Overview
Sheskin Forest stretches across the uninhabited uplands of north County Mayo, running from the outskirts of the coastal town of Ballycastle southwards to Bellacorick. This vast expanse of commercial conifer forest, managed by Coillte, is established on the ancient, rolling blanket bogs of the barony of Tirawley. Known locally as Ireland’s “big sky country,” Sheskin is celebrated for its immense, unobstructed horizons and an intense sense of isolation. With no permanent human habitation for miles, the forest offers hikers a rare experience of absolute solitude, where the only sounds are the wind through the Sitka spruce and the distant cries of gulls flying inland from the Atlantic.
The forest is traversed by a challenging 25-kilometre section of the Western Way, a long-distance trail that links the Galway coast to north Mayo. Because of its remote nature and the unpredictable Atlantic weather, crossing Sheskin is a serious undertaking that requires careful preparation, proper navigation skills, and a deep respect for the elements.
Haunting History & Literary Connections
Deep within the pine canopy lie the crumbling stone ruins of Sheskin Lodge, a structure with a storied and dark past. Originally constructed by the MacDonnell family of Carnacon – noted figures who fought alongside French forces during the Rebellion of 1798 – the property was later acquired in the late 19th century by the Jameson family, founders of the famous Irish whiskey distillery. The Jamesons restored the lodge into a grand, remote hunting and shooting station.
However, the family name became embroiled in a gruesome international scandal in the late 1880s when James Jameson, during a chaotic expedition in the Congo, allegedly purchased a young girl and had her cannibalized so he could sketch the scene. This disturbing event, known as the “Jameson Affair,” cast a long, grim shadow over the family’s Irish estates, and Sheskin Lodge eventually fell into disuse and ruin.
In 1939, as World War II began to engulf Europe, the English author Terence Hanbury “Tim” White, creator of The Once and Future King, sought refuge at Sheskin Lodge. White spent months in this isolated landscape, capturing its rugged spirit in his poetry. He wrote of the enduring presence of the nearby peaks, Corslieve and Nephin, declaring that they “keep trust” long after human dynasties have turned to dust. Today, nature is slowly reclaiming the lodge; moss, ivy, and ferns drape the stone walls of the main house, though the nearby stone cart house still stands as a testament to the skilled masonry of the 19th century.
The Trail Experience & Natural Wonders
Walking the 25-kilometre Sheskin segment reveals a landscape of stark contrasts. The northern section of the trail climbs gently toward Altderg Lough, offering sweeping views of the surrounding hills, while the southern half crosses deep, open bogland.
Much of the route borders the Knockmoyle Sheskin Nature Reserve, a protected lowland blanket bog of international ecological importance. Because this reserve has escaped the burning and overgrazing common in other parts of Mayo, its native flora has flourished. Hikers who step quietly may spot black bog rush, bog cotton, deer sedge, purple moor grass, and the rare marsh saxifrage. The humid, clean Atlantic air also supports a rich carpet of rare mosses, lichens, and bryophytes.
In recent years, the wilderness has adapted to host modern green technology. The old, narrow forest path has been partially replaced by a wide, gravelled 7-kilometre access road built for the Sheskin Wind Farm. Here, towering wind turbines stand in sharp contrast to the surrounding peatlands, their massive blades slicing through the dark Atlantic clouds to generate renewable energy for the national grid.
Practical Advice for Hikers
Due to its extreme remoteness, Sheskin is not a location for casual walkers or families with young children. Hikers must be fully self-sufficient and prepared for demanding conditions.
- Navigation: Mobile phone coverage is non-existent in many parts of the forest. You must carry a physical OS Discovery map (Sheets 23 and 31) and a reliable compass, and know how to use them.
- Footwear & Clothing: Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots are essential. The trail surface varies from hard-packed gravel wind-farm roads to wet, muddy forestry tracks and saturated bogland. Pack high-quality rain gear and warm layers, as the weather can deteriorate rapidly.
- Supplies: There are no shops, cafes, or clean water sources on this 25 km stretch. Bring all your food and a generous supply of drinking water. If you plan to collect water from mountain streams, use a reliable filtration system.
- Midges & Insects: The boggy terrain is a breeding ground for midges, particularly during warm, still summer days. Bring strong insect repellent and consider a midge head-net.
- Regulations: In line with local environmental protection measures and to safeguard grazing sheep, dogs are strictly prohibited on the Sheskin section of the trail.
Trail Conditions & Access
The Western Way is subject to temporary closures due to the severe weather conditions of the Irish west. For example, the nearby Ashleagh River section of the trail, running north from Ashleagh Lodge to Houston’s Bridge, frequently closes due to flooding after heavy rainfall. Always check official trail updates on the Sport Ireland or Western Way websites before starting your journey.
The trail is best accessed via the northern trailhead near Ballycastle or the southern entry point near Bellacorick. While limited bus services run from Ballina and Castlebar to these villages, schedules are sparse, making a pre-arranged taxi or a two-car drop system the most practical transport option.
Nearby Attractions
- Ballycroy National Park: Now part of the Wild Nephin National Park, this adjacent wilderness offers vast night-sky viewing and additional rugged hiking routes.
- Aasleagh Falls: Located further south on the Western Way, this picturesque waterfall on the Erriff River marks the boundary where Mayo meets Galway.
- Ballycastle: A charming coastal village at the northern end of the trail, perfect for a warm meal and a visit to the dramatic sea stack of Downpatrick Head.
For those seeking accommodation before or after the trek, the towns of Ballycastle and Ballina offer excellent guesthouses, B&Bs, and hotels that can serve as comfortable bases.