Overview
The Belfast and Northern Counties Railway (originally the Belfast & Ballymena Railway) was the backbone of north‑eastern Irish transport from its opening in 1848. Over a century it grew into a network that stretched from Belfast through Antrim, the Antrim Coast, the Giant’s Causeway, and on to Derry~Londonderry. While the original company was absorbed into the Midland Railway’s Northern Counties Committee in 1903 and later nationalised, the routes survive today as part of Northern Ireland Railways (NI Railways). Visitors can ride the same lines that once carried holidaymakers to seaside resorts, explore preserved stations, and step inside the Whitehead Railway Museum – a living tribute to the BNCR’s engineering legacy.
History
The line began as the Belfast & Ballymena Railway, opening on 12 April 1848 after a Board of Trade inspection cleared the route. Early stations were modest, but architect Charles Lanyon gave Belfast’s terminus an imposing classical façade that still dominates the city’s rail precinct.
In 1860 the company was renamed the Belfast and Northern Counties Railway (BNCR) and embarked on an aggressive expansion: it absorbed the Ballymena, Ballymoney, Coleraine and Portrush Junction Railway (1855), the Londonderry & Coleraine Railway (1852‑53), and a host of narrow‑gauge lines such as the Ballymena, Cushendall & Red Bay Railway.
By 1903 the BNCR owned 335 miles of track (including 64 miles of 3 ft gauge). After the Midland Railway of England purchased the BNCR, the network became the Midland Railway (Northern Counties Committee, NCC). The NCC continued to promote tourism, operating the famous “North Atlantic Express” between Portrush and Belfast from 1934 and introducing railcars that cut journey times.
Following the 1923 grouping the NCC became part of the London, Midland & Scottish Railway (LMS). In 1948 the Ulster Transport Authority (UTA) took over, and later, in 1967, Northern Ireland Railways (NIR) inherited the remaining lines. Significant closures in the 1950s‑60s reduced the network from about 900 miles to the 210 miles still in operation today.
Engineering Highlights
- Bleach Green Viaducts – On the Larne line the train crosses the twin reinforced‑concrete viaducts at Bleach Green, the largest of their kind in the British Isles. They are a striking sight for passengers heading towards Antrim.
- Gobbins Cliff Path – Engineer Berkeley Deane Wise’s early‑20th‑century cliff‑side walkways, tubular bridges and stone steps on Islandmagee remain a dramatic reminder of the railway’s ambition to link tourists directly to the coast.
- Whitehead Engineering Works – In the late 19th century Whitehead hosted a major railway engineering yard, producing and over‑hauling locomotives and carriages for the BNCR. The former engine shed, water tower and turntable now house the Whitehead Railway Museum.
Heritage Locomotives
The BNCR’s most iconic post‑war locomotive was the WT Class 2‑6‑4T tank engine. Built between 1946‑1950 at Derby, the class earned the nickname “Jeeps” for their ability to run round trains without turning. No 4 was the last steam locomotive to run in Ireland (withdrawn 1971) and was rescued by the Railway Preservation Society of Ireland. After extensive restoration it returned to steam for heritage tours in 2001 and again in 2015. The locomotive can be seen at the Whitehead Railway Museum and occasionally operates special rail‑tour events.
What to See & Do
Ride the Scenic Routes
- Belfast → Derry~Londonderry – A two‑hour journey along the historic coastal corridor, praised by Michael Palin as one of the world’s most beautiful train rides. The line passes the Antrim Coast Road, offering sea‑view panoramas and access to the Nine Glens of Antrim, including Glenariff.
- Belfast → Portrush – The gateway to the Giant’s Causeway. The historic “North Atlantic Express” coaches are occasionally revived for special heritage trips, letting passengers experience the original luxury of early‑20th‑century travel.
- Belfast → Larne – Connects with the historic Larne‑Stranraer ferry route that once linked Ireland and Scotland. Modern ferries still operate from Larne Harbour, making a day‑trip to Scotland feasible.
Heritage Sites & Museums
- Whitehead Railway Museum – Operated by the Railway Preservation Society of Ireland, the museum occupies the former BNCR engine shed, water tower and turntable dating from 1907. Highlights include the preserved WT Class No 4 locomotive, a 4‑wheel Kitson tram from the Portstewart Tramway, and a collection of BNCR carriages. Visitors can climb aboard historic carriages, try a train‑simulator, watch volunteers restore locomotives in the working shed, and follow an audio‑guided tour via the TMatic app. Entry is free; donations are welcomed.
- York Road Station (now Lanyon Place) – Belfast’s historic BNCR terminus, rebuilt after wartime damage in 1941. The façade still displays the original BNCR coat of arms, and the adjacent Midland Station Hotel (opened 1898) offers a historic dining experience.
- Northern Counties Hotel, Portrush – A grand Victorian hotel overlooking the Atlantic, originally built by the BNCR to serve tourists heading to the Giant’s Causeway.
- Gobbins Cliff Path – The engineered walkways, tubular bridges and cliff‑side steps remain a dramatic reminder of BNCR civil‑engineer Berkeley Deane Wise’s ambition.
Local Attractions Along the Line
- Blackhead Path & Lighthouse – A scenic coastal walk from Whitehead to Blackhead Lighthouse, offering sweeping views of Belfast Lough and, on clear days, Scotland.
- Whitehead Golf Club – Established in 1904, the club provides a challenging seaside course with spectacular sea views.
- Whitehead Promenade & Beach – Colourful Victorian houses line the promenade; the small beach is ideal for picnics and sunset walks.
Practical Information
Train operator – All services on the former BNCR network are run by Northern Ireland Railways, a subsidiary of Translink. Timetables, ticket prices and service updates are available on the Translink website.
Tickets & Passes – Visitors can purchase single tickets at stations or use a Translink Flexi‑ticket for unlimited travel on NI Railways for a set period. A Leap Card provides contactless payment and discounted fares on urban services.
Accessibility – Most major stations (Belfast Lanyon Place, Coleraine, Derry~Londonderry) have step‑free access, tactile paving and audible announcements. Historic stations such as Whitehead retain original platforms with limited ramp access; staff are on hand to assist where possible.
Whitehead Railway Museum – Open seasonally (typically April – October); entry is free, though donations support preservation work. Limited on‑site parking is available and the museum is a short walk from Whitehead’s NI Railways station. Audio tours are accessed via the TMatic mobile app (iOS/Android).
Getting There – From Belfast, regular services depart from Lanyon Place (York Road) to Coleraine, Derry~Londonderry, Portrush and Larne. Journey times range from 30 minutes (Belfast → Larne) to 2 hours (Belfast → Derry). For visitors staying in Belfast, the city’s public‑transport network (Metro, buses) connects easily to the rail stations.