hub. The famous Ballinakill Cattle Fair ran annually until 1963. By 1611, Sir Thomas Ridgeway had acquired the town, erected a castle, and promoted development, eventually securing its status as a parliamentary borough from 1613 until the Acts of Union.
The town square remains a focal point, featuring the historic Market House and a monument unveiled in 1898 to commemorate those who fell during the 1798 rebellion. Two churches stand side-by-side on Church Street, a distinctive feature of the village’s ecclesiastical layout, while a former Quaker cemetery lies just south of the centre.
One of Ballinakill’s most remarkable historical footnotes dates to the 1641 Rebellion. When the castle and village were besieged by forces including the Earl of Castlehaven and Lord Mountgarret, the surrender and subsequent plundering were documented by an extraordinary eyewitness: a Patagonian servant who had worked for Captain Richard Steele for twenty years. His account remains the only known testimony of its kind in Irish archives.
Heywood Gardens – Landscape and Design
Just north of the village lies Heywood Gardens, a nationally managed historic park owned by Heritage Ireland (OPW). The estate began as an 18th-century romantic landscape created by Michael Frederick Trench. Inspired by his Grand Tour, Trench reshaped the rolling hills, dug three artificial lakes, and planted sweeping avenues. He consulted with James Gandon, architect of Dublin’s Custom House, and named the house after his mother-in-law, Mary Heywood.
The formal gardens were added in the early 20th century by Sir Edwin Lutyens, likely with planting schemes by Gertrude Jekyll. After Heywood House was destroyed by fire in 1950, the demesne was transferred to State ownership in 1993. Today, it stands as one of only four Lutyens-designed gardens in Ireland and the only one in Laois.
Visitors enter beside the Gate Lodge and follow a terrace that originally ran along the front of the house. The landscape is defined by pollarded lime avenues, a red-tiled loggia featuring an Alexander Pope inscription, and circular wall windows that frame carefully composed views of Trench’s parkland. The centrepiece is the sunken garden, where an elongated pool and grand fountain are quietly guarded by resident turtles. Kingfishers and moorhens are common sights along the lake edges.
Garden rules & amenities:
- Dogs are welcome but must be kept on leads at all times.
- Cycling, fire lighting, camping, and barbeques are not permitted.
- The parkland features deep water and uneven terrain; suitable footwear is advised.
- Facilities include a car park, public toilets, a brochure desk, and interpretive signage. Guided tours are available on request.
Recreation & Community Life
Ballinakill’s community spirit is visible in its recreational facilities. The outdoor swimming pool, operated by the Ballinakill Community Development Association, runs seasonally from June to September. Originally built by the Salesian Brothers as a 45m pool, it now features a 30m adult pool and a 10m toddler pool, alongside a modern playground opened in 2022. Admission is free for local residents, with a modest fee for visitors.
Anglers favour Masslough Lake on the village edge, a semi-circular water body fringed by native woodland. The lake holds roach, perch, and tench, with tickets available through the Ballinakill Angling Club. The lake also carries a literary connection: poet Seamus Heaney fished here and later wrote about the tench he caught, adding a quiet cultural layer to the waterside setting.
Arts, Culture & Recognition
Every August, the Twin Trees Heywood Art & Culture Festival transforms the former toll-gate site into an open-air studio. The event draws artists and visitors alike for painting workshops, woodland sketching sessions, and a village-wide celebration of local creativity.
The village’s community efforts were formally recognised in 2022 when Ballinakill won the All-Island Pride of Place award for settlements of 300–1,000 people. Judges were welcomed at the historic Twin Trees entry point and given guided talks by local historian Ger Dunphy, who traced the town’s market charter, 1641 siege, and unexpected links to the Kennedy family. The award highlighted the village’s well-maintained heritage, active volunteer groups, and recent infrastructure upgrades.
Nearby Attractions
Ballinakill makes a convenient base for exploring County Laois and neighbouring counties:
- Emo Court – A neo-classical mansion and formal gardens, approximately 25 km north.
- Rock of Dunamase – A hilltop fortress with panoramic views, roughly 15 km east.
- Abbeyleix Bog Walk – A boardwalk trail through restored bogland, ideal for a gentle nature stroll.
- Aghaboe Abbey – Historic monastic ruins whose stone windows were salvaged and incorporated into a Gothic folly within the Heywood demesne.
Practical Information
Getting Here: From Abbeyleix, follow the R432 southeast for approximately 7 km. The Heywood Gardens entrance is adjacent to Heywood Community School. Free on-site parking is available for both the gardens and the outdoor pool, though spaces fill quickly during peak summer weekends.
Opening Hours:
- Heywood Gardens: May–August 08:30–21:00 | April & September 08:30–19:00 | October–March 08:30–17:00. Grounds remain accessible year-round.
- Outdoor Pool: Daily from early June to late September. Exact swimming times are posted locally.
Admission: Heywood Gardens are free to enter. The outdoor pool is free for Ballinakill residents; non-residents pay a small daily fee (check the notice board on arrival).
Accessibility: The gardens offer limited access for visitors with mobility aids; pathways are uneven in places and require sturdy footwear. The pool area is level and wheelchair-friendly. Heritage Ireland provides free entry for visitors with disabilities and their accompanying carers.
Contact & Further Details:
- Heywood Gardens: heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/heywood-gardens/ | 086 8107916 | heywoodgardens@opw.ie
- Outdoor Pool: ballinakilloutdoorswimmingpool.com
- Twin Trees Festival: info@twintrees.ie
Visit early in the morning to catch the lakeside mist clearing over Trench’s 18th-century parkland, or plan your trip around the August Twin Trees Festival for a hands-on look at local artistic talent. The village’s blend of accessible heritage and quiet natural spaces makes it a reliable stop on any Laois itinerary.