Overview
The Bricklieve Mountains, also known as the Bricklieve Hills (Irish: An Bricshliabh, meaning “the speckled mountains”), dominate the southern horizon of County Sligo. Their name is thought to derive from the way quartz fragments that survived the ancient cairns catch the light, making the hills appear to sparkle – a sight that has inspired travellers for centuries. The range covers about 25 km² and contains two principal peaks: Carrowkeel, rising to 321 m, and Kesh Corran, topping out at 359 m. The western flank of Kesh Corran shelters the celebrated Caves of Kesh, a series of natural and man‑made chambers that attract hikers and folklore enthusiasts alike.
History
Long before modern maps, the Bricklieve landscape was a centre of ritual activity. Scattered across the hills are the Carrowkeel passage tombs, a cluster of Neolithic burial chambers that date back to around 3500 BC. These cairns were deliberately aligned with solar and lunar movements, a practice that gave rise to the enduring local term “caves” for the tombs.
The mountains also feature prominently in the medieval Irish mythic collection Dindshenchas. One tale tells of Deirdre, a member of the Túatha Dé Danann, who is transformed into a sow after eating enchanted acorns. The enraged sow, Cael Ceis, rampages across the land until the legendary harper Corann of the Dagda lulls her to sleep with his music. The sow’s carcass is said to have become the very shape of Kesh Corran. The name Ceis itself may refer to a small harp or a wicker roadway, reinforcing the musical motif that runs through the mountain’s folklore.
Nature & Conservation
The Bricklieve Mountains and Keishcorran are designated a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) (site code 001656). The SAC protects a mosaic of habitats, including semi‑natural dry grasslands on calcareous substrates, lowland hay meadows, and calcareous scree. These support rare plant species such as the white orchid and a variety of orchid‑rich grasslands.
The upland scrub and heath are carpeted in bell heather, purple bell heather, and the distinctive Irish “May Bush” (Myrica gale). In early summer the hills burst with bright yellow irises and the white May Bush, offering a colourful backdrop for walkers.
Wildlife is abundant: the marsh fritillary butterfly (Euphydryas aurinia), a species of European conservation concern, can be seen on the grassland patches, while the white‑clawed crayfish (Austropotamobius pallipes) inhabits the streams that wind through the limestone. Blackface mountain sheep roam the slopes, often greeting visitors at the trailhead.
Archaeology & Discoveries
The Carrowkeel complex is regarded as one of Ireland’s finest megalithic cemeteries. Excavations led by Robert Lloyd Praeger, R.A.C. Macalister and later E.C.R. Armstrong in the early 20th century uncovered a wealth of artefacts: sea‑mammal vertebrae, garnet and jasper beads, a boar tusk, and finely decorated pottery. These finds demonstrate the far‑reaching trade networks of Neolithic communities.
Praeger also identified a prehistoric settlement on a ridge east of the tombs, known as ‘Mullaghfarna’ (the “ridge of the barley”), suggesting a small farming village once existed alongside the ritual landscape.
The Caves of Kesh have yielded evidence of post‑glacial fauna. Analyses of bone material revealed remains of brown bear (genetically close to the polar bear), wild horse, arctic lemming, wolf and Eurasian lynx – species that disappeared from Ireland after the last Ice Age. The caves were likely used by the same communities that built the Carrowkeel tombs.
What to See & Do
Visitors can explore a wealth of attractions within the Bricklieve range. The Carrowkeel tombs are accessible via a short walk from the N4 road near Castlebaldwin; each cairn offers a glimpse into Neolithic engineering and the ancient sky‑watching practices of its builders.
The highlight for many is the line of sixteen caves that open on the western cliffs of Kesh Corran. The largest, Cormac’s Mac Art’s Cave (also called the Hermit’s Cave), provides a dramatic outlook over Galway, Mayo and Sligo, with Croagh Patrick and Nephin visible on the distant horizon. From this perch you can also spot the Ox Mountains, Mucklety Hill and the fairy‑topped Knocknashee. Smaller chambers such as Coffey’s Cave, Plunkett’s Cave and the Water Gallery each possess distinct characters – the Water Gallery, for instance, twists and turns like a subterranean riverbed.
A particularly magical experience occurs at sunset during the equinoxes, when the western‑facing caves are flooded with golden light that penetrates deep into the chambers. Legend has it that ancient peoples watched the sun set from these very caves, inspiring the construction of the cairns themselves.
For those who enjoy walking, the “Historical Trail” marked on the Wild Atlantic Way maps leads from Castlebaldwin through the Bricklieve foothills, crossing the townlands of Cloghoge and Treanscrabbagh. The route follows a broken‑asphalt track that brings you to the first burial mound within ten minutes, and continues past a series of tumuli that dot the ridge. The trail is well‑signposted and offers a blend of archaeological intrigue and sweeping countryside scenery.
Walking & Trail Details
The Bricklieve walk forms part of the historic Miners Way, a network of trails that trace the old mining routes of south Sligo. The trailhead is a small lay‑by on the N4 just outside Castlebaldwin; there is limited parking, and a gate must be closed behind you. The track is unsuitable for coaches, so a car or small van is recommended.
Seasonal wildflowers – irises, May Bush and bell heather – make the spring and early summer walks especially photogenic. From the summit you can see Lough Arrow to the east and, on clear days, the distant silhouette of Ben Bulben.
Practical Information
- Access: Open year‑round, no formal opening hours.
- Parking: Small lay‑by near Castlebaldwin (limited spaces, not suitable for large vehicles). A gate at the trailhead must be closed after use.
- Trail surface: Mixed – farm tracks, stone paths and some boggy sections. Good walking boots and waterproof trousers are advised.
- Equipment: A reliable torch is essential for exploring the deeper cave chambers; a hat, sunscreen and water are recommended for the open sections.
- Difficulty: Suitable for most fitness levels, though the final ascent to Kesh Corran involves a moderate gradient.
- Wildlife & Conservation: As a SAC, visitors are asked to stay on marked paths to protect sensitive habitats and species.
- Nearby attractions: Consider a visit to the Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery or a drive to the scenic Lough Arrow area.
For further reading, see the Wikipedia entry on the Bricklieve Mountains and the dedicated site on the Carrowkeel complex at carrowkeel.com.