Overview
The R344 runs almost dead straight up the Inagh Valley with the lake on one side and mountains on both, and on a still day the water throws the whole lot back at you – which is why this stretch turns up on every list of Connemara’s best drives. Lough Inagh (Irish: Loch Eidhneach, ‘lake of the place of ivy’) lies about 23 km east of Clifden in County Galway, hemmed between the Twelve Bens to the west and the Maumturks to the east, with peaks like Derryclare, Bencorr, Letterbreckaun and Binn idir an Dá Log rising straight off the shore. It’s fed by the Gleninagh and Tooreennacoona rivers and drains south into Derryclare Lough.
History and character
There are no castles or ruins on Lough Inagh’s shores; its history is a fishing one. The waters have been worked and managed by local lodges for generations, and the Lough Inagh Lodge Hotel on the shore began life around 1880 as a simple fishing lodge, keeping much of that character today. The Irish angling writer Peter O’Reilly reckoned the lough ‘will take more than one day to explore adequately’ – a fair verdict on a lake this size, with a shoreline this broken.
Angling on the lough
Lough Inagh is a serious game fishery. Spring salmon start coming through in early March and peak in May, running around 10lb and occasionally to 25lb; the grilse arrive in June and are taken from bank or boat right through to the end of September. There’s sea trout and brown trout as well, and boats work both Lough Inagh and neighbouring Derryclare Lough. It’s privately managed, so you’ll need a State licence plus a permit for the lough, usually arranged in advance through the lodge. An outboard is worth having – the lake is big and there are submerged rocks to mind – and salmon or sea trout is a full-day job rather than an hour’s dabble.
Walking and hiking
On foot there are two very different options, and it’s worth knowing which is which before you set out. The gentle one is the valley itself: the Western Way runs linearly for about 30 km down the Inagh Valley, following an old pilgrim path toward Croagh Patrick before swinging away toward Killary Harbour and Leenaun. It’s point-to-point, so you’ll need transport arranged at each end. The serious one is the Derryclare Horseshoe, a separate mountain circuit over Derryclare and Bencorr – a long day with around 900 m of climbing, best left to well-shod walkers with a forecast in hand. Don’t confuse the two: the valley trail is a stroll, the horseshoe is a mountain day. Either way, Connemara weather turns fast, so pack waterproofs.
The Connemara Loop and day trips
The drive is the headline act – part of the Connemara Loop, threading up from Clifden through the Inagh Valley past Derryclare Lough, mountains on either side and a photo stop at nearly every bend. If you’re here in April, the Connemarathon (half, full and ultra) uses Lough Inagh as one of its start points, so expect the road to be busy that weekend.
Worth folding into a visit:
- Derryclare Wood and Nature Reserve, at the foot of the mountains, with easy woodland trails and good birdwatching.
- Kylemore Abbey, a short drive north, with its Victorian walled garden and Benedictine community.
- Connemara National Park, reached via the R344, with marked trails including the climb up Diamond Hill.
- The Connemara Heritage and History Centre at the Dan O’Hara Homestead near Clifden, where a short audio-visual and a room of artefacts show how people scraped a living off this ground.
- Killary Adventure Centre at Leenaun, for kayaking and climbing on Ireland’s only fjord.
Practical information
Lough Inagh is free to visit. Parking is the catch: there’s just a small roadside pull-in on the western shore, and the Lough Inagh Lodge Hotel’s car park is for guests, so come early in summer or you may not get to stop at all. If you’re not fishing, the best of the place is free anyway – pull into that lay-by early or late, when the light is low and the water goes to glass.
Facilities and access There’s no visitor centre at the lake. The Lough Inagh Lodge Hotel, on the shore, has dining, rooms, parking and toilets for guests. Keep dogs under control near the fishing water.
Getting there
- By car: Take the R344 up the Inagh Valley; the lake sits right beside the road, about 23 km from Clifden. The nearest fuel and shops are in Clifden and Recess.
- By bus: Buses on the Galway–Clifden road stop at Recess, roughly 5 km from the lake; from there it’s a taxi or a walk.
- By bike: The Connemara Greenway runs nearby and makes a traffic-free alternative for cyclists.
When to go Salmon and sea trout peak through the summer, when the fishing is busiest. Winter is the quieter, starker picture – snow on the Bens doubled in the still water. Photographers and walkers can be in and out in short order; anglers should give it a full day.