Overview
At about 5.3 m (17 ft), the Ballycrovane Ogham Stone is the tallest ogham stone in Ireland – and, oddly, it started life long before ogham existed. It’s a Bronze Age menhir, a standing stone raised thousands of years ago on the western edge of the Beara Peninsula, that someone carved with an ogham inscription only in the early medieval period. Roughly 4.7 m of it stands clear of the ground, in a private field behind a cottage above Ballycrovane Harbour, looking out over Kenmare Bay.
Set expectations before the walk up: this is a five-minute stop, and the draw is the sheer scale of the stone in its setting more than the carving, which centuries of Atlantic weather have worn faint. The site is a National Monument under the guardianship of the Office of Public Works. Access is unguided and free, and it’s an easy add-on to the Ring of Beara drive rather than a destination in itself.
The Stone and Its Inscription
The Ballycrovane monolith spans millennia. The stone itself was raised in the Bronze Age, likely as a territorial marker or a landmark for sea-borne routes along the Beara coast. Thousands of years later, between roughly the 4th and 6th centuries AD, a vertical line of ogham notches was cut into one edge, turning the prehistoric menhir into an early-medieval memorial.
The inscription reads MAQI-DECCEDDAS AVI TURANIAS – a genealogical dedication, read as ‘of Mac-Deichet, descendant of Turainn’. It anchors the monument to the Uí Thorna, a lineage of early Munster. Ogham is Ireland’s earliest written script, and inscriptions like this one, using a formula of descent, mark the point where a purely oral Gaelic society was beginning to write names down in stone.
Location and Access
The stone is located at Irish grid reference V 6569 5291, positioned on a low hill just off the R571 road. It sits approximately two miles south-west of Ardgroom and two miles south-east of Eyeries.
Access is via a farmer’s driveway leading to a small iron-gated entrance. The gate is typically kept unlocked for visitors. Always close the gate behind you to secure livestock and respect the landowner. Limited roadside parking is available near the gate; ensure vehicles do not block the resident’s driveway or the access track.
Visiting the Site
Reading the Ogham The inscription runs vertically from bottom to top. Weathering has softened some of the notches over centuries of Atlantic exposure. For the best view, examine the stone closely on a sunny day when shadows highlight the carvings. A magnifying glass can help distinguish the individual marks.
Views and Photography From the base of the stone, the panorama extends across Kenmare Bay toward the mountains of the Ring of Kerry. The stone’s height provides a strong focal point against the coastal backdrop. Early morning or late afternoon light casts long shadows across the granite, enhancing the texture of the inscription and the surrounding landscape.
Nearby Heritage Ballycrovane sits on a productive heritage loop. The stone is a short drive from Ardgroom and its stone circle, and links easily to the coastal villages of Castletownbere and Allihies. Further afield, Dunboy Castle and the Knockoura area offer additional historical and natural attractions. The R571 road itself is a key segment of the Ring of Beara drive, known for its dramatic coastal scenery.
Practical Information
- Opening Hours: Unguided site, open year-round. No formal opening times.
- Cost: Free to visit; there may be a donation box at the gate for the landowner.
- Facilities: No on-site amenities. Sort water, snacks and toilets before you arrive.
- Safety: The OPW disclaims liability for accidents. Watch your footing on uneven ground and mind livestock in the field.
- Coordinates: 51.713056 N, 9.944167 W.
- Parking: Limited roadside parking near the entrance. Do not block the farmer’s driveway.
Come on a sunny day if you can: in a low, raking light the ogham notches stand out far better than under flat grey cloud, which on this coast is the more common state of affairs.