St. Finian’s Bay

Overview

St. Finian’s Bay (also called The Glen or An Gleann) sits on the Atlantic coast of County Kerry, midway between the villages of Portmagee and Ballinskelligs on the Skellig Ring drive. The bay stretches from Puffin Island in the north to Ducalla Head in the south, cradling the Skellig Rocks and the Lemon Rock. Its small, unspoilt beach backs onto the towering Skellig Islands, making it one of the most photogenic spots on the Wild Atlantic Way.

History & Archaeology

The name derives from Saint Finan Cam, a 10th‑century monk who is thought to have founded an early oratory on Skellig Michael, directly opposite the bay. According to the Strolling Guides, Finan (also recorded as Finian or Fionan) was a follower of St Brendan and is credited with establishing the Skellig Michael monastery that bears his name. He is also linked to a foundation in Kintty, Offaly. When Danish raids forced the monks onto the mainland, the remains of their monastery were still visible in a sheltered corner of the bay as late as 1890.

Archaeological evidence shows the area has been occupied since the Bronze Age. Near the bay lies Rathkerin, the site of an ancient earthen fort, and numerous stone graves and souterrains dot the landscape. Notable early‑Christian sites include the Kilaboona Oratory and a well dedicated to Saint Buaine. The ruined Killemlagh Church, an Irish Romanesque building from the 12th‑13th century, sits on the former monastery’s footprint, while the nearby Pagan’s Grave is a modest stone‑standing enclosure.

The modern landscape is sparse – a handful of cottages, the ruins of a small church and the chocolate factory are the main built features. Signposts to St Finian’s Bay lead down to the little beach below the settlement of Keel.

Nature & Wildlife

The mild Atlantic climate nurtures a rich flora: buttercups, primroses, bluebells, orchids and the striking orange‑blooming montbretia line the hedgerows and field paths. Birdlife is abundant – from wren, robin and yellowhammer to seabirds such as gulls, razorbills, gannets and the puffins that nest on the nearby Puffin Island sanctuary. The waters teem with pollack, mackerel, cod, lobster and crab, attracting both anglers and divers.

Activities

Surfing & Water Sports

St. Finian’s Bay boasts the smallest beach on the Skellig Ring but is famed for its powerful rip tides and consistent swell. Experienced surfers prize the bay for its fast, hollow waves; the swell is reliable throughout the surf season. Beginners are advised to stay clear of the strong currents and to surf only when a lifeguard is present – the spot is unpatrolled. The best surf conditions are found with a westerly swell and a moderate tide; local surfers often check tide tables before heading out.

Diving

St. Finian’s Bay is a remote dive site with spectacular underwater formations. The dive is a shore‑launch from the beach and is relatively shallow, with depths ranging to about 20 m. The seabed consists of sandy patches, basalt rocks, boulders and thriving kelp forests. Marine life includes crab, grey seal, dolphin, lobster, brown wrasse, sea urchin, spider crab and various nudibranchs.

Visibility is at its best on calm days with south‑ or south‑west winds; a rising tide is recommended for easier entry and clearer water. Poor visibility can occur with north‑ or east‑going winds. Strong currents are present outside the bay, and the site is occasionally visited by fishing boats, so divers should use a surface buoy and be aware that mobile phone coverage can be patchy.

Walking & Hiking

The Glen is criss‑crossed by sign‑posted trails that lead south toward Ducalla Head (about 2 km, moderate), north toward Glenaragh, or east toward Kilabuona. Panoramic viewpoints such as “Com an Easboig” in the north and the tower at Bolus Head in the south reward walkers with sweeping vistas of the Skellig Islands, Puffin Island and the rugged coastline. The routes form part of the wider Skellig Ring walking network, suitable for a half‑day outing.

Chocolate Experience

A short stroll from the beach brings you to Skelligs Chocolate, Ireland’s only open‑plan chocolate factory. Visitors can sample handcrafted truffles, bars and fudge, and the site also offers chocolate‑making courses for all ages.

Surf Schools & Rentals

Local operator Skellig Watersports runs surf‑instruction sessions during the summer months and provides board and wetsuit hire year‑round. While the bay is best suited to experienced surfers, beginners can take a lesson on the more sheltered sections of the beach under supervision. The centre also offers stand‑up paddle‑boarding and kayaking trips that explore the coastline and the waters around the Skellig Rocks.

Wildlife Seasons

Puffins nest on nearby Puffin Island from May to August, making early summer the prime time for bird‑watchers. Grey seals are a year‑round presence, often spotted hauled out on the rocks at low tide. Spring brings a burst of wildflowers, while autumn brings larger Atlantic swells that attract seasoned surfers.

Practical Information

St. Finian’s Bay is freely accessible year‑round; there is no admission fee and no formal opening hours. Parking is available near the beach – a free car park sits about 100 m from the shoreline and provides sufficient spaces for visitors. The area is sign‑posted for walkers and cyclists. The pier and beach are public, and the surf spot is unpatrolled, so only confident swimmers and surfers should enter the water. Mobile coverage can be limited, so carry a map or offline navigation.

For more information on the surrounding Skellig Ring and nearby attractions, see the Visit Ballinskelligs beach guide.

Nearby Attractions

• Ballinskelligs – a Blue‑Flag beach and historic abbey just a short drive east.
• Portmagee – a lively fishing village with ferry links to Skellig Michael.
• Puffin Island – a seabird sanctuary reachable by boat tours from Portmagee during the summer months.
• Ducalla Head – a dramatic headland offering cliff‑top walks and sea‑stack views.