Overview
Killeen Cormac has seven ogham stones – one of the densest clusters of these early medieval inscriptions anywhere in Ireland, and the reason to make the detour. They stand on a natural gravel hillock above the River Greese (a tributary of the Barrow) on the Kildare–Wicklow border near Colbinstown, inside a mortared stone wall that a 19th-century hand put up to replace an older dry-stone one. It’s an early ecclesiastical and burial site, a National Monument, and most days you’ll have it to yourself.
A Landscape of Stone and Legend
The hillock was terraced, and its edges lined with large weathered slabs that look a great deal like the kerbstones of a megalithic tomb. They aren’t: when R.A.S. Macalister and Robert Praeger excavated here in 1929, they disproved the idea that this began as a prehistoric monument. A later dig in the 1980s, during gas-pipeline construction, was inconclusive. What the site clearly is, from at least the early Christian centuries, is a church and graveyard – the name Cell Fine Chormaic means ‘church of the kindred of Cormac’, though an alternative reading, Cell Ingen Cormaic, makes it the church of the daughters of Cormac. A geophysical survey in 2013 traced a triple-ditched enclosure around the hillock, hinting at a bigger early foundation than the walled patch you see today.
Local folklore adds a vivid layer, which is why the place is also known as the Druid Graveyard. It is traditionally linked to Cormac Mac Airt, the legendary High King of Ireland. According to the tale, when Cormac died his body was carried on a bullock-drawn carriage; the exhausted animals struck the ground with their hooves, causing a spring to burst forth near the road. They then dragged the carriage to a nearby rise – still known locally as Bullock Hill – where they refused to move, marking the king’s resting place. A pillar stone nearby is said to bear the imprint of a hound’s paw, left by the royal dog that walked in the funeral procession.
The Ogham Stones
What truly sets Killeen Cormac apart is its collection of standing stones. The enclosure contains seven Ogham pillars, making it one of the most concentrated groups of these ancient inscriptions in Ireland. Carved between the fourth and seventh centuries, Ogham is an early medieval alphabet consisting of intersecting lines and notches cut into the stone edges. Originally used to record names and genealogies, these carvings offer a tangible link to the people who lived and worshipped here nearly 1,500 years ago.
Most carry pure Ogham script; one is broken and reused in the perimeter wall. The remarkable one is the bilingual monument – the Drunides Stone – carved with both Ogham and Latin lettering, the only such example in this part of the country. It records the cultural shift under way in early medieval Ireland as the Latin alphabet edged out the older script. It is no longer here: it was removed to the National Museum of Ireland in Dublin. The Ogham in 3D project has made detailed digital scans of the Killeen Cormac stones, which can be studied online at ogham.celt.dias.ie – handy for reading carvings that centuries of weather have worn faint.
Visiting Killeen Cormac
Killeen Cormac is an unpretentious, self-guided experience. There are no ticket offices or guided tours – just a peaceful enclosure that invites you to wander at your own pace. The ground is uneven and dotted with centuries-old gravestones, so sturdy footwear is recommended. The stone walls and terraced mound create a sheltered, contemplative space, perfect for a quiet walk or a moment of reflection away from the usual tourist trails.
While the site is open year-round, the surrounding landscape is particularly striking in the autumn when the esker hillsides turn gold, or in the spring when the River Greese banks are lush and green. The absence of crowds means you can easily hear the water and wind, adding to the sense of stepping back in time. Bring a notebook if you enjoy tracing the Ogham lines, though please be gentle with the ancient stone surfaces.
Getting There & Practical Info
Location: The site is located off the R448, roughly halfway between Timolin and Ballynure. It sits just across the border from County Wicklow. Parking: There is no formal car park. A small lay-by near the entrance offers limited space for cars and camper vans. Arriving early on weekends or during peak travel seasons is advisable. Opening hours: An open, unstaffed site with no gate; accessible year-round in daylight. Admission: No charge. Accessibility: The enclosure is built on natural, uneven ground with steep steps leading up to the terraced mound. It is not suitable for wheelchairs or pushchairs. Facilities: There are no toilets, cafes, or shops on-site. Nearby towns like Timolin and Ballynure offer pubs, cafes, and B&Bs.
Exploring More of County Kildare
Killeen Cormac makes a wonderful stop on a heritage trail through east Kildare. After visiting the mound, you can continue exploring the region’s rich history and landscapes:
- Dún Ailinne: The ancient royal centre of the Kingdom of Laigin, located in the Curragh.
- Great Connell Priory: A beautifully preserved Augustinian priory set in quiet farmland.
- Carbury: A historic village with castle ruins, a hillfort, and Carbury House.
- Donadea Forest Park: Home to ancient ringforts, a medieval chapel, and extensive woodland walks.
- Hill of Allen: A mythic summit with a modern tower offering panoramic views across the midlands.
The bilingual Drunides Stone that makes this site nationally important is no longer on the hillock – it’s in the National Museum of Ireland on Kildare Street in Dublin, worth catching if the ogham has got its hooks in you. For the fuller history, the Kildare Libraries archive holds Sharon Greene’s detailed article on Killeen Cormac’s ecclesiastical past.