Overview
The rock under Inishglora is around 1.75 billion years old, Dalradian gneiss and schist that count among the oldest stone in Ireland, and from the water the island shines silver-green under its skin of machair and white sand. It’s a small island, barely 20 acres, lying about a kilometre off the western tip of the Mullet Peninsula in County Mayo. The last inhabitants left in the early 20th century. What draws people now is the crossing itself, the ring of early Christian ruins, and the legend that ties the island to the Children of Lir.
History & Legends
Early Christian foundation
Tradition credits St Brendan the Navigator with founding a monastery here in the early Christian centuries; sailors passing offshore once lowered their topsails to honour him. The most striking surviving structure is a roofless, Gallarus-type dry-stone chapel, its west gable still holding against the Atlantic weather. A wooden statue of the saint once stood in its north-east corner before it decayed away. By the 10th century the monastic community had shifted to Cross, near Belmullet, though the island kept the name Inishglora, or St Brendan’s, right through the medieval period.
Later monks added a men’s church (Teampall na bhFear) and a women’s church (Teampall na mBan), which may have served as an early nunnery. Scattered across the machair are cross-slabs, pillar stones and the Seven Stations of the Cross, ending at the Rock of Prayer (Cloch na h-Athchuinge) in the western half of the island. Garlic grows unusually well among the ruins; local lore says the monks planted it and that it will grow here forever.
Three beehive huts remain, penitential cells rather than churches. The largest, St Brendan’s Cell, is a circular stone chamber about six feet high. Close by is St Brendan’s Well, once roofed in the same beehive style. An old warning held that water drawn by a woman would turn to blood and fill with red worms. Tradition also has it that St Brendan cured the last male heir of the O’Malley clan by immersing him in the well, saving the family from dying out. Another old custom holds that visitors to the huts should break bread with one another.
Mythic Associations
Inishglora is bound up with the Children of Lir. After 900 years cursed to live as swans across Ireland’s lakes and seas, the four siblings are said to have come ashore here at last. St Brendan baptised them, briefly restoring their human forms before they died, and their burial sites are reputed to lie east of St Brendan’s chapel.
A darker medieval belief, recorded by Gerald of Wales, claimed that bodies left exposed on the island never decayed. While modern science has long debunked the idea, the tale still lends an eerie, otherworldly quality to the ruins.
What to See & Do
Ancient Ruins & Sacred Sites
Walking Inishglora feels like stepping into a living museum of early Irish Christianity. The paths between the chapels, cells, and cross-slabs are well-trodden but unmarked, encouraging a slow, exploratory pace. Key stops include:
- St Brendan’s Chapel: The largest dry-stone structure, perfect for understanding traditional Irish monastic architecture.
- St Brendan’s Cell: A compact, circular oratory that gives a tangible sense of ascetic monastic life.
- The Seven Stations of the Cross: Stone markers that trace a devotional route across the island, ending at the Rock of Prayer.
- St Brendan’s Well: Still holds clear water and remains a focal point for local folklore.
Wildlife & Nature
Grey seals haul out on the sandy beaches, especially in the calm hours before dawn. In summer the cliffs hold breeding colonies of guillemots, razorbills and the odd puffin, and a small flock of wild sheep grazes the machair. Inishglora is part of a Natural Heritage Area and an Important Bird Area, so bring binoculars and move quietly around nesting pairs.
Getting There
Inishglora has no pier, bridge, or scheduled ferry service. Access is entirely dependent on local boat operators and sea conditions.
- Currach trips: Traditional wooden currachs depart from the harbour in Belmullet during the summer months, and occasionally on calm days in spring and autumn.
- Best conditions: Operators typically prefer a north-westerly wind for safer landings. Always confirm availability and weather suitability before travelling.
- Tides: The landing area is a narrow sandy beach that can be completely submerged at high tide. Consult Met Éireann tide tables and aim for low or mid-tide arrivals.
Visiting Tips
- Book in advance: Currach schedules are informal and weather-dependent. Contact local operators in Belmullet or check with the town’s tourism office for the latest departure times.
- Pack essentials: There are no facilities on the island. Bring plenty of water, high-energy snacks, a windproof jacket, and a waterproof dry bag for phones and cameras.
- Footwear matters: The ground is uneven, with loose stones, slippery rocks, and damp grass. Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots with good grip are strongly recommended.
- Respect the site: As a protected heritage and wildlife area, visitors should stay on established paths, avoid moving stones, and take all waste back to the mainland.
Practical Information
- Access: Private currach only; no public transport or regular ferries.
- Opening times: Open year-round, but access is strictly weather and tide-dependent.
- Facilities: None on the island. All amenities are available in Belmullet.
- Admission: No charge to land; your only real cost is arranging the boat.
- Safety: Heed your currach operator’s advice, monitor tide times, and carry a fully charged phone in a waterproof case.
Nearby Attractions
- Wild Nephin National Park: A drive inland from Belmullet, with walking trails, blanket bog and mountain scenery.
- Inishkea Islands: The larger uninhabited islands just south of Inishglora, with a lost fishing village, a Norwegian whaling pier and grey seals.
The single hardest part of visiting Inishglora is getting onto it. There’s no pier, so you land on a narrow beach that vanishes at high tide, and boatmen wait for the right wind. Fix the boat before you fix anything else about the day; the Irish Islands website is a good place to read up while you wait for the weather.