Overview
Lough Navar Forest lies 5 km north‑west of Derrygonnelly in County Fermanagh and forms part of the Marble Arch Caves UNESCO Global Geopark. Covering 2,600 ha, the forest is a mosaic of blanket bog, heath, open water, native oak‑ash woodland and coniferous plantations. It links with the neighbouring Carrigan, Big Dog, Conagher and Ballintempo woods, creating Northern Ireland’s largest continuous forest block of over 8,500 ha. A 10 km (7‑mile) scenic drive snakes through the site, offering several designated viewpoints, picnic spots and a main car park on Glennasheever Road (BT93 3BW).
History & Heritage
Human activity in the area stretches back to the Late Bronze Age. From the Carrick Lough Viewpoint one can see the remains of an ancient crannog – a timber‑piled island farmstead that likely served domestic and defensive purposes during the Bronze Age and early Christian periods. The landscape also bears the imprint of the last glaciation: drumlin hills, limestone outcrops and the striking Magho Cliffs, a 5.5‑mile limestone escarpment that defines the forest’s southern edge. The Old Man’s Head, a sandstone outcrop sculpted by wind and rain, supports specialised upland flora and attracts butterflies such as the red admiral and speckled wood.
The forest is traversed by the Ulster Way, which climbs to 735 ft within the woods, and by the historic sweat house near the drive’s exit – a small stone structure once used for therapeutic heat therapy. Across the road from the main entrance begins the Correl Glen Nature Trail, which runs through part of the extensive Largalinny National Nature Reserve, home to rare plants and almost all the native Irish species of butterfly.
Memorials & WWII History
At the Magho Viewpoint car park visitors will find two memorial stones commemorating aircrew who lost their lives over Lough Erne during the Second World War. One marks the crash of a Sunderland bomber (W4036) of 201 Squadron RAF on 18 November 1943; the other records the loss of a Catalina (JX 242) of 202 Squadron RAF on 20 November 1944. Both aircraft operated from nearby bases at Castle Archdale and Killadeas, linking the forest to the wider wartime aviation history of the Lough Erne area.
What to See & Do
Viewpoints
- Carrick Lough Viewpoint – a short walk from the main car park leads to a platform overlooking Carrick Lough and the crannog remains.
- Aghameelan Viewpoint – offers sweeping panoramas of County Fermanagh, County Cavan and the surrounding drumlin landscape, with the limestone cliffs of Knockmore clearly visible.
- Magho Cliffs Viewpoint – perched 300 m above Lower Lough Erne, this spot provides one of the island’s most dramatic vistas, extending to counties Sligo, Tyrone, Donegal and even the Wild Atlantic Way.
Walking Trails
| Trail | Distance | Time | Ascent | Grade | Wheelchair accessible |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blackslee Waterfall Walk | 2.5 mi / 4.5 km | ½ hour | 60 m | Moderate | No |
| Lough Achork Walk | 1.5 mi / 2.5 km | – | – | Moderate | No |
| Lakes Walk | 7 mi / 11 km | 1 h 30 min | – | Moderate | No |
| Magho Cliffs Walk | 1.5 mi / 2.5 km | – | – | Difficult | No |
Blackslee Waterfall Walk – plunges into the conifer‑dominated Blackslee Forest, where a small sandstone waterfall creates a soothing soundscape. The route passes open glades scented with wood sorrel, wild garlic and spring‑time bluebells, offering chances to spot red deer, foxes and a variety of birdlife.
Lough Achork Walk – circles a tranquil lake that feeds the Sillees River. The lake’s sheltered fringe supports otters, ducks, swans and a healthy brown‑trout fishery.
Lakes Walk – a longer circuit that weaves between several small lakes and boggy clearings, ideal for birdwatchers keen on peatland species.
Magho Cliffs Walk – a more demanding route that climbs the limestone escarpment, rewarding hikers with unrivalled views over Lower Lough Erne and the surrounding counties.
Geology & Landscape
Lough Navar sits atop a plateau of Carboniferous limestone shaped by successive glacial advances. The resulting drumlin field and limestone escarpments give the forest its dramatic topography – from the gentle undulations of the blanket bog to the sheer faces of the Magho Cliffs. The area’s geology is highlighted on the visitor panels at the main car park, where interactive 3‑D models explain how the limestone, glacial melt‑waters and subsequent erosion created the present landscape.
Wildlife & Flora
The mosaic of habitats supports a rich biodiversity:
- Mammals – red deer (the only native Irish deer), pine marten, fox, hare.
- Birds – buzzard, sparrowhawk, crossbill, teal, swan and a variety of waders around the lakes.
- Butterflies – red admiral, speckled wood, peacock – especially visible on the roadside verges where late‑season cutting allows the plants to flower.
- Flora – native oak, ash, birch and beech in broad‑leaf patches; Sitka spruce and lodgepole pine in the coniferous sections; spring carpets of bluebells, wood anemones and wild garlic; upland heather, speedwell, aquilegia and scabious on the cliffs.
Seasonal highlights include bluebell displays in March/April, peak butterfly activity in May/June, and vibrant autumn colours across the bog and woodland in September.
Additional Activities
- Scenic Forest Drive – a 7‑mile (11 km) loop with multiple pull‑outs for photography, picnics and short walks.
- Cycling – the forest roads provide gentle gradients for family rides and more challenging sections for mountain bikers.
- Fishing – Lough Achork and the nearby Lough Slawn are stocked with brown trout. Anglers must hold a valid DAERA Game Fishing Permit (or a NI Direct permit) and a rod licence. The season runs from 1 March to 31 October; permits can be purchased online via the DAERA website or at local council offices.
- Forest‑bathing & Interpretation – designated quiet spots with benches and information boards invite visitors to pause and listen to the natural sounds.
- Interactive Scavenger Hunt & Reading Area – near the main car park there are panels telling the story of St Faber and a small reading nook for families.
- Butterfly & Birdwatching Hides – discreet hides at Aghameelan and Magho viewpoints help wildlife enthusiasts observe without disturbance.
Practical Information
- Parking – a small car park on Glennasheever Road (BT93 3BW) with space for cars and a few disabled bays. Picnic tables and waste bins are provided.
- Opening hours – open daily 10:00 – dusk (subject to temporary closures for forestry work; signage will advise).
- Access – the main forest drive is single‑track; larger vehicles may need to turn around at designated lay‑bys. The Ulster Way and several marked trails are signposted.
- Dog policy – dogs are permitted on most routes but must be kept under control and waste disposed of.
- Wheelchair access – the main car park and a few short, paved sections (including the Carrick Lough Viewpoint) are wheelchair‑friendly; the majority of trails are not.
Nearby Attractions
Lough Navar Forest sits within a network of forested lands. Consider adding a visit to the adjoining Ballintempo Forest for its Aghanaglack Dual‑Court Tomb walk, or head east to Belcoo and the historic Castle Archdale Country Park on the shores of Lower Lough Erne. The Marble Arch Caves themselves are a short drive away and make an excellent complement to a day spent in the forest.