Overview
The Coosmore sea cave sits about 250 metres from the trailhead, so the Pulleen Loop earns its keep in the first ten minutes. Beyond it, this 3.3 km (2 mile) circuit on the Beara Peninsula runs along firm coastal tracks and grassy field edges before returning via a stretch of cliff and more sea caves. At just 100 m of total ascent it is rated Easy and takes around two hours at a relaxed pace, starting from the small pier at Cuas Quay in Ardgroom. Blue arrows on yellow posts mark the way, so navigation is simple even on a first visit.
If you only have twenty minutes, walk out to Coosmore and back – the caves and the Kenmare Bay view are the best of it, and they come early.
History & landscape
The land you walk through has been worked and reshaped for centuries. Long before modern footpaths were laid, this coastal ridge was part of a dense network of smallholdings. The dry-stone walls that line the inland sections are the most visible legacy of the 19th-century crofting system, where families managed tiny plots to grow potatoes and oats and keep a few sheep. You pass the foundations of ruined croft houses and stone sheepfolds, left behind by a way of life that sustained rural Beara for generations.
A short detour near the trailhead reaches the Canfea stone circle (also known as the Ardgroom Stone Circle), one of the peninsula’s most significant Bronze Age monuments, dating from around 1000 BC. Nine upright stones survive from the original eleven, with a separate standing stone 6 m to the east, its uprights tapering to points.
The coastline tells a different story. The Atlantic has cut deep into the sandstone cliffs, creating the sea-cave system at Coosmore and the smaller formations at Dogs Point. On calm days the water pools inside the caves, reflecting the sky against the bright, open fields inland.
What to see & do
The loop is a continuous circuit, but you can break it into shorter strolls. Key points along the route:
- Cuas Quay trailhead – the walk begins at the harbour edge. It’s a practical spot to check tide times, as water levels affect access to the lower coastal sections.
- Stone walls & field edges – as you leave the village, the path follows a long stretch of dry-stone walling, built without mortar and relying on precise stacking. Many sections are over 150 years old and still stand against the coastal winds.
- Dogs Point – a short promontory with a tiny shingle beach and a cave entrance. The wave sounds echo off the rock face; a good place to pause and scan the water for seabirds.
- Coastal ridge – the path climbs gently to a vantage point over Kenmare Bay. On clear days you can trace the coastline across to the Iveragh Peninsula and pick out the distant MacGillycuddy’s Reeks.
- Coosmore sea caves – a series of interconnected caves, with the trail staying safely on the cliff edge so you can photograph the formations without risking your footing.
Practical information
Getting there & parking
Ardgroom sits directly on the Ring of Beara (R572). From Castletownbere, head north for roughly 14 km; the turn-off to Cuas Quay is signposted. From Bantry it’s about a 30-minute drive via the R572. Public transport is limited in this part of West Cork, so a car is essentially required.
The free car park just off the road at the trailhead holds only about five vehicles and fills quickly on dry summer weekends, so arrive early. Navigation apps sometimes direct visitors onto private farm tracks in the final approach to Cuas Quay, so follow the local road signs or a paper map for the last kilometre.
What to wear & dog policy
Beara weather changes quickly, and even in summer the coastal winds can feel sharp. Waterproof walking boots are worth it, as the grassy sections and field edges turn boggy after rain; a light waterproof jacket and a hat are sensible additions. Dogs are not permitted on the Pulleen Loop.
Visitor tips & safety
- Tide awareness – the section near Dogs Point and Coosmore is safest at low tide, as high tides can wash over parts of the lower path. Check a local tide table before setting out.
- Waymarking – the blue arrows are reliable, but download the official PDF map or save a screenshot before you leave, as mobile signal can be patchy along the ridge.
- Wildlife – spring and early summer bring seabirds to the cliffs: kittiwakes, guillemots and razorbills. Binoculars help. March through September is the best window for the walk overall.
- Photography – the best light for the stone walls and sea caves comes in the late afternoon, when the low sun picks out the texture of the dry-stone work.
Nearby attractions
If you have time to extend the day:
- Allihies Copper Mines – a short drive north, one of Ireland’s most significant industrial heritage sites, with guided tours of the 19th-century mining landscape and the preserved engine house.
- Adrigole – ‘the village of the two harbours’, with craft shops, traditional pubs and a long sandy beach.
- Ballylickey – on the shores of Bantry Bay, with cafés and broad views across the water for a relaxed lunch.
Come on a weekday morning for the trail to yourself, bring boots you don’t mind getting muddy, and time the lower path for a falling tide.