Mountains & Viewpoints in County Cork

Most of this list is packed into the south-west corner of the county, where long peninsulas run out into the Atlantic. Mizen Head is the best known: a signal station on an offshore crag, reached by an arched bridge and 99 steps, on a private site that locks when the visitor centre closes. Brow Head, above Mallavoge, is the actual southernmost point of the mainland by about nine metres, and has no car park, no railings and no café.

North of the Mizen, Sheep’s Head holds Ahakista on Kitchen Cove and Kilcrohane under Seefin, with the Goat’s Path climbing over the spine between them and Sheep’s Head Way trailheads at both. Beara, further north again, is where the Caha Mountains meet the road at the tunnelled Caha Pass and the hairpins of the Healy Pass; Bull Rock, off the tip, can only be seen from a boat.

The rest is spread thin. Knockboy, at 706m the county’s highest point, is a bog summit walked from the single-lane Priest’s Leap road on the Kerry border. Galley Head sits south-east of Clonakilty, and Old Head is inside a golf course at Kinsale, open only a few days a year. Boat trips to the Fastnet run from Baltimore and Schull, and all of it wants a clear day.

Where to start

  1. Mizen Head – Ireland's south-west edge Mizen Head

    The most south-westerly point of the mainland, with a signal station on an offshore crag reached by an arched bridge and 99 steps.

  2. Ahakista – harbour on Sheep's Head Ahakista

    A sheltered harbour halfway along Sheep's Head, with the Air India memorial garden, two Bronze Age stone circles and loops off the Sheep's Head Way.

  3. Brow Head – Ireland’s southernmost point Mallavoge

    The true southernmost point of mainland Ireland, unmanaged and unfenced, carrying a Napoleonic signal tower, Marconi ruins and old copper workings.

  4. Bull Rock – the Entrance to the Underworld Castletownbere

    A tunnelled sea-stack off the tip of Beara holding Ireland's largest gannet colony, seen only by boat and, sea permitting, from inside the arch.

  5. Caha Mountains – the passes over Beara Glengarriff

    The range down the spine of Beara, topped by 685m Hungry Hill and met most easily on the Caha Pass and the Healy Pass.

29 of 30 shown — tap a pin for the place.

Mizen Head, Coastline, Co Cork
Mizen Head, Coastline, Co Cork Courtesy Fáilte Ireland

Mizen Head – Ireland's south-west edge

Mizen Head, cork

Mizen Head is the most south-westerly point of the Irish mainland, at the tip of the Mizen Peninsula in West Cork. A former Irish Lights signal station sits on an offshore crag, reached by an arched bridge and 99 steps, with seals, seabirds and, in summer, whales in the water below. The whole site is private and locked when the centre is closed, so check the opening times before driving out.

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Ahakista, Co Cork
Ahakista, Co Cork Courtesy of Marie Cremin, Failte Ireland

Ahakista – harbour on Sheep's Head

Ahakista, cork

Ahakista sits halfway along the Sheep's Head peninsula around a sheltered harbour known as Kitchen Cove. Its memorial garden remembers the 329 people killed when Air India Flight 182 came down over the Atlantic in 1985, its sundial set to catch the sun at the moment of the explosion. Two Bronze Age stone circles and loops off the 90km Sheep's Head Way round out the reasons to come.

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Lackenakea Bay Beach and Brow Head_Touring 3_Co Cork_DSC_2645.jpg
Lackenakea Bay Beach and Brow Head_Touring 3_Co Cork_DSC_2645.jpg Tourism Ireland

Brow Head – Ireland’s southernmost point

Mallavoge, cork

Brow Head, not Mizen Head, is the southernmost point of mainland Ireland – by about nine metres. The unmanaged West Cork headland carries an 1804 Napoleonic signal tower, the ruins of an early Marconi wireless station and 19th-century copper workings, and stood in for an alien coast in Star Wars: The Last Jedi. No car park, no railings, no café, just cliffs and the open Atlantic.

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Bantry Bay and Caha Mountains from Glengariff Golf Course_060619CH152.tif
Bantry Bay and Caha Mountains from Glengariff Golf Course_060619CH152.tif �Chris Hill Photographic

Caha Mountains – the passes over Beara

Glengarriff, cork

The Caha Mountains run down the spine of the Beara Peninsula along the Cork–Kerry border, topped by 685m Hungry Hill and protected as a Special Area of Conservation for alpine plants found nowhere else in Ireland. Most visitors meet them on the road: the tunnelled Caha Pass between Kenmare and Glengarriff, and the hairpinning Healy Pass over to Kerry.

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Fastnet Rock, Twilight tour, Cape Clear Ferries, Co Cork
Fastnet Rock, Twilight tour, Cape Clear Ferries, Co Cork Courtesy Cape Clear Ferries

Fastnet Lighthouse – Ireland's Teardrop

Fastnet Rock, cork

Fastnet is Ireland's tallest lighthouse, a 54-metre Cornish-granite tower on a lone rock off West Cork and the last sight of Ireland for emigrant ships, hence its nickname, Ireland's Teardrop. You cannot land on it, but boat tours from Baltimore and Schull circle the rock; the direct trip is the pick if it is the lighthouse you are after.

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Fastnet Rock, Twilight tour, Cape Clear Ferries, Co Cork
Fastnet Rock, Twilight tour, Cape Clear Ferries, Co Cork Courtesy Cape Clear Ferries

Fastnet Rock – Ireland's Teardrop lighthouse

Fastnet Rock, cork

Fastnet Rock rises from the Atlantic as Ireland's southernmost point, crowned by a 54-metre granite lighthouse – the tallest rock lighthouse in Ireland or Britain. You can't land on it, but boat tours from Baltimore and Schull bring you close to the beacon that was the last sight of home for emigrants and the turning mark of the Fastnet Race.

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Galley Head Lighthouse, Co Cork
Galley Head Lighthouse, Co Cork Courtesy David Creedon

Galley Head Lighthouse

Galley Head, cork

Galley Head Lighthouse sits on Dundeady Island, a headland south-east of Clonakilty, and was built after 40 people drowned in the 1847 wreck of the steamer Niger. When first lit in 1878 it was the most powerful lighthouse light in the world. The tower opens only during Heritage Week, but you can stay in the two restored keeper’s cottages year-round or just visit the free viewpoint above two sandy beaches.

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Aerial view, Mitchelstown, Golden Vale, Co Cork
Aerial view, Mitchelstown, Golden Vale, Co Cork Fáilte Ireland

Golden Vale – Ireland's dairy heartland

Kilmallock, cork

The Golden Vale is the best dairy land in Ireland, a patchwork of pasture across Cork, Limerick and Tipperary that first appeared in print in 1837 as a 'golden vein' of rich soil. A 112 km sign-posted drive runs from medieval Kilmallock through Lough Gur to the Rock of Cashel, where Cormac's Chapel holds the only surviving Romanesque frescoes in Ireland. Pick up the Living Land audio CD at Kilfinane Tourist Office before you set off.

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Priest's Leap, Co Cork
Priest's Leap, Co Cork Courtesy Marie Cremin

Knockboy – Cork's highest peak

Shehy Mountains, cork

Knockboy is County Cork's highest point at 706m, a broad bog-covered summit on the Cork-Kerry border crowning the Shehy range. The usual route is a 5 km out-and-back from the Priest's Leap pass, a single-lane road climbing to 463m and named for a 17th-century priest said to have leapt his horse off the cliffs to escape soldiers. The top gives 360-degree views over Bantry Bay, the Caha Mountains and, on a clear day, the MacGillycuddy's Reeks.

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Old Head of Kinsale Lighthouse, West Cork
Old Head of Kinsale Lighthouse, West Cork Fáilte Ireland

Old Head Lighthouse – Kinsale headland

Old Head, cork

A black-and-white banded tower, built in 1853, marks the headland nearest to where the Lusitania went down, about eleven miles offshore. The catch: it sits inside a private golf course and opens to the public only a few days a year, when a shuttle runs out from the Signal Tower. The rest of the time, the coastal loop from Garrylucas beach is how most people see it.

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Old Head Golf Links, Hole 4, Razor's Edge, Kinsale, Co Cork
Old Head Golf Links, Hole 4, Razor's Edge, Kinsale, Co Cork Courtesy Old Head Golf Links

Old Head of Kinsale – cliffs and Lusitania

Old Head of Kinsale, cork

The Old Head runs two miles out into the Atlantic, ending in an 1853 lighthouse most people only see across the golf-course fence. A free 6 km loop from Garrylucas beach gives you the cliffs, the ruins of De Courcy Castle and the sea; the €5 Lusitania Museum sits at the highest point, the nearest land to where the ship went down.

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Allihies and Slieve Miskish Mountains
Allihies and Slieve Miskish Mountains Tourism Ireland

Slieve Miskish – Beara's copper mountains

Beara Peninsula, cork

The Slieve Miskish Mountains are the low red-sandstone hills at the tip of the Beara Peninsula, and their western slopes above Allihies were once Ireland's biggest copper field, worked by Cornish miners who later shipped out to Butte, Montana. Marked trails climb the peaks, Ireland's first designated bridleway runs along the flanks, and the Copper Mine Museum tells the boom-and-bust story.

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Toe Head, Castletownshend, Co Cork
Toe Head, Castletownshend, Co Cork Courtesy George Karbus, Failte Ireland

Toe Head – a signal tower and a shipwreck

Castletownshend, cork

Toe Head runs out into the Atlantic near Castletownshend, its ruined Napoleonic signal tower one of 81 built around 1804 to watch for a French invasion. Below it, a wartime EIRE sign (number 28) still marks neutral Ireland, and off the point the huge ore carrier Kowloon Bridge went down on the Stags Rocks in 1986. A coastal loop of about 3.8 km takes in the cliffs, but the edge is eroding – keep well back.

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Questions people ask

Which is actually the southernmost point, Mizen Head or Brow Head?
Brow Head, by about nine metres. Mizen Head is the most south-westerly point of the mainland and the one with the bridge, the steps and the visitor centre. Brow Head is unmanaged, with no car park, no railings and no facilities.
Can you visit the Fastnet Rock lighthouse?
You cannot land on it. Boat tours from Baltimore and Schull circle the rock, and some Baltimore trips pair the Fastnet with a landing on Cape Clear Island. If the lighthouse itself is the point, take the direct trip rather than the island one.
Which of these can I do without a long drive?
Ahakista and Kilcrohane are villages in their own right on Sheep's Head, and four Sheep's Head Way trailheads plus the Goat's Path start from Kilcrohane. Mizen Head, Brow Head and Knockboy all need a drive out, and Bull Rock needs a boat as well.
When is the best time to go?
A clear day matters more than the season. Knockboy gives 360-degree views over Bantry Bay and the Cahas only when the cloud is off the summit, and boat trips to the Fastnet and Bull Rock depend on the sea. Whales pass Mizen Head in summer.
Are any of these access-restricted?
Yes. Mizen Head is a private site and locked when the centre is closed, so check times before driving out. Old Head Lighthouse sits inside a private golf course and opens only a few days a year. Galley Head's tower opens during Heritage Week.

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