Overview
The Sligo-Leitrim Mountains, often referred to as the Dartry Mountains, form a dramatic limestone backbone across north-west Ireland. Stretching from the iconic table-top of Benbulben in County Sligo, through the myth-laden slopes of Knocknarea, up to the highest summit Truskmore (647 m) on the Sligo-Leitrim border, the range drops into the rugged Ox Mountains to the south. Designated as both a Special Protection Area and Special Area of Conservation, these uplands host a mosaic of grassland, blanket bog and sheer cliff habitats. It is a landscape that rewards slow exploration: every turn of the road or path reveals a new vista, from the silver ribbon of Lough Gill to the wild Atlantic coast.
History & Myth
These mountains are ancient. Benbulben’s limestone was sculpted over millions of years by wind, rain and sea, while the surrounding plateaus hold secrets dating back to the Neolithic. Archaeological sites dot the landscape, most notably the massive cairn on Knocknarea, burial chambers over 5,000 years old, and the nearby Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery. Legend holds that the cairn on Knocknarea is the tomb of Queen Maeve (Medb), the legendary warrior queen of Connacht.
The landscape also inspired one of Ireland’s greatest literary voices. W.B. Yeats found endless inspiration here, eventually choosing to be buried in Drumcliffe beneath Benbulben’s shadow. His poem “Under Ben Bulben” immortalises the scenery, while local folklore speaks of the Morrígan, the goddess of war and fate, who was said to dwell in the limestone caves of Keshcorran. The name Truskmore itself derives from the Irish Trosc Mór – “rough, large ground” – reflecting its historic role as clan territory before becoming a site for a modern telecommunications mast.
Walking & Hiking
The range offers trails for every level of fitness, from gentle coastal strolls to demanding ridge walks.
- Benbulben Loop Walk: An 8 km circuit around the base of the mountain, passing Dún Cúra Lake and multiple viewpoints. Allow 3–4 hours for a relaxed pace.
- Gleniff Horseshoe: A classic ridge walk offering close-up views of Benbulben’s north face and the surrounding Dartry range. Expect a 4–5 hour round trip over uneven terrain.
- Knocknarea Summit: A well-marked trail leading to Queen Maeve’s cairn, rewarding walkers with 360° coastal panoramas. Allow 2–3 hours.
- Truskmore Summit: The easiest access to a major peak, reachable via a paved service road. The dual-county cairns and sweeping views of the Dartry plateau make it a favourite. Allow 1–2 hours.
- Ox Mountains Exploration: Less-trodden valleys ideal for spotting red deer, badgers, choughs and other upland wildlife. Routes vary in length and difficulty.
For those seeking a gentler introduction, the Benbulben Forest Walk offers a 2 km loop through native woodland on the mountain’s lower slopes, suitable for families and casual strollers.
Mountain Biking & Outdoor Pursuits
The Ox Mountains and the foothills around Coolaney host a growing network of marked single-track routes popular with local and visiting riders. Trails wind through heather-covered slopes, offering panoramic views of Lough Gill and the Atlantic coast. Difficulty ranges from easy family loops to more technical sections featuring rock gardens and steep descents. Riders should check the latest trail conditions at the local mountain-bike information point in Coolaney before setting off, and remember that mountain biking is strictly off-road to protect the fragile bog habitats.
Technical climbers are drawn to Benbulben’s sheer gullies, which attract experienced parties year-round. Always ensure you are equipped for technical rock and check weather forecasts, as conditions on the exposed plateaus can shift rapidly.
Wildlife & Birdwatching
The limestone cliffs and blanket-bog habitats support a diverse bird community. In spring and early summer, red-billed choughs perform aerial displays over the cliffs, while peregrine falcons nest on the sheer faces of Benbulben. Autumn brings migrating waders and the occasional barnacle goose. Red deer, Irish hares and badgers are regular sightings in the upland valleys. Keep an eye out for the wildflower carpet – including spring-time mountain avens and summer heather – which attracts butterflies such as the silver-spot skipper.
Practical Information
- Getting there: The nearest major airport is Ireland West Airport Knock, about 80 km south of Sligo town. From there, the R284 and N4 provide access to the mountain road network.
- Transport: A car is the most convenient way to reach trailheads. Regular bus services run between Sligo and towns such as Drumcliffe, but no dedicated public-transport links reach the higher trailheads.
- Parking: Free parking is available at the Benbulben car park (near Dún Cúra Lake), the Knocknarea trailhead off the R284, and the Truskmore access point off the R281. Spaces fill quickly in summer, so aim to arrive before 10 am.
- Facilities: Toilets are provided at the Benbulben car park and at the visitor centre in Sligo town. The Sligo County Museum hosts a small exhibition on the geology and mythology of the mountains.
- Accessibility: The Truskmore summit road is paved and suitable for wheelchair users, though the final short stretch to the cairn involves uneven ground. Other routes are uneven and not suitable for wheelchairs.
- Safety: Weather can change rapidly on the exposed plateaus. Walkers should carry waterproof clothing, a map and compass, and inform someone of their route. In winter, snow can blanket the higher ground; experienced walkers should be prepared for icy conditions and reduced daylight.
Nearby Attractions
- Benbulben – The iconic flat-topped mountain and Yeats’ final resting place.
- Caves of Keash – Limestone chambers on Keshcorran Hill linked to ancient myth.
- Ballygilgan Nature Reserve – Coastal reserve with bird hides and walking trails.
- Glencar Waterfall – A romantic cascade celebrated by Yeats, ideal for a post-hike treat.
- Strandhill – A vibrant surf town just a short drive from the mountain foothills, perfect for coastal walks and evening meals.
The Sligo-Leitrim range is best explored at your own pace. Start early to catch the morning light on the limestone cliffs, pack a sturdy pair of boots, and allow time to wander off the main trails to discover the quiet bogs and hidden valleys that give this landscape its character.